Transmission problem Hi all. I have VW 1999, 1,8 turbo gassoline, with automatic (tiptronic) transmission. Transmission sistems works well but only from second position to third position it transmisses roughly, very sensitively. I've allready changed transmission oil but it did't effected. what should i do? I hope i don't need a new transmission

SOURCE: vw vento 1996 automatic transmission problem

most likely the valve body or the TCM

SOURCE: i have vw passat 1999 1,8 turbo gassoline and it's

go to mechanic and let him to do at least error codes reading

SOURCE: Type of transmission oil for 2001 VW PASSAT

the trans fluid can only be serviced through a standpipe in the pan with car in the air and trans at an exact temp,<needs to be on a monitor computer> it also uses special fluid not any of the normal fluids. this fluid is suposed to be "lifetime" fluid that doesn't need servicing unless there is a leak or a trans failure.

SOURCE: Doesn t the New Beetle need tranny oil change

I just "serviced my tranny with the assistance from a VW tech. It is indeed a closed system, yes it needs to be serviced and do't let anyone tell you that changing the filter is not necessary. Whatever you do, DON'T, I repeat DO NOT put regular automatic fluid in this tranny!!! You will be buying a new tranny if you do. This tranny take a "special" European fluid that cost about $17 USD a liter. It takes three and one half liters. I would buy five just to "flush" the system.
To start, the engine and tranny must be cold, let it set over night. A lift is almost a must have. remove the tranny skid plat (four bolts) then the tranny pan (four bolts) have a catch pan ready. after allowing the fluid to drip, remove the filter and the O-ring (it will probably stay in place after you remove the filter and is a orange/red color) clean the area with a bit of brake clean. replace filter and pan, not the skid pan yet. remove the drain plug, you should have located it by now. it should take an Allen wrench. On the front of the tranny you will see a refill plug, it has a snap lock, that you will probably break. after removing the lock you can remove the plug. take a length of hose, 5/16th I think, place in the refill hole, run it up to the top of the engine and put a funnel in the tube. I found it easiest to hang the funnel with the tube from a bunge chord attached the underside of the hood. pour in three liters, this will take a little while. Yes, the plug is still out. after you have pour in three liters, start the car. leave it in park or neutral. Allow the car to come up to temperature, you know you have reached this point when the cooling fans have come on twice. Let the fans come on then go off and come on again. now the car should be high enough to see under but low enough to reach your funnel/hose that is still attached. Drain plug still out, car up to temp, height just right, now pour in more fluid. After about another half a liter, you should start to see the fluid dribbling out (into a catch pan). I pour an additional liter through mine to flush it, although this is not mandatory. leave the car running throughout this process. after you have poured at least four liters into the tranny and yes some will leak out, with car still running re-insert and tighten the drain plug. Turn the car off, replace the skid pan, remove the hose, replace the refill plug and lock (you did buy a new one when you bought the filter and oil, right?) if not just zip-tie it in place. Clean up the mess and DRIVE. congratulations, you just serviced you own tranny and saved two hundred bucks!

SOURCE: i have vw passat 1999, 1,8 turbo gasoline,

These cars use a Bosh 5.3 ABS module that is prone to failure. You have several options:

First, have it rebuilt. There are dozens of rebuilders on ebay. I haven't tried any of them, but they charge anywhere from $100 - $200. You have to remove the module yourself and send it in.

Your second option is to have VW do the work. They will sell you a complete ABS module/pump/solenoid setup (which VW insist cannot be sold separately). The total cost for parts for option 2 is about $1600 (plus labor).

Your third option is to try and find a working ABS module in a wrecking yard. I did this, but the wrecking yard went through three modules before they found one that worked and that was the right PN. You'll need to know the PN of the entire ABS pump/module assembly. This cost me about $200, but I have a spare pump now (yay).

Your fourth option is to try and find a new ABS module without the pump. A few online vendors have them, but they're about $500.

Finally, you can just give up on it and live without ABS.

So, here is how to remove the module:
1. Raise your vehicle and remove the driver's front tire.
2. Remove a few of the torx screws that secure the front fender lining.
3. Pull the fender lining out of the way.
4. Remove the windshield washer reservoir (you need to do this for clearance, I think it is only held in by 3 bolts, and is the only reason for steps 1, 2, and 3).
5. Remove the power steering fluid reservoir (just unbolt it and move it aside for clearance -- don't remove the actual hydraulic fluid lines from the reservoir).
6. Disconnect the ABS connector. There are actually 2 of them - one on top of the module and one on the bottom.
7. Remove the 6 torx bolts that connect the control module to the ABS pump.

Some of the process is illustrated here (although, they cheat and do half of the steps with a module that is already removed from the car):
http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=Bosch_5.3_ABS_Removal

There is no risk of fluid leaking and you can continue to drive your car (once you put the wheel back on). There are also instructions on how to rebuild the unit yourself, but don't try to do it unless you are REALLY good with a soldering iron. A microscope would also be helpful.