Cant find bleeder valve foe coolant system on 96

Never heard of a Bleed Valve, but I see references. You just have to burp the air out like this.

https://www.fixya.com/cars/r29872074-vehicle_cooling_system_no_heat

Hello. To 'bleed' your Buick's coolant system, open the 'bleeder valve' then start engine. Let engine 'warm' to operating temperature. Add coolant/water to reservoir tank if needed as system 'bleeds'. As coolant 'bleeds', 'forcefully' out of 'bleeder valve'; close and tighten it AND keep coolant/water level at FULL/HOT. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

The radiator might have "air pockets". They cause erratic readings at the temperature gauge. Check the system to see if bleeder valves are provided. If they exist, just open the valves allowing air out of the system while filling with coolant until coolant drips from the bleeders. If bleeder valves are not provided, open radiator cap and fill with coolant. Start the engine for about 30 seconds, check coolant level and fill to level if necesary.

Those valves sound like fuel pressure test ports. Press down the center of valve and see if gas comes out. If it does, those valves are on the fuel rail, not in the coolant system.
A bleed valve is a bit different. Looks kind of like a grease zerk, with a small hole on its little round head. You put a small wrench on the valve and turn it as if loosening it, but only a turn or two to open it and let coolant or air out the hole on the valve. Look for it on or just close to the thermostat housing.
If you have no bleed valve, best practice is to fill radiator and overflow tank, then start car with the radiator cap off, and let engine run until the thermostat opens (upper radiator hose will get hot when thermostat opens). Now turn off engine and replace radiator cap. This usually gets all the air from coolant system, but sometimes you have to do it again.

Automotive cooling system has no bleeder valve. Removing trapped air (bleeding) from the system is done by loosening the upper radiator hose with the engine running, and letting some coolant to ooze out. If the coolant coming out already has no bubbles with it, then you already expelled out the trapped air. Simply running the system with out the radiator cap will also do the trick.

not sure re American cars BUT why bother looking,just undo the jubilee clip on the bottom rad hose.(we dont have them at all on European cars).

I would take the vehicle to a garage, and have them pressure test the coolant system.
If the leak is really bad, then the coolant should spray out of the cracks and be diagnosed rather quickly by the technician.

you have a air pocket in your system you will need to get the air out of the line. if your thermostat housing has a bleeder valve on it start the car let it warm up to operating temps then crack the bleeder valve until it runs steady with coolant if you do not have a bleeder take the radiator cap off start the engine and let it run until you see the coolant flow through the radiator also do a pressure test on your coolant system to ensure that you dont have any leaks any where. or possibly even a bad head.

there should be a bleed nipple at the highest point of the water jacket
somwhere around the head

Did you replace the fan? How about the fan switch?

Here is some stuff to read about this system....please let me know what's up!


This switch is the primary controller of the operation of the radiator fan(s) used for cooling. When the coolant in the system reaches a pre-determined temperature, the fan switch closes and completes a circuit. The fans will be brought on. Generally, the switch communicates with the fan relay, although the later PGM-FI cars send the signal through one of the many solid-state controllers first. Do not assume that the switch is the only component in the radiator fan circuit which controls its operation. There are many other components whose failure may prevent the radiator fan from operating. If the fans are not working when the engine is very warm, check the fuses first.
On all vehicles except 1990-95 Accords and 1992-95 Preludes, the fan switch is located in the bottom of the radiator. On 1990-95 Accords (except V-6) and 1992-95 Preludes, the switch is located in the housing at the rear end of the coolant connecting pipe. This is the pipe running along the outside of the engine, just above the oil filter. The switch the only electrical component in the housing. On the Accord V-6, it threaded into the side of the coolant crossover pipe (not next to the bleed bolt) on the transaxle side of the engine.