Changed nearside rear wheel hub xj6 sport

Question edited for clarity and add maker. changed funky
'(letter)- space-comma-letter 'CLUSTER ,STILL NO SPEEDO'.
Question moved to Model Category.
Please don't type in all CAPS, it is considered SHOUTING and is harder to read.

Your problem is the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). No idea why you would think it was the cluster or have anything to do with the ABS! Just take it to a professional.

The most common reasons a Ford Explorer Sport Trac speedometer isn't working are the vehicle speed sensor (VSS), a faulty speedometer, or an electrical issue. Search our network of RepairPal Certified shops near you to speak with a technician about your issue. The rear wiper may stop working.

Ford Explorer Sport Trac Speedometer Is Not Working

Videos as well

https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+Ford+SPORT+TRAC.+The+SPEEOMETER+NOT+WORKING

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Can you also you feel the pulsation in the steering wheel or the body of the car? If it is in the steering wheel then recheck the work that you did. Make sure that the hubs are clear of rust and torque the wheel nuts when putting the tires on.
To check if the rear are bad you can while driving down the road, lightly apply the emergency brake. If you feel the pulsation in the body then it is the rear brakes.
One last test that I have done is clamp off one brake caliper at a time using a clamp on the rubber line and seeing where the pulsation is coming from. Also if the antilock system is engauging there will be a pulsation in the pedal.

Close but not quite.
ECU handles tacho not speedo.
Speedo has it's own pickup usually on rear wheel hub or hall sensor on output shaft if not flexible cable direct drive from front wheel

You have a wheel speed sensor that is not working correctly. The ABS computer is losing the signal from the wheel speed sensor and interprets this as a wheel locking up, so it is going into antilock mode. When it does this on dry pavement when it is obvious that there is no wheel actually locking up it is called "false Antilock Mode" or "Overactive Antilock Mode". This is a pretty common problem on several vehicles.

The system on your Blazer uses wheel speed sensors which are an integral part of the front wheel bearing and hub assembly to determine wheel speed for the front wheels. It uses the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) to determine rear wheel lock-up. The VSS data is shared between the Body Control Module (BCM), the Vehicle Control Module (VCM), The Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Transfer Case Control Module (TCCM) and the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM - AKA "Antilock Module").
The problem is MOST LIKELY being caused by a front wheel bearing being loose (pretty common) which will require replacement of the front wheel bearing and hub assembly. However, it can also be caused by the VSS or a breakdown in communication between any of the modules that share the VSS data.

If you have either of the front wheel bearings making noise (growling or whining) then that is almost positively the cause of your problem. However, if it cannot be determined this way, the computer network will need to be scanned to find out which it is.

The abs speed sensor is on the rear diff. as you read. Your truck may have 2-whl antilock or 4-whl antilock brakes. The sensor on the rear costs about $40. Sometimes it can be easy to replc. if not too stuck, but take care not to crack it or drop pieces into the rear end. inspect the wires for loose or broken connections. Now if the code is for wheel speed sensors on the front hubs, then it will be over $100 each.

4-Wheel Drive

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
   
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   • Negative battery cable
     
   • Rear wheel
     
   • Rear brake shoes
     
   • Rear halfshaft nut and loosen the halfshaft from the hub
     
   • Wheel hub and place it in a vise
     
   • Inner wheel bearing race from the hub
     
   • Antilock Brake System (ABS) sensor bracket and move the sensor aside, if equipped
     
   • Parking brake cable from the steering knuckle
     
   • Brake line from the wheel cylinder and support the knuckle
     
   • Lower shock absorber nut
     
   • Lower ball joint by holding the ball joint stud
     
   • Upper ball joint
     
   • Coil spring while noting the location of the insulator
     
   • Steering knuckle cam
     
   • Steering knuckle
     
   • Snapring and press out the outer wheel bearing race from the knuckle
     

     Rear hub and bearing
     Click to Enlarge

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   • New wheel bearing into the steering knuckle
     
   • Snapring to the knuckle
     
   • Wheel hub
     
   • Steering knuckle cam and hand tighten the bolt
     
   • Coil spring
     
   • Shock absorber lower nut. Torque the nut to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) for 2002-04 models; 129 ft. lbs. (175 Nm).
     
   • Upper ball joint. Torque the nut to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
     
   • Lower ball joint. Torque the nut to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Align the steering knuckle cam and torque the bolt to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
     
   • Brake line to the wheel cylinder. Torque the brake line bracket bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and the brake line fastener to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
     
   • Parking brake cable to the backing plate. Torque the bolt to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
     
   • ABS sensor bracket. Torque the bolt to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm), if equipped
     
   • Halfshaft nut. Torque the nut to 214 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).
     
   • Brake shoes
     
   • Rear wheel
     
   • Negative battery cable
     
2. Fill and bleed the brake system.
   
3. Check and adjust the wheel alignment as needed.
   

2-Wheel Drive

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
   
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   • Negative battery cable
     
   • Rear wheel
     
   • Rear brake drum
     
   • Wheel hub nut
     
   • Wheel hub
     
   • Inner wheel bearing race from the hub
     
   • Snapring
     
   • Wheel bearing outer race from the knuckle
     

     Rear hub and bearing
     Click to Enlarge

     Rear hub removal
     

     Inner wheel bearing removal-rear hub/bearing
     

     Rear wheel bearing removal-2wd
     

     Rear wheel bearing removal-4wd
     

To install:
Install or connect the following:

• Wheel bearing in to the knuckle
  
• Snapring
  
• Wheel hub into the wheel bearing
  
• Wheel hub nut. Torque the nut to 214 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).
  
• Brake drum
  
• Rear wheel
  
• Negative battery cable
  

  Rear wheel bearing installation
  
  hope this helps if so send testimonial comment or even any other questions you have
  

Seems that your speed sensor (mounted on the differential housing) has a defect. See Haynes how to check it.

I HAD THIS PROBLEM WITH MY JAG ITS A FUSE OR A RELAY PHONE CHRIS AND ASK HIM HE WILL PUT YOU RIGHT 07718759675 / 01914874717

try unpluging your battery cables for 10 to 15 mins.for the comp to reset.itself.