Engine start then stalls

SOURCE: car wont start or starts and runs for apr 10 secs then dies

Hmmm.....Thing's to check..
1) check for loose connection's @ the dizzy, the coil, and alternater
2) fuel injecter's
3)Check for vacuum leak's around the inlet manifold/ throttle body
4) check air control valve.


Join up on www.imoc.co.uk, we have a very knowledgable mk1 section who will be able to go thru all possible causes and get you back on the road. ;-)

SOURCE: 2001 Toyota Corolla Check Engine Light

You cannot guess with these cars,these vehicles have a lot of sensors and actuators can can go bad at anytime, here is my suggestion take your vehicle and to Auto_zone and have them check the codes, they will be able to tell you what they mean. ITS FREE.. then get back to me if you need more help.

SOURCE: 1986 toyota 4runner fuel delivery

check the fuel pressure regulator

Tony

• 23 Answers
• Posted on Mar 10, 2010

SOURCE: toyota echo 2001 Mnl

Ok, before I give you a suggestion, I want to let you know that I'm not an expert on cars or anyhting, but I have been focred to fix A LOT of problems with my vehicles over the years to save money, and this is a situation I ran into twice. Once on a 1994 Buick Skylark Coupe, and another time on a 1992 Chevy Corsica. What I learned is that if you hook jumper cables up to your car and it starts, there is USUALLY one of two things wrong with it. Either you have a dead battery (which you don't because it's new), or you have a bad alternator. Because the car stays running after it's jumped, everything points to a bad battery or battery connection. Have you tried replacing the connectors on your battery cables? I know it sounds like a shot in the dark, but I've tried that before out of desperation and it has worked. I'm pretty sure your alternator is ok, or your car would die when the red positive jumper cable was removed, so I'd replace the connectors on the battery calbes in your car, especially if you have never replaced them before. If that doesn't work, if it was me, I'd take it in and have it looked at. Like I said, I'm not an expert by far, so I can only trouble-shoot to a point. Hope this helps, or at least gives you something to try.

SOURCE: 94 camry. 2.2 fed emissions.

Before we both knock ourselves out with fuel injector testing. Hook up a Digital voltmeter (DVM) to upstream O2 sensor and lets see how she is burning. Remember positive lead of DVM to signal wire and negative lead to ground. Anything above 550 mV is rich anything below 350mV is lean. Be mindful that an exhaust leak the size of a pin hole in this region can cause a rough idle. A healthy reading should bounce between 550mV and 350 mV.
Next to test is O2 is working block off air in take making mixture rich and see what O2 says about it . Then pull off a vacuum hose (a lean condition) and see if DVM drops to 200to 300mV's.
Keep me posted.