When car is in drive, park and neutral the car feels like it wants to cut off due too not enough fuel, the rpm's rev from 500-1000 until you hit the gas, in neutral the problem is not as bad as when it is in drive. There are no effects in the performance of the car it is just when the car is at idle. It has been doing it for a few months now don't know if it is important but the timing belt just was changed about 3 months ago a few weeks before the problem started, the check engine light is not on and has never been on. It is a 1997 4 cylinder
May I suggest to use a OBD2 scanner and see if it could be a setting in the ECU (computer) that could be out... or engine part malfunction... it will scan for any errors... sounds like it could be the airflow sensor perhaps??
SOURCE: My car is having difficulty
I have the same problem, I replace the O2 sensors and nothing??????? I have no idea what to do to take care of the problem. I have just ordered a new and improved throttle body. according to the Mazda6 forum, the throttle body on the 03 model was junk. I'll keep you posted.
On a side note, I was transferred to Richmond, VA for Columbus, OH about an 8 hour drive. I have driven back and forth about 4 times with the check engine light on and have had no problems. my email is [email protected] if you find a solution please let me know and I will do the same.
SOURCE: high idle 1997 Madza 626 4 cylinder auto transamission
The PCM controls idle speed to ensure good driveability. The PCM will only attempt to maintain the desired idle speed when it “knows” the throttle is closed. A throttle switch or the TPS input is used to determine when the throttle is in the idle position. Motors and solenoids are used by most PCM’s to control idle speed. Many PCM’s are programmed to attempt to control the idle speed by adjusting spark timing and then by controlling the idle speed actuator. Some computers of the early 80's did not control idle speed.
SOURCE: engine skipping/misfiring, engine light flashing
Drive it into a dark place, or wait till dark. When it's running poorly, see if you can see any spark flying around. It sounds like plug wires.
SOURCE: Mazda Protege 2.0 Engine Problem
Thanks for update. That timing belt issue, was the first thing that came to mind, well let's hope they find problem. I'd make a point of showing the original mechanic the repair order/bill after to see what his response is, if it is the belt installed wrong. Keep me posted.
I had a problem on my Nissan Xterra 2000. Symptons sound similar. In my case, it ran fine for a while and then suddenly the engine starts to stumble and lose output. At one point it did not even have enough HP to move. Irregular idling too. Thought it was water in my fuel. Bought water remover from the store and added to gas tank. Problem did not go away. Instead, "Service Engine Soon" light came on. Had to have it towed to the dealer as there was no way the engine could keep up with traffic. Dealer replaced the "Crank Position Sensor" today. Parts $33.00, Labor: $300 (about 3 hrs worth of work). Seems to work fine now but I will wait and see. Dealer also stated that Distributor bearing appears to be noisy and will need to be replaced sooner or later. I will wait for it to go before I fix that.
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