Temp gauge point on motor, temp gauge not working. hi there i have an 52 plate nissan navara crew cab d22 2.5 tdi and the temp gauge keeps going up and down like a yoyo fitted a new temp gauge sender in the engine and no change what so ever when the engine is on idle its fine as soon as you rev it up it goes down to cold let off and it comes back up have you got any ideas please many thanks

SOURCE: 2004 nissan frontier crew cab radio

the plastic around the gear shifter will pop up with a good pull, then turn it side ways to get over the shifter, then there are 2 screws the hold the bezel down around the radio and air vents, then just pull from the air vents it will pop off to reveil the screws to the radio

SOURCE: removal of stereo

there are 2 screws down at climate controls remove them and whole panel pops off, stereo is held in with 4 screws facing you. but it looks bad with a generic stereo fitted nissan have a cd changer that fits in above the stereo where the cup holder is and hooks up to stereo and looks good, not overly flashy,
good luck

SOURCE: navara d22 on 53 plate missing at 2.500 r.pm and

i had a similar problem it turned out to be a neuteral selecter sensor located on the gear box

SOURCE: 1997 Nissan hard body pick-up 2.4 won't idle and blows smoke

it soubds like you have a vacum leak problem listen for a "his" with the engine running. you may want to take apiece of hose @2-3ft long put one end at you ear and probe arround the top of the engine arrount the intake manafold and any hoses when you find the his find wher it goes and replace repair the hose. it may also be your pcvvalve thst is stuck it willcome out of the top of your valve cover and plug right the intake hose right before the throttle body

SOURCE: my nissan navara D22

Hi james, you might have air in your injection system. ussually this air pocket could be corrected by bleeding the system; or, your fuel filter is clogged. First the filter, if your fuel filter is directly attached to a hand pump, and your filter has a sendimentary bleed port at its bottom, drain this first. Then, after its drained, close the drain plug. Next is to look for the fuel return bolt on the injection pump(usually it has a "out" word etched on it) and usually uses a 17mm hexagonal head. Loosen the bolt and slowly remove it. Take care, and watch orientation of the two copper washers that are used for gasket. You might also find a filter screen attached to the bolt on some injection pumps. Anyways, if there is no filter screen, re-screw in the bolt(remember the copper washers) but do not tighten it just let it loose for a while. Now for the sweaty part, using the hand pump, pump  the fuel in until the return bolt spits out fuel. You will see bubbles on the first few pumps but do not stop until it bellows out pure and clear fuel w/o bubbles. If you attained the goal, stop pumping and screw the bolt shut. Wipe-off excess fuel from the injection pump. Try starting the engine. when the engine turns over let it warm up for a while the with, again, with your no. 17mm open wrench, try loosening the injector feedline one at a time(while the engine is running).Watch out for squirting fuel, your engine might rattle a little but it will be fine, just let the fuel flow a few seconds then re-tighten the nut. Do this on all 4 injectors. Let the engine run a few minutes then shut it down. Let it completely cool down then re-start it. Also try checking glow plug(or heater plug) condition. If one glow plug is busted replace all 4 at the same time with the same brand. this would help to keep the engine attain a 1-click engine run.

Hope this helps.