Question about Toyota Cars & Trucks
I have a 1985 Toyota Cressida that stops running without warning. Then it will not start for hours, but when I have it towed home, it starts up right after rolling off the tow truck. When the problem first started it would go weeks between shut downs. Now it will start and run fine for a few minutes and then die. It will not start for a day or so, then start up like nothing is wrong and die a few minutes later. I have replaced the fuel pump and filter twice. When the car dies, there is voltage at the fuel pump, so I do not think it is the pump or pump relay(s). Also when the engine is not running, it will fire up with starter fluid, but dies after it burns off the starter fluid. So I do not think it is an ignition system or timing issue. At this point I am pretty sure it is injectors, but I do not know how to trouble shoot it. The periodic nature of the problem bothers me. This has been going on since November 2012. Everyone has told me that I should just junk the car an buy a new one, but we cannot afford to do that. Please help!
Check voltage at the injectors with key on. Voltage should always be available to injectors with key on. When the ecu grounds the injector circuit internally, for a split second, the injector will pulse, spraying fuel. You can buy a "noid" light to test injector circuit, one that fits your injector connector. To test, you crank the engine over, noid light should be blinking.
Or, use a test light and check injector drive circuit. With key on, one injector terminal should have constant battery voltage-test light should be lit bright. Now move ground clip of test light to the POSITIVE battery post, and probe the other injector terminal, the one that did not light the test light. Have someone crank the engine-if injector circuit is working, the test light will be blinking, indicating the ecu is grounding the injector circuit.
If no voltage to injectors, the drive circuit and wiring needs checked. If no ground signal, the wiring and the ecu needs checked.
Posted on Jul 07, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hello, It sounds like an engine ignition control module gone out or a coil. They get hot and quit working after a short period of time, cool off then work again till they get hot.
Is the ignition system pointless electronic or does it have points? Are you getting any fire at all now to the cylinders? Does the tach in the vehicle show any RPM's during cranking? Do you have voltage at the positive side of the ignition coil? Does the coil meet the ohm ratings for that years vehicle ignition? Does the vehicle have oil in it so the oil pressure sensor allows the engine to run, this may not be an option on your particular vehicle? You can check most of this out with a volt/ohm meter. Check your voltages before starting the vehicle, during running and after it quits to see where the loss is. Just don't get near the center tap of the coil or you will get a rude awakening and/or serious injury. Good luck, RAC
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
SOURCE: 1989 Dodge Raider
If you are getting power to anything else (such as the interior light) then this isn't your fix but, I had a similar issue where by 88 Raider ran fine but then would quit. I tested the battery and it was fine. However, the connectors for the battery were bad and weren't holding tight. I found it by pushing on the battery and one of the terminals just lifted off. Lucky is better than good sometimes.
Posted on Oct 20, 2009
Fuel injected or carb? Make sure fuel line itself is clear. Some pumps are designed to self regulate (carb systems) some continually pump and a psi regulator sends back the excess fuel back to the tank (fuel inj systems) If the line is obstructed then pump can't deliver fuel fulltime.
If you think pump is not on consistent, try running a dedicated wire through a switch directly to the pump. If it works then you are looking for an electrical fault going to pump. Good luck.
Posted on Mar 10, 2010
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