Question about 2007 Toyota Corolla

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RPM BOUNCES UP AND DOWN

When I first start my car in the morning the NEEDLE ON THE RPM GOES UP N DOWN ALL THE WAY TO RED AREA ABOUT 1 1/2 MIN. LATER IT STOPS. BUT OW THE CK INGINE LIGHT IS ON. I'VE TAKEN IT TO A MACHANIC 3 TIMES 1ST THE SAID SENSOR PROBLEM $250 NOT FIXED 2ND TIME IT WAS ALTINATOR & BELT PROBLEM $550 NOT FIXED 3RD TIME THE CAN'T FIND ANYTHING WRONG. PLEASE HELP ME!!!

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  • Toyota Master
  • 10,543 Answers

Look for a poor connection on the fuse link bundle.

Posted on Sep 07, 2017

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 toyota 4 runner start problem

Take the vehicle back to the dealer and have them remove the starter and to inspect the starter contacts. Burnt contacts will make the clicking noise that you hear, as the starter solenoid plunger is hitting one contact, but the current is not being transferred from the battery contact to the starter motor windings via the other contact. This is a very common problem. You have 2 options: replace the contacts, or replace the starter. I see this 10-12 time a month; I regularly just replace the contacts to save the customer the expense of buying a whole new starter.

Posted on Sep 20, 2008

  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: Celica GT 1992 - Transmission Slips

get a can of BG TRANS FLUSH you will find at a auto part store put it in, drive it for about 20 min take it home change the fluid and filter and try that if problem still accurs after that your going to need a rebuild.

Posted on Mar 03, 2009

ourhowse
  • 2007 Answers

SOURCE: My 94 Toyota 4 Runner does not start.

Make sure you have the timing right. Best way is to take #1 spark plug out, stick your finger in the spark plug hole, and turn th engine until it starts to blow your finger out. Now you're sure it's on compression stroke. Then, trun the engine by hand to get the timing mark set to zero. Now, take your distributor cap off, and make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 spark on your distributor cap. Where ever the rotor is pointing, is #1. Check rotor direction of rotation before you put the rest of the wires on.
You still may have to turn the distributor a bit once you have it close. When you start turning it over, turn the distributor slowly one direction and then the other until it starts.
If you have all that done right, check for spark, and fuel, and get back to me.

Posted on Nov 05, 2009

SOURCE: Hi, I've sent my toyota

To have so many different codes at the same time indicates that the first place to start looking is the wiring harness itself. Locate the MAP (manifold air pressure sensor - code 31) and IAT (inlet air temperature sensor - code 24) connections. Disconnect and reconnect each sensor a few times and check that the connecting socket and pins are clean and free of corrosion - the codes indicate intermittent breaks. Check all fuses are clean and well mounted. Examine wiring harness for chafing, abrasion and signs of wear. Any intervening connections between the wiring harness and electronic control unit (ECU) need to be checked over and should be free of oily grime.

Posted on Nov 17, 2010

SOURCE: I have an /05 Highlander.

The VSC has nothing to do with the O2 Sensor,TPS Sensor or EGR Valve.

I will not express what I'am thinking,but in reality,NO Diagnostic work was done
on your vehicle.

My advice,and I don't know why the pros aren't all over me yet,is never go to a dealer.
You and thousands of others on this site alone,are perfect examples of why you
go down the street, to a local repair shop that cares.
I bet if you checked your in & out milage, that they are the same. Never road
tested,nothing,just threw parts at it at your expense.
There are good techs at dealers,but no service Mgrs that care,it is all about
taking your money and selling services you don't need. On the 5th visit they will
make the drivability repair you went there for.

Common sense: asumming they pulled codes
you never have multiple sensor failures all at one time.

Posted on Nov 29, 2010

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