Was reading multi miss fire codes on 4 out of 6 cylinders. changed plugs , wires, and coil pack then read 5 out of 6 miss fire. put injector cleaner in and now the miss fire codes are gone and it reads circuit to high or low on the tps sensor, map sensor, and engine coolant temp sensor. car starts and runs really sluggish then dies. 2003 dodge grand caravan sport 3.3l.

SOURCE: engine stalls

your on the right route but also check egr valve

SOURCE: 1997 buick lasabre custom

It sounds like you have a vacuum leak or intake gaskets leaking. Try this. Start the engine and let it reach the idle it want to go to. Get you a can of Brake Clean and spray it around the intake manifold (it on the top center of the engine, you may have to removed a plastic cover) If the engine idle changes up or down then the intake gaskets are leaking hence your vacuum leak. I hope this will help you.

Dave C

• 1050 Answers
• Posted on Mar 14, 2009

SOURCE: 2003 grand am 3.4 code p0304

More likely a plugged injector as that code is specific to cylinder # 3 These engines are also very prone to failed intake manifold gaskets and stuck valve lifters. I think I'd start with a compression test, if that's good, go injector. If the compression is bad, you've got a can of worms. Hold off on the O2, I don't think it's related.

SOURCE: code reads P0340 Camshaft position Sensor circuit

That makes the computor think the timing is off. Replace the sensor and see if that does it. You will then have to have the code cleared (erased) or the light will come back on/stay on.

SOURCE: 2005 dodge grand caravan 3.8L

Ouch! A case of the raucous rodent! I've been there...Not fun trying to track down and repair all the damage.

First of all, let me explain how the code sets: The computer monitors the PRIMARY side of the coil to determine the burn time on the SECONDARY side of the coil. This can be a little confusing. The code will set when the computer determines that secondary ionization (burn time) was too short, too long, or did not occur at all.
If you have confirmed that there is no spark at the spark plug wires, then that is why the code is setting...ionization is not occurring at all. What can be a little confusing is that this can be caused by a failure in the PRIMARY coil circuit even though the code is indicating that the computer is having a problem with the SECONDARY circuit. (The secondary circuit can malfunction even though the primary side is functioning perfectly, but if the primary side malfunctions, the secondary side ALSO malfunctions - it is impossible for the secondary side to work if the primary side is not working.)

So, I said all that to tell you this: I think you have pretty much eliminated the entire secondary side of the ignition by replacing the whole circuit. So the problem must be on the primary side. (Probably more chewed wires)
There are 4 wires going to your ignition coil. The BROWN/WHITE wire comes from the ASD RElay and supplies battery voltage to the coil assembly. Since the other four cylinders are firing, This wire has to be OK.
The code you are getting is for coil #2. This coil is controlled by computer through the DARK BLUE/TAN wire. If you disconnect your coil connector and probe this wire with a test light connected to the POSITIVE battery post, it should "blink" when to crank the engine over. My guess is that it will not be blinking. You can do this also on the BROWN/ORANGE (coil #1) wire and the DARK BLUE/DARK GREEN (coil #3) wire to see the difference.

Anyway, if the DARK BLUE/TAN wire does not blink, then the wire is broken (chewed?) between the coil and the PCM.