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Anonymous Posted on May 12, 2017

Timing chain tensioner

Replaced the chain as the tensioner went to pieces. I installed the new stuff and it ran great for 2 weeks. It died slowly started knocking and pinging and losing power. Took the cover back off to discover that the new chain wasn't riding over the tensioner evenly. The chain was running off the edge of the tensioner.only on one end . My question is can I shim one side of tensioner? This seems to look like the only solution. And would this also cause car to lose all power? I think so, but another opinion would be good

1 Answer

kelly

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  • Pontiac Master 616 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 10, 2018
kelly
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Joined: Feb 23, 2015
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If you have two guides check and see if you got them on the right sides

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 320 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 05, 2009

SOURCE: Car not running on all cylinders

the first thing that comes to mind is ignition system faults. Are the spark plug wires connected properly, in the right firing order? Has work been done on the distributer, or the engine head, recently? Ignition timing can be 180 degrees out, and the engine will still run, sometimes. If it is not the ignition system, the next most likely culprit is the head gasket, which seals the head to the block of the engine. If this gasket is breached seriously, it can cause a cylinder(s) not to fire. Is there water in the oil, as evidenced by a thick, white foam? Is there oil in the coolant? Either of these are symptoms of a leaking head gasket. 
Basically, one cylinder isnt firing for one of a number of reasons. The most common cause is an igntion fault. This will cause the engine to feel and sound "lumpy", and the power would be greatly reduced. The best way to find the cylinder which is responsible is quite simple but care must be taken. Firstly if you hate electric shocks as much as I do, find a proper pair of electricians insulated pliers, and even some decent rubber gloves if you can aswell. Start the engine, and one at a time, use the pliers to remove a lead from the top of one spark plug, if the engine almost stops, or gets worse in any way, it is not that piston which isnt firing. Repeat the proccess, one at a time, you will know which piston ISNT firing when you remove the plug lead, and there is no change in the engine sound, this is your defective cylinder. Its just a case then of looking at the condition of the spark plug and asessing the cause of the misfire before carrying out repairs. BEWARE:- THE LEADS WHICH CONNECT TO THE SPARK PLUGS CARRY SEVERAL THOUSANDS OF VOLTS - HENCE RUBBER GLOVES AND INSULATED PLIERS 

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demonsm

Ot Tap

  • 253 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 06, 2009

SOURCE: 2002 Grand AM GT

FUEL PUMP GOING OUT.

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 30, 2009

SOURCE: car starts run's 3 seconds shuts down

Your car is equipped with a system called PASSKEY standard on all GM cars and light trucks, try the following procedure to reset the system, the battery being dead will trigger the system.

PASSKEY LOCKOUT RESET GM CARS 1999 UP
1) Put the key in the ignition and turn to the "ON" position. Leave it that way for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes turn the key and take it out. Repeat this process (2) more times (3 times, 30 minutes total) This should reset the passlock system to recognize your key.

raj somaiya

  • 5370 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 25, 2011

SOURCE: 1998 sunfire 2.2 rattling/knocking noise

There are many other possibilities that are to be checked, other then timing chain and chain tensioner:--- 1) Loose timing chain, bad timing chain tensioner.
2) Bad lifter.
3) Bent valve.
4) Improper timing (piston striking valve).
5) Bad wrist pin.
6) Spinning or corroded rod bearing.
7) Spinning or corroded main bearing.
8) Excessive piston to bore clearance.
9) Excessive bearing to journal clearance, main or rod.
10) Failing oil pump

ALSO it could be a loose flywheel/flexplate bolt.could be lifter knock, or it could be Injector tick. injectors are more noticeable at idle, and lifter knock is all the time loud, unless it's doing it from oil pressure drop, and it might go away with RPM.As you mentioned in your case, that noise disappears at high rpms. ---------- This troubleshooting will help, to locate exact fault paret causing this noise.Thanks.Helpmech.

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 11, 2012

SOURCE: Car wont stay running, even with foot on the gas.

You could also check the fuel injector wires,sometimes they come loose if the clip broke somehow

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0helpful
1answer

Why does it jump time?

