My caprice runs to fast...

it needs service
not told./
1: cranks fast? GRRRRGRRRRR (sound for 14 years heard)
2: cranks okay but will not start or stay running (the engine)
3: engine seems ok but runs but all GEARS PRNDL
R
D and L are dead.
they all ran perfect before. but not today.
if engine is and RPM go real high in D(drive) and R (reverse)
that is called transmission failure and and can be simple or hard $$$

tell more get more , telling the blind.

my guess is the gearing , that reverse has is very low.
and with lower gearing a weaker engine can run
id bet you if you use your right foot, on the throttle as you
go to drive, it will move, or use L gear.
the sputter, is not related to the transmission
Sputter is gross misfiring of the engine, 4.0L?? what engine?
and the top cause of that. is not getting a tune up.
spark plugs. ever do those in 10 long years.'
or spark wires>?
filters, fluids and spark? a tune up.
the Jeep runs a map sensor, so does not sputter with air leaks.
the jeep IAC can stick. and not hold an idle ,in drive.
but you can with a fast right foot, if not , its gross misfire for sure.
your right foot is not gas its air
when you press the throttle you add air and the EFI matches air with fuel. in that order
so if it still sputters, is not the lack of air. see?> spark is next,.

for 100 years folks avoid tuneups, is that you? the classic cause?

It could be your starter,i had one on a ford torino years ago that did the same thing and it was a faulty starter

Don't know cars - but it might not be idling fast enough to make the gear change. Idle reset needed maybe?

These trucks are famous for fuelpumps going bad, the bearing s noise may be pinging due to a lean fuel mixture because the fuelpump is not putting out enough pressure, the engine is starving for gas, the first thing i would do is have the fuel pressure tested, if the pressure is low then replace the fuelpump, hope this is helpful, good luck.

sounds like a motor mount is bad. does the motor kick back hard when putting in drive or reverse? if so you need to change the bad motor mount.

So I'm guessing that when you put it in reverse and it won't move. If you put it in 1st it moves but won't shift to 2nd? And it rattles. And since you have a 4.9 in it the transmission is a 4T60E. I am going to guess that you broke the reverse reaction shell in the transmission.

When you start your car, you step on the gas and turn the key, you have set the high idle feature on the carb as part of the warmup sequence. When you step on the gas again, you kick high idle off ...if premature, the engine is cold and it runs ruff, and wikll likely stall under some circumstances until you have reached operating temp. The reason for the ruffness ...is gasoline becomes 'gas' better when the engine is at operating temp than when the engine is cold.

Your battery is getting tired. When you step on the gas and the lights get brighter, it is because you are running the alternator at a higher speed and you are making more electricity which the lights are more than happy to gobble up.

Keep in mind your car is notonly a Caprice Classic ... it is a classic, 26 year old vehicle. It needs a little more TLC than a newer model.

If you are set on using this engine for its increased power and fuel efficiency, the only way you will realize these benefits is by changing the ECM/PCM from the engine donor vehicle to yours, put the 90 model engine's throttle body back on it, use the engine wire harness from the donor vehicle--in other words, the engine has to think it's still in the Caprice, and the only way to do this is to put the Caprice electronics and fuel management system (throttle body) back on it. If you have to modify the throttle linkage, the kick-down/TV cable, to make it work, then do it. Also, you will have to put an Oxygen sensor from a 90 Caprice into the manifold/collector/crossover pipe of your vehicle, and not one for the 87 truck. If it wont fit, plug the factory hole on your truck's Oxygen sensor location with a threaded plug using high-temp thread sealant, cut/weld in a proper-threaded orifice for the Oxygen sensor from a 90 Caprice. If the Caprice had two Oxygen sensors, you will have to put one on each cyclinder bank's exhaust outputs.
Swaps such as these are great if all the details are attended to, but headaches if you just try to throw and go.
If you do all this, the codes will not come back after you reset them, the engine will run great, you will have better power and greater fuel economy (the Caprice and the Blazer weigh within a couple hundred pounds of each other), and you will have a 1987 K5 Blazer which "thinks" it's a 1990 Caprice.
And remember when buying engine parts in the future to tell the counter guy "It's for my other car--the 1990 Caprice."
You get less **** out them that way.

There could be a vaccum diagram in the engine under the hood. IF not I would go to Alldata,com. The get the information from them. The dealer might be able to provide a copy of it,