Mazda 626 dies suddenly after 10 minutes running fine

I'm assuming you replaced the fuel filter when you did the pump.
You'll have to try to figure out if you are loosing fuel to the injectors or spark to the plugs to proceed.
Its possible something is failing inside the distributor among other things.
I'm also assuming you have checked the computer for trouble codes.

Are the plugs wet with fuel?
Check for spark. No spark? it may be the ignition module.

Plugs dry and spark present? No fuel?Spray a little starting fluid and see if it will run on that.
Then check pump fuses and for fuel pump noise.

fuel pump, or dying ignition parts, ie cap, rotor, plugs, wires and coil.

have you changed fuel filter or pump?

The OBD-1 two digits trouble codes listed 'code-17' as:
Oxygen sensor.

This means that the fuel and ignition systems performance are in need of attention.

1.Distributor Cap: remove the 3-bolts holding the distriboutr to its body.
2. Inspect the distributor cap for cracks, and the roror-button is not worn or broken.
3. Inspect the distributor-cap terminals are not corroded or charred. Replace if charred. Clean them out if corroded.
4. Check the distributor-rotor for cracks or corrosion on its tip, and lesser spring tension.
Replace as necessary.
5. Reverse steps 1-4 to re-install distributor cap. Be sure to remove and replace the plug wires from the old distributor-cap to the new distributor-cap one-by-one. If not, the engine would not run.

Fuel-Filter:
1. Undo the top clips holding the fuel-filter hose, and undo the lower clips also.
2. Take out the fuel-filter from its mount.
3. Replace the fuel filter as necessary.(please not the way it was mounted) Reverse removal for installation.

there is a possibility that you have a bad groung connection somewhere. your best bet is have a mechanic look at it...good luck.

For something like this it could be a number of differnet things. I suggest that the next time your vehicle cuts out on you check for sufficent ignition spark. you can do this by removing a spark plug wire from a spark plug and holding it close to a ground on the engine (or if your brave enough you can grab it lol). and if you do not have spark then i would suggest to replace the ignition coil. if you do have spark then i would check for proper fuel pressure.

Find an inductive pickup indicator for spark. Place on distributor cap to see if spark is at coil internal tower. If no spark at internal tower, look at ignition module or pickup coil. Ignition modules are prone to failure on 626's. But if you have spark at tower but not at the wire end, then your rotor is gone.

Hello, It sounds like an engine ignition control module gone out or a coil. They get hot and quit working after a short period of time, cool off then work again till they get hot.
Is the ignition system pointless electronic or does it have points? Are you getting any fire at all now to the cylinders? Does the tach in the vehicle show any RPM's during cranking? Do you have voltage at the positive side of the ignition coil? Does the coil meet the ohm ratings for that years vehicle ignition? Does the vehicle have oil in it so the oil pressure sensor allows the engine to run, this may not be an option on your particular vehicle? You can check most of this out with a volt/ohm meter. Check your voltages before starting the vehicle, during running and after it quits to see where the loss is. Just don't get near the center tap of the coil or you will get a rude awakening and/or serious injury. Good luck, RAC

The coil can develop an open when it gets warmed up. Try doing all the resistance checks on the coil when its cold and see if it passes. Run the engine till it fails and quickly check resistances again to see if open circuits exist. Otherwise, it sounds like a problem either in on-board computer or some other power module.