It sounds like you may need a timing chain tensioner.
I looked on e-bay and found a kit which includes an "upgraded" tensioner, and includes all the pieces, for only 60 dollars.
God bless your efforts.
0helpful
1answer

1997 Kia Sportage Misfire on Cylinder 3

run a compression test on all cylinders to rule out head gasket or burned valve.
0helpful
1answer

How do i reset the timing on 2001 2.7l concorde if the chain was replaced and the timing is off

Did you take pictures while removing the originals? It's always a good habit. Below are the instructions you need to follow. Your own pics are very helpful when doing a big job like this.
  1. Disconnect negative battery (1) cable.
  2. Drain cooling system.
  3. Remove upper intake manifold.
  4. Remove cylinder head covers, crankshaft vibration damper, and timing chain cover.
CAUTION: When aligning timing marks, always rotate engine by turning the crankshaft. Failure to do so will result in valve and/or piston damage.
117014297

  1. Align crankshaft sprocket timing mark to mark on oil pump housing (2). The mark on oil pump housing is 600 ATDC of #1 cylinder.
CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and the cylinder heads are still installed, DO NOT rotate the camshafts or crankshaft without first locating the proper crankshaft position. Failure to do so will result in valve and/or piston damage.
117016938

  1. Remove primary timing chain tensioner retainer cap (2) and tensioner (1) from right cylinder head.
117016939

  1. Disconnect and remove camshaft position sensor (4) from left cylinder head.
  2. Remove timing chain guide access plugs (3) from cylinder heads.
NOTE: When camshaft sprocket bolts are removed, the camshafts will rotate in a clockwise direction.
  1. Starting with the right camshaft sprocket, remove the sprocket attaching bolts. Remove camshaft damper (1) (if equipped) and sprocket.
  2. Remove left side camshaft sprocket attaching bolts and remove sprocket.
  3. Remove lower chain guide (7) and tensioner arm (8).
  4. Remove the primary timing chain (5).
  5. Remove crankshaft sprocket (6).
INSTALLATION
117016940

  1. Inspect all sprockets (4,9,11) and chain guides (2,5,10). Replace if worn.
  2. For crankshaft sprocket installation procedures Refer to CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET.
  3. If removed, install right and left side short chain guides (11). Tighten attaching bolts to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .
  4. Align crankshaft sprocket timing mark to the mark on oil pump housing (3).
NOTE: Lubricate timing chain and guides with engine oil before installation.
  1. Place left side primary chain sprocket onto the chain so that the timing mark is located in-between the two (plated) timing links (1).
117016941

  1. Lower the primary chain with left side sprocket through the left cylinder head opening.
NOTE: The camshaft sprockets can be allowed to float on the camshaft hub during installation.
  1. Loosely position left side camshaft sprocket over camshaft hub.
  2. Align timing (plated) link to the crankshaft sprocket timing mark (3).
  3. Position primary chain onto water pump drive sprocket (10).
  4. Align right camshaft sprocket timing mark to the timing (plated) link on the timing chain (8) and loosely position over camshaft hub.
  5. Verify that all chain timing (plated) links are properly aligned to the timing marks on all sprockets.
  6. Install left side lower chain guide (2) and tensioner arm (5). Tighten attaching bolts to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .
NOTE: Inspect O-ring on chain guide access plugs before installing. Replace O-ring as necessary.
  1. Install chain guide access plugs to cylinder heads. Tighten plugs to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) .
NOTE: To reset the primary timing chain tensioner, engine oil will first need to be purged from the tensioner.
117016942

  1. Purge oil from timing chain tensioner using the following procedure:
    1. Place the check ball (2) end of tensioner into the shallow end of Special Tool 8186 (3).
    2. Using hand pressure, slowly depress tensioner until oil is purged from tensioner.
117016943

  1. Reset timing chain tensioner using the following procedure:
    1. Position cylinder plunger (4) into the deeper end of Special Tool 8186 (3).
    2. Apply a downward force until tensioner is reset.
NOTE: If oil was not first purged from the tensioner, use slight finger pressure to assist the center arm pin of Special Tool 8186 to unseat the tensioner's check ball.

