1980 Porsche 911SC Problem #1. Cuts out on freeway, then engine will start again after between five seconds and a minute Problem #2. After parking for a short while the engine will start, but dies immediately I put my foot on the gas. Then like #1. the problem goes away.

For which component or system?

At very cheap rates you can go for manuals from this store. Just check
Chevrolet Corvette

Here is the OBD2 emission system drive cycle test procedure.
Engine coolant temp must be below 70c (158f) before starting the engine for either the first or second trip
The fuel level should be less than 1/2 full
First trip:
Start engine, idle for at least 1.5 minutes
Drive 3 minutes, hold b/f schdl: 1.5-2.0 msec, selector lever "3rd" eng rpm 1,800-2,000 A/C switch:ON Hold the recommended b/f schdl range. Allow road speed to vary as necessary.
Drive at 55-65 mph for 1.5 min b/f schdl 2.0-3.2 msec, selector lever "5th" Engine rpm 2,200-3,000
IGN "off" for at least 10 seconds (not more than 5 min)
Dive at 50-60 mph for 3 minutes Selector lever "4th" keep engine speed above 3,000 rpm Allow speed to vary if necessary. Do not decelerate for more than 3 consecutive seconds. A/C switch ON.
Drive at a steady state cruise of 53-58mhp b/f schdl more than 1.8 msec selector lever "5th" eng rpm 2,400-2,600
Downshift to "4th" and decel more than 5 seconds without breaking, then idle for 1 minute.
Drive two minutes b/f schdl less than 2.0 msec Accelerate to 41 mph, decelerate to 34 mph, accelerate to 41mph. Do not completely release the accelerator. A/C switch off.
Idle 1 minute in park or neutral
Drive two minutes Steady state cruise at 31-44 mph. Selector lever "4th" A/C switch OFF. Hold the accelerator pedal as steady as possible. Allow speed to change if necessary.
End of first trip. Turn the key off the begin the second trip.
Second trip:
Start engine, idle for at least 1.5 minutes
Drive 3 minutes, hold b/f schdl: 1.5-2.0 msec, selector lever "3rd" eng rpm 1,800-2,000 A/C switch:ON Hold the recommended b/f schdl range. Allow road speed to vary as necessary.
Drive at 55-65 mph for 1.5 min b/f schdl 2.0-3.2 msec, selector lever "5th" Engine rpm 2,200-3,000
IGN "off" add four gallons of fuel
Dive at 50-60 mph for 3 minutes Selector lever "4th" keep engine speed above 3,000 rpm Allow speed to vary if necessary. Do not decelerate for more than 3 consecutive seconds. A/C switch ON.
Drive at a steady state cruise of 53-58mhp b/f schdl more than 1.8 msec selector lever "5th" eng rpm 2,400-2,600
Downshift to "4th" and decel more than 5 seconds without breaking, then idle for 1 minute.
Drive two minutes b/f schdl less than 2.0 msec Accelerate to 41 mph, decelerate to 34 mph, accelerate to 41mph. Do not completely release the accelerator. A/C switch off.
Idle 1 minute in park or neutral
Drive two minutes Steady state cruise at 31-44 mph. Selector lever "4th" A/C switch OFF. Hold the accelerator pedal as steady as possible. Allow speed to change if necessary. I especially like the part where they want you to add four gallons of fuel. Not three gallons, not five gallons, four gallons. Gotta love those Nissan engineers. ...and of course they state that if the trace is not followed exactly (i.e. you botch the acceleration/deceleration) you have to start all over again from scratch

TAKE THROTTLE BODY INJECTION CLEANER AND CLEAN THE THROTTLE BODY WORKS EVERYTIME!?

WHEN YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY THE ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEMS PCM LOSES IT MEMORY INCLUDING ENGINE IDLING.THE COMPUTER WILL HAVE TO RELEARN THE OPERATING VALUES. IF CAR DOES A LOT OF STALLING AT STOP LIGHTS AND STOP SIGNS. GO BY FORD DEALERSHIP LET THEM REPROGRAM THE PCM.PROBABLY CHARGE YOU $35.00 DOLLARS. TO REPROGRAM PCM.

If the motor gets hot and cuts off and will not start for a period of time the problem would be the crank sensor. The sudden cut off and starting right back up can be due to dirty battery cable connections. Remove them from battery and clean all three of them with a wire brush and replace both bolts.

sound like ignition module problems.it act up when engine is warmed up.

There are three buttons, let's call them 1, 2, and 3, from left to right.


Clock
Time setting

A. 12 AM, PM or 24.00 h
With the clock in the time readout mode, keep
button (2) depressed for 4 seconds -12 AM, PM
or 24.00 flashing. After pushing button (1), either
a 12-hour (AM + PM) or a 24-hour setting
program can be selected. If you only want to
change the display mode, push button (3). The
clock then returns to its normal timekeeping
function.

B. Hours
Push button (2) a second time - hour display
flashes. Set hour by pushing button (1). After
pushing button (3)*, the clock returns to the time
readout mode with new hour setting.

C. Minutes
Push button (2) once more - minute display
flashes. Set minute by pushing button (1). Upon
pushing button (3)*, the clock is started -
accurate to within 1 second.

Stop watch function
The stop watch can only be set in motion if the
clock is in its normal timekeeping mode and not
during setting operations.
A. Push button (3) - 00:00 display appears;
B. Push button (1) - stop watch is on;
C. Push button (1) a second time - watch stops.
(Additional times can be added by pushing button
(1) again - stop watch keeps running. Push button
(1) once more to stop timing.)
D. Push button (2) - 00:00 display appears;
E. Push button (3) - normal timekeeping mode.

If button (3) is pushed during operation A and
B, the setting procedure must be restarted
(push button (2)).

check in the truck area where fuel pump relays and wires are.something is loose look at fuel pump relays and fuses see if they all the way in place.

HI

I'd definitely check the fuel pump, had a similiar fault with mine, all seemed ok until upon closer inspection there was a hairline facture around the inlet pipe on the pump which was drawing in air and losing the pressure in the fuel system