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Anonymous Posted on May 19, 2013

Smog inspection i am having a lot of trouble getting my smog inspection to pass at my wits ends!!!!

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Chris Weiser

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  • Posted on May 19, 2013
Chris Weiser
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What engine codes do you have. If there is an emissions problem there should be a check engine light.

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1774 and 1775

There is probably no need to contact the BAR though you always have the right reserved. Trouble Code P1774 indicates your Mini's rear wheel speed sensor lost its signal, and trouble code P1775 indicates the right rear wheel speed sensor lost its signal as well. Both more than likely triggered during the dynamometer portion of the smog check inspection; while the front wheels are turning and the rear wheels are stationary. During this time, as far as the ABS system knows, the rear wheel sensors have lost their signals.
After a computer reset and driving your Mini Cooper for a few miles everything should return to normal, as apparently they have; and you've passed the smog check. Should the check engine light return in the near future for the same trouble codes P1774 and P1775 we'd recommend inspecting the rear wheel speed sensors for possible debris build-up. Since these trouble codes where triggered during the smog check and smog check machine failure we can assume the trouble codes were temporary and not related to any physical problem with your Mini Cooper.
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making the light go out will not enable the car to pass smog! it is indicating a problem and this problem will surface when it is checked at smog inspection.
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I have a 96 Sentra which has been sitting for two years. it has 240,000 miles on it. It runs smooth but will not pass California Smog. What parts can I check or replace to improve the chances of passing...

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How can I fix the engine from running rich? It runs so rich. It doesn't pass CA Smog? How can I isolate the problem? Also the car has been sitting in driveway for a couple years. But I started it for first...

this is what i did when my 89 chevy beretta failed and the guy handed me a pamphlet on turning in your junker car for a $1000...and he was kind of laughing like you failed and i got you money anyway because he thinks he knows that there's no way my car will pass again.
here's what i did.
#1 changed out all plugs and wires
#2 changed my oxygen sensor
#3 inspected all my vacuum hoses found a crack going to the MAP sensor
i just cut off that end and shoved it back on. and changed out the PCV valve and also found a crack in that hose but couldnt replace it, so i just rapped it real tight with black electrical tape.
#4 cleaned up throttle body real good and the IAC sensor with throttle body cleaner
#5 replaced the oil and filter
#6 serviced the transmission fluid
#7 replaced my catalytic convertor
#8 ran my car around and got it real hot before taking it in
retested and you should have seen the look on his face and i said thanks to him my car was only getting 19 to 20 miles to the gallon my dash computer says im getting 28 now. it was really low smog readings and he couldnt believe it.
so if you do all these things it cost $150 for a cheap cat
i think $40 for oxygen sensor
$30 for oil and filter
$60 for trans service
$40 plugs and wires
$7 throttle body cleaner
$8 PCV
total $335 it should pass
on my other car it failed smog so i went this time and just changed the cat and it passed..not quite as good as my beretta but a pass is a pass. try this and you'll probably at least pass! who knows you might even increse your mpg. Can you rate this, thanks!
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http://www.summitracing.com

call thier tech support to get the exact part numbers and help for installation..
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