CAUTION: Ensure the tensioner is properly reset. The tensioner body (4) must bottom against the top edge of Special Tool 8186 (3). Failure to properly perform the resetting procedure may cause tensioner jamming.

NOTE: Inspect the tensioner O-ring (2) for nicks or cuts and make sure the snap ring (1) is correctly installed, replace as necessary.
117016944

  1. Install the reset chain tensioner (1) into the right cylinder head.
  2. Position tensioner retaining plate (2) and tighten bolts (1) to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.) .
117016945

  1. Starting at the right cylinder bank, first position the camshaft damper (1) (if equipped) on camshaft hub, then insert a 3/8 square drive extension with a breaker bar into intake camshaft drive hub. Rotate camshaft until the camshaft hub aligns to the camshaft sprocket and damper attaching holes. Install the sprocket attaching bolts and tighten to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .
  2. Turn the left side camshaft by inserting a 3/8 square drive extension with a breaker bar into intake camshaft drive hub and rotate camshaft until the sprocket attaching bolts can be installed. Tighten sprocket bolts to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.).
  3. Rotate engine slightly clockwise to remove timing chain slack, if necessary.
117016946

  1. Activate the timing chain tensioner by using a flat bladed pry tool to gently pry tensioner arm towards the tensioner slightly. Then release the tensioner arm. Verify the tensioner is activated (extends).
117016947

  1. Install camshaft position sensor (2) and connect electrical connector.
  2. Install the timing chain cover, crankshaft vibration damper, and cylinder head covers.
  3. Install upper intake manifold.
NOTE: After installation of a reset tensioner, engine noise will occur after initial start-up. This noise will normally disappear within 5-10 seconds.
  1. Fill cooling system.
7helpful
3answers

AT WHAT MILEAGE SHOULD A TIMING CHAIN BE REPLACED IN A 2001 FORD ESCAPE?

There is no specified mileage. Timing chains last a lot longer than timing belts and the rate at which they wear can depend more on the frequency of oil changes and engine use or abuse. The general rule of thumb most shops go by now; if it's getting noisy, then it's time to pull the timing cover. Often times it's not the chain itself, but the chain guides that have failed. Either way, a timing chain job will involve new guides, tensioner, and chain. It's an expensive job, no need to rush into it unless you know you have something coming apart and noise is your first indicator.
1helpful
1answer

I have a 96 Marquis no power and blowing vacuum lines.

U TIMING CHAINS HAVE JUMPED, I AM 100% SURE ON THIS
1helpful
1answer
5helpful
1answer

How to change oil pump in 4.7

Here you go:

1. Remove the oil pan and pick-up tube.

2. Remove the timing chain cover.

3. Remove timing chain and tensioners.

4. Remove the four (4) bolts, timing chain tensioner and oil pump.

5. Position the oil pump on the crankshaft and install two (2) mounting bolts.

6. Position the primary timing chain tensioner and install the two (2) remaining bolts.

7. Tighten the pump and tensioner retaining bolts to 21 ft lbs in the sequence shown in attached photo.

8. Install the secondary timing chain tensioners, chains, cover, pick-up tube, and oil pan with new gasket.

See the photo below. Hope this helped and best wishes.

bd3b588.jpg
3helpful
3answers

Timing belt replacement

From what you're describing here, the timing belt wasn't installed properly to it's timing marks from the start. You mentioned it ran rough when you got the car back. That immediately told me the timing marks were not correctly lined up. If the belt wasn't tensioned correctly, the belt will gradually start retarding itself to the point of it not running. You did mention that as well already too. In other words, the belt slowly got looser and looser until the valves were not opening/closing at the correct time and eventually the piston hit the valve due to the lack of the tension of the belt not being correct. I really fail to beleive that the tensioner went out "all of a sudden" especially right after the water pump was installed. The reason it is recommended that the timing belt be replaced at the time of the water pump is antifreeze/coolant will SLOWLY deteriorate the belt causing premature wear. This doesn't happen in a week either, this take a long time to happen. My professional opinion is the timing belt was incorrectly re-installed when the water pump was replaced. I've been in the auto repair business for a very long time (28 years) and I have seen this very thing happen when the customer tries to replace the timing belt or water pump themselves especially when there was a lack of experience.
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