Question about 1991 Mazda B-Series
I have a 1991 mazda b2600i pickup that ran great. It was idling in the driveway and just shut off. It would not crank back up. I have replaced the coil,cap, rotor,wires,checked fuel pressure and spark and everything seems to work. Yesterday I sprayed wd 40 in the electric connector on the distributor and the truck fired up. It runs very rough and will only run a few seconds but it is alot more than it would do to begin with. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated, thank you John
Sounds like the litthe black box under the rotor button has failed. Where you sprayed the wd40. Its a position sensor to tell the cap when to fire. Used to be common on chevy but id bet thats where you need to be. Take off the cap pull the rotor and there will be two small screws golding it in. Pop it out and replace it. Could be wiring too but seing it wasnt evenmivung when it happened id bat not.
Posted on Apr 29, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like you may just have the wrong part. I'd get your money back and get the right part from Mazda. Seems like a waste to replace the whole dissy because someone sold you the wrong part.
Do the two rotor buttons you have look identical?
It may just be a dud. Take it back and tell them it doesn't fit.
Posted on Jul 22, 2009
Find an inductive pickup indicator for spark. Place on distributor cap to see if spark is at coil internal tower. If no spark at internal tower, look at ignition module or pickup coil. Ignition modules are prone to failure on 626's. But if you have spark at tower but not at the wire end, then your rotor is gone.
Posted on Aug 18, 2009
SOURCE: Mazda B2600i
are there any fault codes present? i was looking at the fuel injection diagram on autozone.com and the only thing i can see that controls injector pulse width is the pcm. are all the injectors open for 15ms? you should also check fuel pressure. if you want to look at the diagram, go to autozone.com. register and enter you car. select repair guides, chassis electrical and the wiring diagrams
Posted on Mar 30, 2010
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Engine stalls cold or RPM
fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.
This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
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