The horn in my car is stiking on

Most of the "Train Horns" are air operated. You'll need a 12VDC compressor, wiring, pressure switch to turn it on when pressure falls, a storage tank of a few gallons to hold the air until you're ready to sound them and a 12VDC solenoid connected to the wire that fed the original factory horn that will let air blow into the horn when you press the horn button. You've got a ways to go yet.

It's looking like the horn press is not completing the circuit. Either that, ir the wiring is open circuit somewhere.

Security engaged, Lock and unlock doors with key until horn stops.

Before you change relay do this, take out the horn wires and attach a 12v bulb to it and press horn button.

Condition 1: Blub glows:
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1. Re-attach the horn wires and look for a adjustment screw behind the horn. Ask someone to press horn button and using a screw driver, rotate this screw clock or anti-clock wise until you hear some sound. Fine adjust the screw for best sound. Most probably you will need to put cork in your ear to save your ear drums :P

2. Put some glue on this screw.

3. If still no sound, then horn is dead and you have to buy new horn.

Condition 2: Bulb does not glow:
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1. Check using a bulb / multimeter at the contacts of relay if you are actually getting current in relay. Hear the click sound of relay on pressing horn button. If it has no life, then change it.

The horn has power all of the time but does not go off untill it is grounded. The switch in the steering wheel is the ground when you press it completing the circuit and sounding the horn. The alarm does not use the steering column or steering wheel ground path to "beep" the horn, it uses its own ground. The problem then will more than likely be in the steering column, steering wheel switches, or clock-spring. The clock spring is not for the clock. It is a spiral-wound wire set that allows the steering wheel to turn and not bind up the wires going into the steering wheel. It is called a clock-spring due to the "spiral" wound design of the connector. The horn ground wire in the steering wheel gets its connection through this clock-spring, so it may the source of your problem. It would require some electrical diagnostics to verify the actual point of failure.

TURN ON IGNITION SWITCH. REPEATEDLY PRESS BUTTON WITH ARROW POINTING DOWN ON STEERING WHEEL HORN PAD.PRESS BUTTON UNTIL SERVICE MESSAGE IS DISPLAYED.THEN PRESS SMALL BUTTON FAR LEFT SPEEDOMETER GAUGE HOLD BUTTON FOR 6 SECONDS UNTIL MESSAGE SERVICE MENU IS DISPLAYED.PRESS MINUS BUTTON RIGHT ON HORN PAD AND SELECT CONFIRMATION.PRESS THE BOTTOM BUTTON ON HORN PAD LOOK LIKE TWO SMALL SQUARES AND SELECT CONFIRM PRESS THE TWO SMALL SQUARE BUTTON ON HORN PAD AGAIN.THEN SELECT OIL GRADE.PRESS BUTTON AGAIN THE MESSAGE SERVICE CONFIRMED WILL APPEAR IN THE DISPLAY.TURN OFF IGNITION.IF STILL WONT RESET DEALERSHIP WILL HAVE TO RESET IT.

The car is possessed.! Just kidding! Horn's usually have power going to them at all times so when you press the horn button, that is essentially grounding the circuit which completes the circuit triggering the horn to blow. The horn relay could also be faulty. Log onto Autozone.com and by entering your yr/mk/model of vehicle you are able to view Chilton's online manual for free. Go to the wiring diagrams section so you can become familiar with your specific wiring.

Sounds like it. Can't you take the horn pad off.

Remove horn button from steering wheel, pull apart and see if the foam between the plates is deteriorated. that keeps the horn from going off. i had similar problem in my 88 mustang, also horn relay may be bad and stiking on if horn button is not the problem

WHEN THE HORN IS GOING OFF PUT A GROUND WIRE TO THE BODY OF THE HORN IF THIS STILL HAPPEN CHECK YOUR HORN SWITCH IN THE STEERING IT MAY BE STIKING OR THE WIRE MAY HAVE SHORTS