1995 Subaru Legacy Logo
Balders Slackbladder Posted on Apr 06, 2009
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What oil for my 1995 Subaru Legacy 250T?

Which is the best oil for me to use in the engine of 1995 Subaru Legacy 250T?

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Anonymous

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  • Subaru Master 6,982 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 06, 2009
Anonymous
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I know I will get some argument on this one, but regardless of what manufacturers recommend, the best possible lubricant is a good synthetic. They far exceed any manufacturers needs in both lubricity long life and resistance to thermal changes. they do not burn off or form deposits readily and work in any temperature climate. as far as rating, a 10-40 or 50 works for everything. With synthetics those #s are almost a decoration on the can because in reality they cover a far larger span. Personally I would not use mobil1 (too much additive package not enough real stuff) on the other end, amsoil is one of the best (they even offer a 0w50 oil)
Whatever you use make sure you keep it clean. A good oil filter is essential and if extending oil change intervals, you can just change filter and any oil lost.
I know I've ranted, but the actual lab testing results and notes I've made over the years is far longer!
good luck whatever you decide on!

  • Anonymous Apr 06, 2009

    Side note: Ran Amsoil in a top fuel engine: fuel is nitromethane...worst stuff in the world as far as contamination goes...yet never lost a bearing due to oil problem, even when same oil was used for several passes.!!!

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Bill Hackett

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  • Subaru Master 383 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 06, 2009
Bill Hackett
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According to Subaru, below 40c (104 F) SAE 5W-30 preferred
Above -20C(-4 F) SAE 10W-30,10W-40Stick with a quality oil such as CASTROL.GTX.

  • Bill Hackett Apr 06, 2009

    An "Oh by the WAY" I would have to say I would be in somewhat agreement with thundergod on his choice of oil. I can say from first hand experience that synthetic oil will definitely make a difference in protection. There is quite a lot of discrepancy as to how long to go between changes when using synthetics. Personally, if you put raw gasoline in the crankcase, whether it is synthetic or organic, the potential for damage is there. The longer you go with the condition, the higher probability that damage or wear can occur.

    As for my personal experience:

    I, my best friend and my son race Nissan 300Z's in SCCA club racing. On the maiden voyage of my best friend's car, we ran into a problem with the engine. After a 5 hour drive to Hallett Oklahoma which is a track north West of Tulsa, in the Saturday time trials,

    he made about five laps before he experienced a massive drop in oil pressure! At an idle barely 6 psi was showing on the guage, so we killed the engine and drained the oil. What we found was a beautiful silver flake oil! We were running on Valvoline Syntech. After some discussion on the subject, we concluded that 5 hours of driving was not to go in vein! I owned a shop and would build another motor, so we'll blow this one up! I sent my son out hunting for some more Valvoline Syntech. He was gone for more than an hour and finally showed up with five qts of Amsoil racing oil. We changed the oil filter, dumped the Amsoil in and fired the engine up. We were awestruck! The oil pressure shot up to 20 psi at idle and when we would rev the engine, it would shoot to 60 psi like there wasn't a problem in the world! John ran the hell out the car for two time trials and two races. The engine never developed a knock and it never lost oil pressure. I had sponsored A Datsun 510 in a production class which was using "redline" synthetic gear lubricant in the differential. During one race, the vent tube came loose in the differential and the oil all but blew out of the differential. The differential got so hot that the back end of the car caught fire and they black flagged the car. When the car came in, the differential was glowing! After it cooled off, I expected it to turn with some difficulty. It turned as though it had just been assembled new!

  • Bill Hackett Apr 07, 2009

    There must be something unique about top fuel engines because we ran I ran one Nissan 300ZX engine for 2 seasons without having to do any repairs and after the second season, I took the engine down just to find I had wasted my time! the bottom end was like new, with no appreciable wear showing on the bearings and cylinder walls. Aside from replacement of gaskets and seals, I leak checked the valves after pulling a few and finding they too had no signs of pitting or wear. The engine which had failed initially at Hallett, was rebuilt and run on Amsoil. I took it down as well and we came up with the same findings. This is a very popular oil used in SCCA club racing and is one also accepted by Mercedes Benz!

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