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Fuel injectors not working

I have a 1985 Toyota Cressida that stops running without warning. Then it will not start for hours, but when I have it towed home, it starts up right after rolling off the tow truck. When the problem first started it would go weeks between shut downs. Now it will start and run fine for a few minutes and then die. It will not start for a day or so, then start up like nothing is wrong and die a few minutes later. I have replaced the fuel pump and filter twice. When the car dies, there is voltage at the fuel pump, so I do not think it is the pump or pump relay(s). Also when the engine is not running, it will fire up with starter fluid, but dies after it burns off the starter fluid. So I do not think it is an ignition system or timing issue. At this point I am pretty sure it is injectors, but I do not know how to trouble shoot it. The periodic nature of the problem bothers me. This has been going on since November 2012. Everyone has told me that I should just junk the car an buy a new one, but we cannot afford to do that. Please help!

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  • Martin Slack Jul 08, 2013

    By the way, as part of my shotgun approach to trying to fix the problem, I recently replaced the inline fuel filter and the gas cap. I have triple checked to make sure I got the fuel filter in the correct orientation and I have tried starting the engine without the gas cap on. Neither seems to change the end result.

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  • Toyota Master
  • 5,527 Answers

Check voltage at the injectors with key on. Voltage should always be available to injectors with key on. When the ecu grounds the injector circuit internally, for a split second, the injector will pulse, spraying fuel. You can buy a "noid" light to test injector circuit, one that fits your injector connector. To test, you crank the engine over, noid light should be blinking.
Or, use a test light and check injector drive circuit. With key on, one injector terminal should have constant battery voltage-test light should be lit bright. Now move ground clip of test light to the POSITIVE battery post, and probe the other injector terminal, the one that did not light the test light. Have someone crank the engine-if injector circuit is working, the test light will be blinking, indicating the ecu is grounding the injector circuit.
If no voltage to injectors, the drive circuit and wiring needs checked. If no ground signal, the wiring and the ecu needs checked.

Posted on Jul 07, 2013

  • Martin Slack Jul 08, 2013

    Thank you for your suggestions. I tried what you said plus one more thing and I am more confused than ever. When I check the two terminals of the #2 Injector, both show 12.2 VDC when the key is in the on position. The test light lights up on both terminals when the lead is connected to the engine, and it also lights up on both terminals when the lead is connected to the positive battery terminal. Although I can hear a relay click when I make contact between one of the terminals and the positive battery terminal, but not so with the other. Also one terminal reads constant 12.2 VDC when cranking while the other causes my auto meter to read 0.2 to 0.4 VDC during cranking.

  • montehammons Jul 08, 2013

    That is confusing. I'm afraid a toyota expert will have to sort that out for you. 1985 is early on in electronic fuel injection, maybe toyota had a different way to work injection. Guess you will have to consult a wiring diagram.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1665 Answers

SOURCE: 93 celica won't start

If your battery is more than three years check liquid level . measure its voltage to maintain over 12.5 volts. If not replace it.

Posted on Sep 14, 2008

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SOURCE: 1995 Chrysler Concorde

the alarm is activating when he locks it and for some reason the key or fob isnt deactivating it..check the disarm switches in the door

Posted on Oct 01, 2008

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SOURCE: 1991 Mazda 626 DX dies suddenly after running for 10 minutes.

Hello, It sounds like an engine ignition control module gone out or a coil. They get hot and quit working after a short period of time, cool off then work again till they get hot.
Is the ignition system pointless electronic or does it have points? Are you getting any fire at all now to the cylinders? Does the tach in the vehicle show any RPM's during cranking? Do you have voltage at the positive side of the ignition coil? Does the coil meet the ohm ratings for that years vehicle ignition? Does the vehicle have oil in it so the oil pressure sensor allows the engine to run, this may not be an option on your particular vehicle? You can check most of this out with a volt/ohm meter. Check your voltages before starting the vehicle, during running and after it quits to see where the loss is. Just don't get near the center tap of the coil or you will get a rude awakening and/or serious injury. Good luck, RAC

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 Dodge Raider

If you are getting power to anything else (such as the interior light) then this isn't your fix but, I had a similar issue where by 88 Raider ran fine but then would quit. I tested the battery and it was fine. However, the connectors for the battery were bad and weren't holding tight. I found it by pushing on the battery and one of the terminals just lifted off. Lucky is better than good sometimes.

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

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SOURCE: 1995 nissan pickup truck fuel problem

Fuel injected or carb? Make sure fuel line itself is clear. Some pumps are designed to self regulate (carb systems) some continually pump and a psi regulator sends back the excess fuel back to the tank (fuel inj systems) If the line is obstructed then pump can't deliver fuel fulltime.

If you think pump is not on consistent, try running a dedicated wire through a switch directly to the pump. If it works then you are looking for an electrical fault going to pump. Good luck.

Posted on Mar 10, 2010

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