Divers side Window won't go down no seat response mirrors don't operate either in other words nothing operates. Passenger side operates fine. Also getting parking brake waring and cruise control warning statements. This happened all at the same time.
Go to your dealer you may have a module programming issue try a battery reset to reboot the electronic modules
SOURCE: door window on 2000 jaguar s type
take off inner door panel, lower track and put the window back in. If parts on track are broken buy new ones. Use urathain to reinstall window.
SOURCE: Rear window on driver's side slides down
I've had this problem and I believe its a common problem with S types. There is a white plastic slider that wraps around a metal strut and moves up and down as the window opens and closes. The problem is that the plastic slider breaks if the car door is slammed when the window is half way down, When this occurs the slider breaks free and the wire that pulls it up and down wraps itself around the motor and jamms everything up. The fix is to replace the window regulator as a complete unit. This fairly straight forward and worth the effort as you most likely will be replacing the other regulators if you keep the car for a while. Buy the regulator either from Jag dealer or OEM part which is approx 1/2 the cost (I found mine on ebay!). Make sure your get the correct unit, left, right, front and rear are different. Take off the door panel, its all clips except you need to unscrew the two scews under the rubber insert in the door pocket first. After you have removed the panel remove the black plastic cover as well. You need to detach the glass window from the regulator, This is done by punching out the brass insert in the middle of the plastic plug that is pushed through a hole in the glass. Be careful, if you hit it too hard you can break the glass, I ended up drilling it out as this was easier. Once you have the plastic plug out the glass is detached and you can remove the regulator. This is just a few screws, the only tricky part is to get the angle right to pull it out the door frame. Installation of the regulator is just the reverse. Good luck.
SOURCE: jammed seat belt
bet the belt is twisted pull back the rubber door seal and remove the top buckle should be possible to remove the trim pull the belt all the way out and untwist go for it
SOURCE: heater on blowing cold on driver side and hot on passenger side
This sounds like an air damper is not operating, maybe a cable sticking or a vacuum line come off.
SOURCE: electrical problems - something draining battery
First of all, one of the easiest & cheapest ways to find a draw in the system, if you don't have a clamp on style amp-meter, is with a 12volt test light that costs about $5-$10 at parts stores or hardware stores. You remove positive (+) cable from battery, and simply attach test light in between the battery cable & battery + post. Be careful neither end touches metal obviously. Anytime the test light is lit, you have a draw. If light is nice & bright, it's a fairly good draw, when dim, slight draw. When light goes out, no draw. Now start pulling and re-installing fuses. If you pull a fuse and bright light goes out, you've isolated the circuit.. I usually make sure I have notes or whatever is needed to insure I put fuses back where they should be, then I pull radio fuse and leave it out, as it will cause a constant draw for memory, and sometimes any accessory fuses such as lighter, or power socket for 12v chargers etc. With those out of the way, start pulling and watch light, if no change, put it back in. When I run into a real stumper, I make necessary notes if needed as before, and pull them all out, and light should be off. Now I start putting them in 1 at a time, and watch the light, when it comes on, I note that circuit, pull it back out, and do same with the rest. When your done you will have notes on every circuit that is causing a draw on your battery when sitting. Before you start, take your test light, go to all the fuses and touch little tips sticking out at end of fuses on both side to test for power, if only power on one side, that is a circuit that would not cause a draw when sitting & vehicle off. That would only be powered when key on, headlights on for example, so it doesn't come into play here. Leave those in if you want & it doesn't confuse you. Yes a little time consumming, but hey, think of the learning experience, and a simple test light, is something that every car owner should have anyway. Next time your wondering which fuse blew, you have a test light to tell you. As far as the heated seat goes, if there is a short there, and it's causing a lot of draw, pulling fuse should eliminate & confirm that.
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