There is more than likely just a sensor that needs to be replaced, Either that or there is a problem with the wiring somewhere. How does the vehicle behave when shifting?
I have an idea, but my idea shouldn't throw a trouble code. Have you disconnected a battery cable, or had your car die lately? The reason I ask is because if your vehicle's short term memory loses power it will become erased. When that happens it loses all information and has to basically re-learn how you drive, when you shift, etc. and it will shift hard until it re-learns that information.Â
It is a long shot but I have heard of newer vehicles shifting so hard that they knock sensors loose (which in your case would throw that trouble code) But like I said, that is a long shot.Â
Drive it around for one more week and if it doesn't clear up them your throttle cable or your shift cable may be out of adjustment.
If you have a warranty or have an extra $80 laying around, take it to your local Chrysler Dealership and ask them to hook your vehicle up to a scan tool to get freeze frame data see if they can clear the trouble code. That will definitely get you way more information that pertains to your vehicle and set you on a better path than you could ever find on the internet.Â
I would seriously go with a mitchells manual- chilton and haynes aren't the best. They should have one specifically for transmissions I would get those the general purpose ones are usually kinda lean as far as tranny info goes. What is throwing me for a loop is that you are getting the input speed code. It really sounds like your T.V. (throttle valve) Cable is too long and/ or you 2-3 valve is sticking.Â
WOW you could make some serious moolah off of those shop manuals!Â
The solenoid pack sounds like a good idea maybe try to see if you can just get the 2-3 shift solenoid though. I say that only because it sounds like 2nd and 3rd gear is where you are having the majority of your problems.Â
Hmm leaky pan eh? What I would do if I were you is the next time you pull your pan clean it off and set it on a table with the lip side down. Take a flashlight and shine it on the other side from you and see if you see light. If you do, your pan is warped and I am going to say that the dingus that worked it before you didn't torque the pan evenly and warped it. Either that or he tried to take it off when it was hot. If your pan is warped there is not much you can do to fix it- it has to be perfectly straight and level, you might as well go purchase a new one. Â However- if your pan is o.k. then that part of your tranny is warped and you would need to have it milled at a tranny shop. Another jerry- rigging alternative if it is not warped too bad would be to find out exactly what type of gasket it was manufactured with, buy one and take a tube of BLACK RTV silicone and spread a bead no more than the thickness of the ink cartridge of a Bic pen around your pan on top of the gasket, let it skin over per the directions on the tube and re-install your pan. Follow the instructions on the tube word for word or you will have more solenoid and valve problems that you know what to do with.Â
By the way,
Torque specs for your pan bolts are 18-20 Lb/ft.Â
Tell you the truth, alot of those kits just have random gaskets they think will work with your setup. Call your local Chrysler dealership and ask the service writer what kind of gasket it is supposed to come with (i.e. cork, rubber, felt, etc.). Do that or get ahold of these guys, they make great tranny kits and parts! Also, when you drain your fluids and pull the pan, inspect both very carefully for metal shavings/ dust and black specs of... stuff. The metal shavings would indicate that you are grinding gears during those hard shifts and the black debris would indicate that your clutch packs are getting burnt up as well.
If your pan is warped a little bit and they tell that your that your proper gasket is NOT felt put a little bit of RTV on it and etc. etc. etc. The felt will soak it up and not seal and the gasket would be ruined and blah blah blah ya get the picture!
Also, bone up on your entertainment center asembly instruction reading skills because these transmission manuals WILL blow your mind! They are bloody wild! The first time I ever read one my eyes kinda glazed over and they say I started drooling- I don't know but these things are intense!!!
