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Frank ODonnell Posted on Jun 27, 2013
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Overheating brakes I replaced the brake booster the combination valve fully loaded calipers the brake hoses the master cylinder bled the brakes numerous times on the front wheels only.The rear brakes are drums.And have RWAL ONLY.The rotors where also resurfaced.Still after all of this the calipers are still clinching the rotors so tight that the brakes overheat extremely.Particularly the right side caliper.When it's hot the wheel can't be turned by hand without a lot of force.Can the RWAL system cause front wheel lock up ? That seems to be the only thing thats left.

  • Frank ODonnell Jun 27, 2013

    There are so many different suggestions on the bleeding sequence
    that it difficult to know which is correct.The Haynes Repair manual says start with the RWAL while other suggests to start with the wheel furtherest away from the Master cyl. The master cylinder does not have a bleeder and I really don't see a bleeder on the antilock valve either But I did bleed it through the lines connection.I bled the wheel cylinders with a vacuum bleeder and I bled the RWAL and Master the conventional way a number of times But if i am getting something wrong I am willing to do it all again.Professionally,there must be some way to know when it's right other than driving the vehicle because each time the brakes over heat it will do some damage to the rotors.

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Vinson Liu

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  • Expert 72 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 08, 2013
Vinson Liu
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Joined: Jun 30, 2013
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I think the problem is the brake pad or caliper, brake pad are too thick or the caliper are not good casted.
First try to confirm if you get a right brake caliper ,then confirm the brake disc ,brake pad, if they all ok, tear down the bracket of caliper, put into brake pad, then put into brake rotor.
http://www.fiverhope.com/category-4-b0-Brake-caliper.html

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Sam Akber

  • 1149 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 28, 2011

SOURCE: 1999 Ford E350 van problem:

Good question, on the antilock system is a bleader too and bleade it the same way you bleade the caliper. After all is done adjust the rear brakes, they should have a drag to them.

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Anonymous

  • Posted on Sep 16, 2011

SOURCE: Brake pedal goes nearly to

I would go with not bled correctly

The booster should hold up with a hard pedal until
you start the engine, then vacuum causes it to move
down when pressing on the brake

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Brake problem I changed my brake booster master cylinder brakes an calipers an hoses on 97 chevy tahoe brake lights stay on an locks my front brakes up

Not an unusual problem and it is mostly caused by the maladjustment of the brake pedal linkage and the failure to ensure there is a clearance between the booster pushrod and the master cylinder piston.
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Overheating brakes front calipers.

what is the year ,make and model.? does it have abs brakes
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2001 Silverado 2500 HD Why Rear brakes don't work after I installed new hydro-boost power booster, master cylinder, calipers, and pads. I bled master cylinder before installing, and brakes beginn

Hello Patricia,

Have you checked the master brake cylinder reservoir for brake fluid loss?

I don't suspect the master cylinder as you have replaced it... but am more suspect of a leaking brake line or fitting which should have
been discovered when you had the system bled.

The only time I ever had a rear brake problem with a 2500 series Chevrolet was due to seized rear brake caliper guide pins...as your calipers are also new that is not your problem.

If your brake pedal feels spongy and travels to the floor board you have air in the system, a brake fluid leak or a failure in the power steering system, such as a broken hose, broken power steering pump drive belt, or failed pump, would result in a loss of pressure to both the hydro-boost and steering.

Find more information here:

. Hydro Boost Power Assist Systems Operation Diagnosis and Repair
5helpful
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Brake pedal goes nearly to floor front pads, calipers, brake hoses changed, rotors turned Master cylinder changed, brake booster check valve changed rear brakes checked, drums good no ridge, shoe's...

I would go with not bled correctly

The booster should hold up with a hard pedal until
you start the engine, then vacuum causes it to move
down when pressing on the brake
0helpful
2answers

I have very little rear brakes on my 91 w350. the shoes are fine and so are the wheel cylinders. I have recently replaced the master cylinder and had the system power bled at a shop. Is it the...

I assume you bled the rest of the system. If so check your rear adjustment. Adjust the parking brake at the same time. If no fix, then open up your rear brakes and inspect the hardware, cylinder/caliper, and adjuster. Only after all that would I suspect the proportioning valve. Ways to test that vary vehicle to vehicle. Good luck!
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Install new brake pads and rotors all 4 wheels. Replaced front 2 calipers. Bled brakes. New clean fluid coming out. pedal is still soft and goes to floor. 200 Seebring.

Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.
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I have a 92 chrsy. 5th ave with no antilock brakes. just base brakes with rear drums. replaced master cly. due to leaking and replaced all the brake lines and hoses. i have good streams of fluid from all 4...

When you bleed the brakes are you starting with brake furthest from the master cylinder? Also was the master cylinder bench bled? If everything there is okay and you are not getting any air in fluid stream, you could try bleeding the brakes by having some one slowly pump the pedal till it is firm. Then have them let off open first bleeder valve and slowly depress to floor and hold there untol the valve is closed. repeat this at all bleeders. You may want to have car running to do this. Try this and let me know.
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No brakes 94 Nissan pickup

Hi

You sound like you are having fun !...............Not !

Brake Clamp, off all the brake hoses, and see if pedal returns ?

What have you done to the rear brakes, is the adjustment correct ?

I suspect your problem may be in the master cylinder area.?

Possibly the little rod behind the master cylinder ?

When you bled it, did the brake fluid pump out merrily ?

Let me know your thoughts !

John

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