1999 mazda 626 4 cyl was driving and when going into higher gear the rpm's would jump high and not go into gear then later that day car just died down and would not go up a hill was still running though.now she is cranking but not firing over. check engine light did not come on, ran diagnostic tool and no codes on computer. replaced fuel filter, have spark on plugs. help have little money and need my car back on the road
Jeff has the best answer.
Check fuel pressure at injector rail. Also verify transmission fluid level.
SOURCE: '98 Mazda 626 Died and will not start again..HELP
b_bro
Check the Fuel injection system (injectors) and the intake manifold. It might also be wise to check the alternator as well as the starter coil and also the electronic distributor
SOURCE: Mazda mx3 6 cyl ,94
1. adjust engine timing
2. change spark-plugs
3. 14 y.o. cars may have trouble in their high tension wires, change it
SOURCE: mazda 626 2.2L replaced head
I can think of two possible causes:
1 - Assuming you are getting spark at the plugs, the distributor may be reinstalled 180 deg off.
2 - Unlikely but - Assuming you are getting fuel into the cylinders, the fuel injector connectors were reinstalled improperly and are firing out of sequence. If you are not getting fuel into the cylinders, it's something else.
SOURCE: 1991 Mazda 626 DX dies suddenly after running for 10 minutes.
Hello, It sounds like an engine ignition control module gone out or a coil. They get hot and quit working after a short period of time, cool off then work again till they get hot.
Is the ignition system pointless electronic or does it have points? Are you getting any fire at all now to the cylinders? Does the tach in the vehicle show any RPM's during cranking? Do you have voltage at the positive side of the ignition coil? Does the coil meet the ohm ratings for that years vehicle ignition? Does the vehicle have oil in it so the oil pressure sensor allows the engine to run, this may not be an option on your particular vehicle? You can check most of this out with a volt/ohm meter. Check your voltages before starting the vehicle, during running and after it quits to see where the loss is. Just don't get near the center tap of the coil or you will get a rude awakening and/or serious injury. Good luck, RAC
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