95 xj6 , have electrical power starter does not work.

Replace your electronic ignition switch behind your key switch.

Do the gauges and warning lights work with key on? If not, check fusible links, AM1 for ignition key power. If the gauges/warning lights work, the key switch has power, so you can follow it to the starter solenoid. The start wire out of the ignition switch is a black/white wire, this is the hot wire to the solenoid, and only has power when key is held in start. With automatics, there is only one switch-a neutral start switch- between the ignition switch and the solenoid on the starter .

With a manual transmission, the black-white start wire goes to both a starter relay and a clutch start switch (on the clutch pedal), those two work together to send the power on to the starter solenoid. So, no crank, good battery, power to key, follow the black/white wire, the start relay and the clutch switch, to the starter solenoid- a hot wire there turns the starter motor on.

Start at the battery. Check for clean, tight connections. Any chance it is discharged? It needs to be at lest 12.6 volts on a voltmeter to be ready to start the car.
Is there power from battery to the ignition switch? Turn key on. Do warning lights and gauges come on? And accessories work? Then there is power to the switch. If nothing, start checking fuses and fusible links that pass power from battery to the switch.
An electrical circuit is a complete electrical path from a power source to an electrical load to ground, and back to the power source-the battery. The starting circuit is just such a circuit. From the battery to the key switch to a relay or switch (neutral safety switch) or two, to the starter, and then to ground-back to the battery. If the key turns power on, one could next see if power is getting to the starter solenoid, mounted on the starter. The small wire to the solenoid should have power to it when the key is held in crank position. Use a test light or voltmeter to check for power there. If has power, likely the starter or solenoid is bad. You then need to take it off and have it tested-a free service at most parts stores. If no power is getting to the solenoid, but the ignition switch has power, further testing of the start circuit will have to be done -the clutch switch (or neutral/park switch if automatic trans.), the starter relay, and whatever else is in your starting circuit.
If car has an alarm system, make sure it is not activated, so the immobilizer function is not causing a no start.
Good luck. Post back with results.

turn on ignition do not start the vehicle, step on throttle 3 times. Turn off key and then start vehicle. Good luck

Have you checked (or wired around) the fuel pump relay?

SOUND LIKE STARTER FAULTY OR A BAD SAFETY TRANSMISSION NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH WILL CAUSE NO START CONDITIONS.

there are 2 connections on the bulkhead/firewall. There is one on
each side.The connectors are brass and the insulators are
plastic with a rubber boot. unless these connections are clean you may get all sorts of malfunctions with switches,lights and electric
motors. Symptoms are similar to a failing battery, something to start with..

good luck

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Lock your doors with key and hold until the alarm activates, then unluck car and start

get the oil pressure checked with a master gauge at a garage if ok will be oil gauge sender unit at fault if low with master gauge check oil pressure relief valve on filter housing i assume you have checked oil level

make sure battery is good, surpression module is fine and power turns on with key, luck doors and hold key to activate alarm, then unluck and start