Replaced the chain as the tensioner went to pieces. I installed the new stuff and it ran great for 2 weeks. It died slowly started knocking and pinging and losing power. Took the cover back off to discover that the new chain wasn't riding over the tensioner evenly. The chain was running off the edge of the tensioner.only on one end . My question is can I shim one side of tensioner? This seems to look like the only solution. And would this also cause car to lose all power? I think so, but another opinion would be good
SOURCE: Car not running on all cylinders
the first thing that comes to mind is ignition system faults. Are the spark plug wires connected properly, in the right firing order? Has work been done on the distributer, or the engine head, recently? Ignition timing can be 180 degrees out, and the engine will still run, sometimes. If it is not the ignition system, the next most likely culprit is the head gasket, which seals the head to the block of the engine. If this gasket is breached seriously, it can cause a cylinder(s) not to fire. Is there water in the oil, as evidenced by a thick, white foam? Is there oil in the coolant? Either of these are symptoms of a leaking head gasket.
Basically, one cylinder isnt firing for one of a number of reasons. The most common cause is an igntion fault. This will cause the engine to feel and sound "lumpy", and the power would be greatly reduced. The best way to find the cylinder which is responsible is quite simple but care must be taken. Firstly if you hate electric shocks as much as I do, find a proper pair of electricians insulated pliers, and even some decent rubber gloves if you can aswell. Start the engine, and one at a time, use the pliers to remove a lead from the top of one spark plug, if the engine almost stops, or gets worse in any way, it is not that piston which isnt firing. Repeat the proccess, one at a time, you will know which piston ISNT firing when you remove the plug lead, and there is no change in the engine sound, this is your defective cylinder. Its just a case then of looking at the condition of the spark plug and asessing the cause of the misfire before carrying out repairs. BEWARE:- THE LEADS WHICH CONNECT TO THE SPARK PLUGS CARRY SEVERAL THOUSANDS OF VOLTS - HENCE RUBBER GLOVES AND INSULATED PLIERS
SOURCE: car starts run's 3 seconds shuts down
Your car is equipped with a system called PASSKEY standard on all GM cars and light trucks, try the following procedure to reset the system, the battery being dead will trigger the system.
PASSKEY LOCKOUT RESET GM CARS 1999 UP
1) Put the key in the ignition and turn to the "ON" position. Leave it that way for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes turn the key and take it out. Repeat this process (2) more times (3 times, 30 minutes total) This should reset the passlock system to recognize your key.
SOURCE: 1998 sunfire 2.2 rattling/knocking noise
There are many other possibilities that are to be checked, other then timing chain and chain tensioner:---
1) Loose timing chain, bad timing chain tensioner.
2) Bad lifter.
3) Bent valve.
4) Improper timing (piston striking valve).
5) Bad wrist pin.
6) Spinning or corroded rod bearing.
7) Spinning or corroded main bearing.
8) Excessive piston to bore clearance.
9) Excessive bearing to journal clearance, main or rod.
10) Failing oil pump
ALSO it could be a loose flywheel/flexplate bolt.could be lifter knock, or it could be Injector tick. injectors are more noticeable at idle, and lifter knock is all the time loud, unless it's doing it from oil pressure drop, and it might go away with RPM.As you mentioned in your case, that noise disappears at high rpms.
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This troubleshooting will help, to locate exact fault paret causing this noise.Thanks.Helpmech.
SOURCE: Car wont stay running, even with foot on the gas.
You could also check the fuel injector wires,sometimes they come loose if the clip broke somehow
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