Need to know where slave cylinder nipple is

a plastic master cyl !

master cyl is bypassing internally

slave cylinder is inside the gearbox bell housing
if its leaking .....gearbox out

If not obvious, slightly loosen supply line. Remember, air rises, so bleed at master also.

Usually these are replaced as assembly,with the clutch master cylinder and it all prebled.http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1995-Saturn-SL1/Clutch-Slave-Cylinder/_/N-j1oexZ6o2ja

fill to top with fluid ,then assisant pumps clutch till it moves a bit and you shout hold down then slacken bleed nipple for a sec then repeat and after four or five time the pressure will build up ,if you cannot get any pressure to start with use a big screwdriver and lever the operating arm in and slcaken bleed nipple then back to pumping it again to get a bit of pressure into it ,another way is to leave a big brick on the pedal overnight to allow the air to rise

i think you need to find an exedy replacement slave cylinder, they have bleeder nipples so you can get the air out. however if you look on eBay you will find folks who are selling complete new prebled master/hose/slave units which fit all S- saturns 91-99 for about $110.00. on a car that old it makes sense to replace the whole shootin' match, not just one end of it.

Have a look under the bonnet (hood) and next to or connected to the brake master cylinder you should see the clutch master cylinder.

• Make sure that fluid is at the level it's required to be in the reservoir.
• There will be a single metal pipe coming out of the cylinder and laid in the direction of where the clutch assembly is fitted.
• The pipe will fit into the clutch slave cylinder mounted onto the bell housing (which is the housing covering the clutch assembly.
• One end of the slave cylinder will have a rod, pushed by a piston inside the cylinder (which may be hidden from sight) and at the other end, the same pipe we have earlier spoken of is fitted.
• At the highest point above where the pipe is screwed in there is a bleeding nipple.
• Someone should sit in the car and push the pedal slowly down and then allowing it to return to fully up....Repeat this four or five times and then with the pedal held fully down loosen the bleeding nipple to allow the air contaminated fluid to be expelled....Repeat this procedure until the pedal has become firm.
• Have another friend making sure the level of fluid doesn't drop below three quarters in the reservoir.
• Make sure the nipple is closed tightly but not over tight....
• And then happy driving

Regards Johngee10

one way to bleed it is by pulling the piston like slave cylinder with the rod out of the transmission and by pushing the rod into the slave cylinder several times, make sure you have plenty of dot3 brake fluid in the clutch master slave before you do this. by pushing the rod into the slave cylinder it acts like doing a brake job it bleeds the air out into the clutch master slave cylinder and sucks in the break fluid getting rid of all air in the system. thats the only way to bleed those systems seeing as they are sealed systems

You need to PRE BLEED the master cylinder, or you may never get pressure. Parts houses sell little hoses for this purpose.

Hi: Your slave cylinder works like the master cylinder, it has a resevior for fluid and needs to be bleed free from air.

If you're not planning to remove the slave cylinder, I found it easier to use a set of ramps under the front wheels and work under the vehicle rather than jacking it up and taking off the front wheels. Put one end of the plastic tubing on the end of the nipple, the other in the empty jar.
When you have reassembled the clutch hydraulics, refill the clutch fluid reservoir, make sure the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder is tightly closed. Now, with the piece of wood within reach, slowly depress the clutch pedal with your hand and hold it down while you prop the wood against it, wedging the other end against the bolt that holds down the left front of the driver’s seat. Next, open the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. You may see some fluid, or just a puff of air, or perhaps some of both in the form of bubbles. In any event, close the nipple tightly again. On your way back to the clutch pedal, check the fluid reservoir and top off as necessary. Hold the clutch pedal down with your hand as you remove the wood brace, then slowly release the pedal. When it is all the way up, press it down again slowly and reinsert the wood. Open and close the bleed nipple again. Repeat the entire process as many times as needed until you see a solid stream of clear brake fluid coming from the nipple with no air bubbles. Be sure to close the nipple tightly each time to avoid sucking air back into the system when you release the clutch pedal. And don’t forget to check the fluid reservoir each time.
Check the clutch pedal with your foot to see if you have normal pressure. If it seems okay start the vehicle and put it in gear (reverse if you’ve got it up on ramps). Now take it around the block and roadtest it. If all is not right, you’ve still got air in the system and will have to bleed it some more. Re-check the fluid reservoir again after a few hours—you may find that you need to top off the reservoir one last time.
Note: When I did mine, I had let the system drain so I could flush out dirty fluid. The first couple of times I opened the bleed nipple, therefore, I pumped the clutch pedal three times in order to make the process go a little faster, because I knew that the first couple of times all I’d be doing was compressing air.
I have replaced both my master and slave cylinders and have found through this experience that you do not need to open and close the bleed nipple. Because of the location of the slave cylinder gravity does the job. Just loosen the slave nipple and let the fluid run out until there is no more air. You might have to pump once or twice but once the fluid starts to move it works on its own. Tighten, nipple and you're done.

There would be a bleed nipple on it. It would be located near the bellhousing.
Open nipple a little let fluod seep out until no bubbles in it. Make sure you top the fluid up and dont let it empty.