Getting good spark and new fuel pump. never had any problems, just all of a sudden the other morning it wouldn't start, just turns over and over but nothing. replaced distributer cap, rotor, coil, plugs, wires, and fuel pump but still nothing.
If you have no fuel pressure at the engine when key is on, the pump is not coming on. Check fuel pump fuse, check fuel pump relay (relay should click when key turned to on-put finger lightly on it and feel for click when someone turns key to on). If no click, signal from computer may be lost, ground for relay may be lost, or relay may be bad. If it clicks, wiring from relay to pump may have failed, or the relay's main power source may not be there at relay-find the fuse link or maxi-fuse that powers that relay. One terminal at relay should be hot at all times-can check for that with a test light.
If pump is working and you do have fuel pressure, you will need to check injector circuit. Post back if questions, or need further help.
Testimonial: "i have fuel pressure and i hear the pump coming on when i turn the key. i think it may be a sensor of some kind that may tell it when to send the fuel to the injectors maybe? I push the pressure valve on top of the motor and i get a quick squirt then the fuel trickles out--don't know if that is helpful or not. Thanks for you answer."
No such sensor-once the pump puts pressure in the lines, it means there is fuel under pressure against the injectors. If you have throttle body injection, the pressure is a little under 20 psi, so that quick squirt may be about right. You might want to put a fuel pressure gauge on that valve to be sure. If multi port injection, pressure would be a lot higher-around 40 psi. If it is TBI, you can observe the fuel spray out the bottom of injectors while the engine is cranking over. You should see a fine mist cone pattern when looking down the throat of throttle body-a friend must be cranking the engine over. If no gas coming out, you may have to diagnose the injector circuit.
I hope you're still here, bill, or come back to this lonely place...lol. Did you find the problem? it sounds like you were close. I wish i'd caught you reply sooner...to say as always, check the fuse first, the injectors are on a fused circuit, and with a little research and a wiring diagram, pretty easy to figure out, if so inclined, lol, perhaps the majority of people don't give a rat about learning about their primary mode of opporstation...there, I made a new word. ...looking at technology from the experience side, injectors are pulsed in a crafty manner: turn key on and supply constant voltage to the injector, and wait for the computer to touch the ground wire from injector to ground. don't know the tech., but it grounds it internally. there's your pulse. easy to check with a testlight, too, both the voltage wire, and can check if computer is grounding the circuit properly as engine is being cranked over, see if the computer is working right by watching your testlight blink as engine is cranked over and your testlight lead is hooked on the positive battery post,...and you are probing the ground circuit at the injector terminal connector that you pulled off to check your injector circuit. Did I go about this backwards? lol. all questions will now be entertained, lol;/.;
×
SOURCE: engine cranks ,but no spark.
ain t many more parts to electrical system left... i had same problem once n it was my ignition modulator.located under distributer.**** i can t remember,i think my car would not turn overfrom that.or only other thing could be a fuse.i 'd check every fuse too .hope this might help.
SOURCE: 1994Dodge Dakota Wont start changed distributor
could be a bad crankshaft position sensor or a bad camshaft position sensor. Either would cause no spark. I would check to see that you have fuel coming up to the throttle body
SOURCE: my 02 dodge 5.9 v8 engine turns but wont start
if it wont turns over and theres no spark it means that ur alternator is done..buy a new 1 and there ya go.,..problem solved :)
SOURCE: 1995 dodge dakota 2wd 3.9 no spark to plugs,or coil,orfuelpump
First of all let's explain how the spark gets to the plugs. There is a crankshaft position sensor and a cam sensor. They are what determines when to fire the coils and injectors. The crank sensor is located on the passenger side on top of the bellhousing, the cam sensor is the pickup plate in the distributor. As the engin turns the send refernece pulses to the computer which grounds and ungrounds the ignition coil causing it to discharge and send voltager from the secondary coil wire to the center tower in the distributor cap. The rotor button recieves the voltage and distributes it to the 6 towers (1 for each cylinder) If you say you're getting spark from the rotor that tells me the primary side of the ignition system is working, and the secondary side is working into the distributor cap. I'd check for spark out of the plug wires at the plugs. Pull a wire and insert a #2 phillips screwdriver into it, hol the shaft of the screwdriver aprox 1/8"(no more) from the exaust manifold and observe the spark as someone turns over the engine. You should see a nice blue spark. If theres spark, spray a little gum cutter in the throttle body an crank it, if it fires you have a fuel problem. Install a fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail and observe it as you crank it. If theres no fuel pressure maks sure there's fuel in the tank, if so climb underneath and beat on the bottom of the tank with a rubber hammer, the pump may be going bad, sometimes you can jar them and make them run.
SOURCE: engine cranks wont start
i do believe that's what it is if it will not let get a diagnostic or if it will not let you access the computer the computer is bad.
487 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×