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P0700 Transmission Control System
P0701 Transmission Control System Range/Performance
P0702 Transmission Control System -Electrical
P0703 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit
P0704 Clutch Pedal Position Switch -Circuit Malfunction
P0705 Transmission Range Sensor/Switch Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)
P0706 Transmission Range Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance
P0707 Transmission Range Sensor/Switch Circuit Low Input
P0708 Transmission Range Sensor/Switch Circuit High Input
P0709 Transmission Range Sensor/Switch Circuit intermittent
P0710 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit
P0711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0712 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0714 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit
P0716 input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0717 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0718 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0719 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit Low
P0720 Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit
P0721 Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0722 Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0723 Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0724 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit High
P0725 Engine RPM Input Circuit
P0726 Engine RPM Input Circuit Range/Performance
P0727 Engine RPM Input Circuit No Signal
P0728 Engine RPM Input Circuit Intermittent
P0729 Gear 6 Incorrect Ratio
P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio
P0731 Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio
P0732 Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio
P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio
P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio
P0735 Gear 5 Incorrect Ratio
P0736 Reverse Incorrect Ratio
P0737 TCM Engine Speed Output Circuit
P0738 TCM Engine Speed Output Circuit Low
P0739 TCM Engine Speed Output Circuit High
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit
P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
P0742 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Stuck On
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Electrical
Now i dont know a lot about automatics especially modern ones with all this fancy electronics thats used nowdays but i think its a fault with the temperature sensor for the gearbox.But where its located and what it looks like i have no idea it could even be mounted inside the gearbox .Sorry not a very good answer from a mechanic but?? very few of our europeon cars come with auto transmission .Evan when i do know whats wrong i cannot buy the parts for the gearbox as only re-con boxes supplied by the dealer so best advice is to try a specialist in auto box repairs only .PS some of my best students when i used to teach mechanics many moons ago were the girls so no excuses like iam only a girl please
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http://engine-codes.com/p0715_mitsubishi.htmlForum CodePossible causes - Transmission speed sensor circuit is open or shorted
Help with thisWhen is the code detected?Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0715 is detected when TCM or ECM does not receive the proper signal from the sensor.Symptoms- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)http://engine-codes.com/p0715_mazda.htmlForum CodePossible causes- Transmission speed sensor circuit is open or shorted. 988 views
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I just bought the vehicle the other week at 77K miles. It wasnt shifting completely smoothly, it wasnt horrible, so I figured it just needed a fluid and filter change which I completed last Friday night. The car was driven over the weekend and then on Monday the check engine light came on and I hooked up my code reader. Like I said it isnt shifting perfectly but it isnt doing really badly like some of the other posts I have read on the internet. It just has a hard shift I think about 3rd gear on acceleration and sometimes on down shift. It shifts from drive to neutral and to reverse not as smoothly as I would like. Any ideas?
Unfortunately I have only had the car two weeks. In that time I have not disconnected the battery cable or lost power. I do know what you are talking about though, however I cant speak to what the previous owner did right before I got the car. Maybe it threw a code and they disconnected the battery to clear the check engine light just to get it sold. I cleared the code with my ODBII scanner on Monday and today on my wife's way home from work it came back on and is throwing the same code again.
I may resort to taking it in, but I am going to spend that $80 on a full set of dealer diagnostic manuals and see if I can get some where with those first. I am very dissapointed to find out Haynes nor Chilton makes a manual for the Pacifica yet.
I drove it around a bit tonight myself and it's having the rough shift between 2nd and third both directions. It is intermittent, not every time it shifts. I am thinking I may still pursue the input speed sensor, I just might wait until I have the manuals to make sure I do the swap out right.
Well neither Chilton nor Haynes makes one for the Pacifica, so they can **** it! I bought a set of 5 Daimler-Chrysler dealer shop manuals today off eBay. I will have the Service Manual, Body Diagnostic Procedures, Powetrain Diagnostic Procedures, Transmission Diagnostic Procedures and Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures. I'm thinking these should help me out quite a bit.
One more thing when I bought the car it appeared to be leaking fluid around the pan. So I figured it just needed a new gasket, which it did and was part of the filter kit. However last night when I checked it, it was leaking again. I have read in the Chrysler Forums people who had leaking and poor shifting had a faulty solenoid pack that fixed the problem. I'll keep probing away at this and see what I find.
They were only $65 for the lot of them, so I snatched them up quick. Hopefully they are in good shape like the ad said. Yes I am excited to get them so I will really know what I am dealing with.
Oh good idea, I'll do that, I was thinking about actually flushing the tranny, so I may pull the pan again anyway. Its just such a pain, my car before this had a plug and spin off filter, it was heaven!
I think this was a problem before because the pan bolts had black RTV all over them, I think they used RTV as the gasket last time, which is why I thought the leaking would stop when I used the proper rubber gasket the filter kit came with. I spent a lot of time scraping the RTV off when I did the fluid change.
Thanks for the torque spec!
Read my thread on the Chrysler forum for the final solution to this problem.
Here is the link:
http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/showt...
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