Steering locked cannot turn wheels

Bad tie rods that are not steering the wheels but let the wheels lag behind your steering efforts. You can also have a bad ball joint(s) that do the same thing as bad tie rods.

Start with the rear. Most likely a brake problem. 2 things to look at. First the emergency brake cable. Make sure the cable is kind of loose. If not it is locked/rusted and applying the brake. Gets worse as you drive. Cut them close to the brake or replace them. Next is the rear brake hose/s. To check this, if the brakes are tight, release one of the brake bleeder valves. If it releases the brakes, replace the hose. Hard steering could be the power steering pump or gear box, or bad ball joints. This you'll have to look at the steering linkage. Ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm. Any of these look really rusty at the connection. Could be a problem. Look at the steering shaft also. There is a u joint that rusts up and will cause hard spots when turning. Gear boxs usually get sloppy. Power steering pumps start to whine when going bad.

with the front wheels of the ground remove the outer tie rods from the knuckles. Turn the knuckles by hand. Do they move freely? if not than the upper or lower ball joint are binding.

With the tie rod end still disconnected turn the steering wheel to the left. Does it still bind up? If so you probably have a bad steering gear box.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

It depends on exactly which ball joint of the 3 per side your changing, but here are the details.

COMPRESSION LOWER ARM & LATERAL LOWER ARM ASSEMBLIES
Removal
1. Loosen compression lower arm ball joint nut. Using steering linkage puller, separate ball joint and
knuckle. Remove nut, bolts and compression lower arm assembly. Remove dust cover.
2. Remove stay. Remove shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Loosen lateral lower arm ball
joint and knuckle nut. Using steering linkage puller, separate ball joint and knuckle. Remove nut, bolt and
lateral lower arm assembly. Remove dust cover.
Inspection
Using preload socket, ensure breakaway torque for compression lower arm ball joint is 4-22 INCH lbs. (0.5-2.5
N.m) for 2000 models. On 2001 models, breakaway torque is 22-54 INCH lbs. (2.5-6.1 N.m). Ensure
breakaway torque for compression lateral lower arm ball joint is 13 INCH lbs. (1.5 N.m). Check compression
lower arm, lateral lower arm, dust covers, and bushings for damage and wear.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Use NEW ball joint nuts. Lubricate lip and inside of dust cover with
multipurpose lubricant. Using installer, install dust cover. Check front wheel alignment.
UPPER ARM ASSEMBLY
Removal
Using steering linkage puller, loosen upper arm ball joint and knuckle nut. Remove self-locking nut. Remove upper arm and upper arm shaft assembly. Remove dust cover.
Inspection
Using preload socket, ensure breakaway torque for upper arm ball joint is 3-13 INCH lbs. (0.3-1.5 N.m).
Replace upper arm assembly when measured value exceeds specification. Check upper arm, dust cover, and
bushings for damage and wear.
Installation
1. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use NEW self-locking nuts. Lubricate lip and inside of dust cover
with multipurpose lubricant. Using Ball Joint Installer (MB990800), install dust cover.
2. Ensure upper arm shaft assembly is installed at indicated angle. Verify upper arm shaft
assembly installation. Check front wheel alignment.

Once you have the correct arm off and a replacement joint (if available, some are not serviceable and require the arm to be replaced) then you will need a press or a ball joint press to change the joint. Such as
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46389

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66958

or http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46967

Removal & Installation NOTE This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.

1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
   
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
   
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   • Tire and wheel
     
   • Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
     
   • Outer tie rod retaining nut
     
   • Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
     
   • Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
     
   • Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
     
   • Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
     
   • Lower ball joint retaining nut
     
   • Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
     
   • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
     
   • Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
     
4. Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   • Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
     
2. Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
   
   • Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
     
3. Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
   
   • Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
     
   • Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
     
   • Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
     
   • Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
     
   • Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
     
   • Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
     
   • Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
     
   • Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
     
   • Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
     
   • Tire and wheel
     
4. Lower the vehicle
   
   • Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
     
   • Wheel center cap, if removed
     
5. Check the front wheel alignment.
   

Your truck is built with electronic power steering assist, meaning there is an electric solenoid on the power steering pump and a steering wheel position sensor on the bottom of the steering column. Have it checked for codes first.

The position sensor causes weird problems.

The steering gear can also bypass fluid to the wrong side of the valve. When the yank happens is the steering wheel in about the same place?

Be careful when driving the truck until you get it fixed.

sounds like either the camber or caster is off on your alignment or possable you got your steering gear box adjustment too tight .. this will cause it to not return to center.. thanks and holler if you have more..

here is a step by step instructions on how to replace your bearing. please copy and paste the link into your browser for an image.

please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.

Removal & Installation

1. Apply the brakes and hold in place.
   
2. Raise the vehicle.
   
3. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
   
4. Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring washer from the hub nut.
   
5. While the brakes are applied, loosen and remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft.
   
6. Release the brakes.
   
7. Remove the front disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the steering knuckle.
   
8. Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench.
   
9. Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113.
   
10. Remove the tie rod heat shield.
    
11. Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.
    
    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
    
12. Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.
    
    NOTE Use caution when separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal does not get cut.
    
13. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle.
    
    NOTE Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the joint from separating during this operation.
    
14. Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering knuckle.
    
    NOTE The cartridge type front wheel bearing used on this vehicle is not transferable to the replacement steering knuckle. If the replacement steering knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle. Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must be done before installing the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
    
15. If the wheel bearing and hub need removal. Do not reuse the wheel bearing.
    http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/32050/images/32050_ptcr_g0035.gif The separation of the ball joint and the knuckle
    

To install:

1. Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
   
2. Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
   
3. Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
   
   CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
   
4. Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes . Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (53 Nm) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
   
5. Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench. To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud.
   
6. Tighten the nut to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter.
   
7. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it.
   
8. Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm)
   
9. Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut. Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut.
   
10. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
    
11. Lower the vehicle.
    
12. Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification.
    

1.It isn't a lower or upper ball-joint, lower ball-joint, nor tie-rod end. A lower ball-joint being bad, would make the front-end shake. Upper ball-joint, and tie rod ends being bad, would make steering erratic.

Sounds more like the problem is in the steering box. In all actuality, it almost sounds like the power steering pump wasn't changed. Are you sure it's a new, known, good pump?

The only way I know of to bleed a power steering system is to turn the steering wheel from lock to lock (all the way to one side and then turn all the way to the other side) 3 or 4 times. that will bleed all the air out of the system. You might have had a leak for a longer than that you realized and by fixing the hose the power steering works VERY good and you are no long used to how easy it once worked.