Starts & idles fine. Stalls when coming to a stop or slowing down to make a turn only after it is warmed up. RPM drops below 500 and seems a bit unstable, only when decelerating. This does not happen until it is warmed up. Runs perfect when engine is cold. Any help for poor me?
If you are still having the problem after all of these important steps already suggested, then take a closer look at some of the other possibilities. Normal tune up things like Cap & Rotor can cause problems at low RPM that are camoflaged at higher RPM. Vacume leaks cause straing problems that are hard to locate. To clean the Air Flow Sensor has solved similar symptoms for me. I use a spay cleaner designed for Air Flow Sensor cleaning and try to avoid touching the wire with anything that could damage it.
Also the oxygen sensor on the exhast manifold feeds info to the computer. Changes at the exhaust changes the air-fuel mixture going in.
Could also be a problem right at the throtle valve controling the air flow. There is a set srew there that adjust the valve to a correct position when closed for air to travel through some specific ports. This screw is not the idle adjustment screw that many are used to on carborators. If this is not set properly then the air does not flow correctly through the valve that gets pulsed to controll the idle speed. There is also a sensor located on the throtle valve the informs the computer of the position of the throttle. If not set properly, or broken, then the computer does not realize that the throttle was suddenly closed and compensate for that. It just continues to work off of the oxygen, air-flow and other sensors to adjust the mixture, when infact the flow has been reduced to nearly 0 and it takes a moment for it to adjust.
Suspect distributer needs replacing. common to find brown dust from bearing going.
go here
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/
2 things to check. You IAC, Idle Air Control could be plugged. It allows air to pass at idle when the throttle plate is closed. During cold start, the IAC has another solenoid that provides additional air until engine is warm.
here is IAC:
Section 03-14: Engine Controls, Electronic
1996 Villager Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
When the engine (6007) is running but not at idle, the throttle valve controls the amount of air admitted into the engine. The powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) increases the fuel injection output in proportion to the increased airflow to achieve the appropriate air/fuel ratio.
During idle, the throttle valve is almost fully closed. It is therefore necessary for the idle air control system to supply air for combustion during idle. The idle air control (IAC) valve allows a metered amount of air to enter the intake manifold (9424). The camshaft position (CMP) sensor detects engine speed and sends a signal to the PCM. The PCM sends a duty cycle (On/Off) signal to the IAC valve which allows additional air to enter the intake manifold. Air is added by the IAC valve to maintain the set lowest idle speed at which the engine can operate.
The idle speed adjusting screw allows adjustment of the airflow into the intake manifold. 
Now for the distributor thinking. Inside the distributor is an optical sensor ofr the camshaft position sensor. It reads the slots in a metak wheel under the rotor to determine fuel injection timing and also sends a signal to the PCM to control the IAC mentioned above.
To check it pull the cap iff the distributor and remove the rotor (1 screw) and see if there is brown dust all over the place. If yes, the bearing is going and the distributor needs replacing. Ebay has the best price for a reman one. If no brown dust, it is ok.
go to the site I gave you and look at the files and photos. We are experts on the Villager/Quest vans, I worked on the villager program.
I would clean the MAF sensor wires with carb cleaner and a toothbrush gently. The wires can get coated with varnish and then the computer makes the car run lean. Try that first. Then disconnect the battery for 2 hours to clear the computer memory. Then drive for 10 miles to relearn the changes.
The reason I said distributor is because the camshaft sensor is in the distributor and not replaceabe by itself. If brown dust gets on the optical sensor for the can sensor, it will cause those issues too. Brown dust comes from a filing distributor bearing.
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SOURCE: stalling
Do this.
Here are some of the causes of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
SOURCE: Stalls when stopping & decelerating
It sounds like the TPS throttle position sensor isn't working correctly. You need to find out what your fuel pressure is. If it's below specs., a new fuel pump will be needed.
SOURCE: air stops blowing through the vents when accelerating
u have a loss of vacuum to the ac mode control switch, this switch applies vacuum to diff vacuum motors to move air to diff outlets, dash, floor, defrost etc. either the vacuum line or vacuum resivior at the engine is leaking or the mode control is leaking vacuum.
SOURCE: MY 91 HONDA ACCORD ACCELERATES AND DECELERATES BY ITSELF
sounds like a bad fuel sensor on the throttle body i had the same problem...u can find the throttle body with sensor at the junk yard for about $40... 30-45 min easy fix also replace the gasket....
Here are the most common causes of idle surge, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake
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This solution makes no sense at all. If it was the distributer, it would run the same whether warm or cold. It runs PERFECT when engine is cold. It is a sensor of some type, probably in the emissions system. I have cleaned the contacts on the throttle position sensor (suspect), but to no avail. Any other solutions? Thanks in advance. (My mechanic had shoulder surgury and will be out for some time)
Thanks snorlelbobby. I went to the site, signed up and searched every way but loose. Please tell me what to search for. I can't seem to get any info or pictures. Your help will be greatly appreciated. Poor Richard
Thanks for the great info snorkelbobby. I have gone to the site, signed up and searched every way but loose, but I can't seem to get any info or photos. Please tell me what to "search" on the site to find your info. Thanks a lot djrwayne.
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