99 Expedition, runs rough, won't idle, no power.

Clean Throttle Body (both sides, not just what you can see) and MAF (mass air flow sensor) [spray and shake to dry].

https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+Ford+Focus.+running+rough+and+power+surges
.

Have you changed your fuel filter? When is the last time you changed your sparkplugs? Have you had any codes on the computer? Heres what I would do. First change your sparkplugs. This is a 4-6 hour job. You have to unbolt the cop(coil on plug assembly). After you change the plugs your truck will run rough. Drive it around the block then back to your house. It will take 3-5 restarts before your truck quits running rough. Reason for this is because your computer is trying to "relearn" the firing order. I have done this several times so i know what i am talking about. You can even look it up. Your 2000 expedition is a dang good truck with a great engine. After your computer relearns the firing order then the rough idle will be gone. Then I would take it out on the freeway and run it hard for 5-10 miles. If you experience a miss or two then that means you need a new cop(s). Get a code reader and it will tell you which cop is bad. Cops are expensive. I bought 6 new ones on ebay for $40. If you buy from autozone or ford dealer then you are looking at about 80-100 bucks a piece. Tell me if this helps. Ford makes a good truck and the expedition is a great truck. Mine is a 2000 expedition also. I have 248,000 miles on it and running strong with no burning oil. Good luck.

I really need to know the mileage.....?..also the question isn't very clear ...Is the whole truck shaking roughly or is the engine shaking roughly or is it both the engine and truck shaking..?..Since I am not sure I will answer what I can....Ok......If the truck is shaking while sitting still at idle the engine/trans mounts could be worn and or loose mounting hardware...If the engine is running roughly at idle causing all to shake that bad it could be a number of things causing it as usual...Quite often a faulty plug wire/and or bad plug will make it have a misfire because it will be running on only 5 cylinders..If that's the case it could be more than one bad...A vacuum leak will cause it to perform in the same manner...however all cylinders will be firing..Normally a vacuum leak is easy to pinpoint..however it could be a faulty IAC valve..(IDLE AIR CONTROL)..The idle air control is designed to hold a high idle at start up then slowly bring idle down to proper Rpm.....A faulty TPS (THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR) will also cause a rough running problem..And let's not forget the O2 sensor..(OXYGEN SENSOR)..The O2 sensor controls air/fuel mixture...and yes an exhaust manifold gasket will make it run rough but not too bad...It has a rough running sound more so than causing it to horribly shake..It will shake but not to bad..
it is located at the exhaust side of engine..The exhaust manifold is mounted to the engine exhaust port..the exhaust pipe is mounted to the exhaust manifold and the muffler/cat converter is mounted to the exhaust pipe...You can check the plug wires quickly..With engine running carefully remove plug wires 1 at a time..If the sound of engine gets worse the wire you removed is good..after verifying it is good or bad plug wire back on then pull the next wire..and so on..If you pull a wire off and there is no change in engine operation that is the bad wire..If that is the case change all plugs and wires...One at a time..(It is a good idea to make sure all wires come off easily before starting engine..old wires will come apart easily..grasp wire tightly at boot and twist left to right while pulling..)as far as the other components I spoke as well as many others,the best,easy way is to have it hooked to a scanner and they can check/test all components for proper operation...Now..If it runs good but is shaking the engine/trans mounts are worn as I stated earlier..any loose engine component will cause an engine shake also but you should notice it at a glance...engine mount bolts/nuts being loose can be tightened without changing mounts if caught in time..Trans could be coming loose.also worn clutch will cause vibration...Send more info and I can guide you to remove and replace any faulty components you may find to save you money.........Brooks/Metalpoet.....

Water dripping from the exhaust pipe is normal in cold weather until the exhaust system warms up--the water is condensation from the hot gasses meeting the cold (cooler) metal of the exhaust system.

Running rough? there are many causes, timing being one.

Have you actually checked fuel pressure, and the output of the coil ?
How good is the cap and rotor ?

change the fuel filter and check the fuel pressure

Make sure there are no vacuum leaks around the mass air flow sensor. If it won't idle when stopped, change the Idle Air Control Valve. Reset the ECU module by removing the negative battery terminal and leave it aside for ten minutes and then reconnect it.

bad injector

I would check the ends of the medium sized rubber hose that goes to the brake booster from the inlet manifold, as well as all those pesky little rubber vacuum hoses that are used for pollution control. They tend to go hard and split where they connect to the metal piping if they are over 10 years old, allowing air / vacuum leaks into the inlet manifold which upsets the idle mixture causing rough idling.

Its recommended to replace all coils at the same time you replace the plugs. I had the same problem @62000miles, changed the same part, including injectors at the ford dealer. It just got worst, I replaced all the coils and engine ran like new.