I installed Freon in my 1972 chevy c10 after flushing the system and installing a retro kit. ac compressor clutch burned up after two days. I installed a new clutch, it burned up after two days, I installed a whole new compressor, evaporator, dryer, a white orfice , a low pressure switch and flushed the system again and the compressor clutch again burned up after two days. someone told me to switch to a blue orfice tube. someone else told me I have an adjustable low pressure switch and should adjust it to allow the compressor to run longer. any suggestions would be appreciated.
The best suggestion is to give up on replacing compressor clutches and have the system done by an accredited ac specialist shop
excessive pressure from excessive gas is hydraulicing the compressor and making the clutch slip burning it out
next flushing the system removes all of the compressor oil in the system leaving the compressor running virtually dry
next when a system is opened , moisture laden air gets in and that has to be vacuumed out for a period of 2 hours minimum or the water in the air turns to ice and blocks the tx valve
freon gas ( if that the gas that is supposed to be used as many now run r134a) is inserted ,not by the can but by the low pressure and high pressure readings on a manifold gauge designed for that purpose
I would say that by now you would have spent more money than what it would have cost you at the ac specialist shop
SOURCE: AC Problems
If there is no gas in the system it as you pointed out the low pressure switch will shut the power to the clutch in the compressor off. your pressureswitch should be located near the dryer at the front of your Benz. You could try and bridge it to see if the compressor engages, how ever DO NOT try and keep it engaged without gas in the system or you may find yourself having to change the compressor again.
SOURCE: does 1998 tahoe with rear a/c have two expansion
try adding freon with a dye in it, sounds you have a leak,pay special attention to the a/c lines that run under the truck. notorious for having pin hole leaks,check these and get back to me we'll go from there. hope this helps get back to me Thanks Ray
SOURCE: my ac was blowing fine
If the car was retro fitted with R134a this was a common problem. There was a low side pressure sensor that needs to be changed. R134a runs different pressures than the r12.. When you go down the road the condenser cools off the system and the pressure drops below the minimum pressure. You need to make sure that the system is fully charged, not just cold to the feel. Both pipes coming out of the firewall need to be the same temp. this makes sure that the evaporator is flooded.
I hope this helped. Re-post if you need more info. Have a nice day and good luck.
SOURCE: i have installed a new accumulator, evaporator,
Is the pressure detection switch engaged? It detects pressure in the cooling system. This switch shuts down the clutch to prevent the compressor to run when there's a leak.
Sometimes there's a looking glass on the expansion bottle showing tiny bubles. A large blob of air indicates too much air in the system. Pressure might not be enough to engage the switch when there's too much air left.
SOURCE: hello, i have a 98
There is a red wire going to the AC clutch, if you apply direct 12volts will it engage? If so, the constant control relay module (CCRM) could be defective. Hope this helps.
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