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Anonymous Posted on Apr 15, 2013

Have replace master cylinder have bleed all line for air replace rear cylinder on both side and front caliper still have to pump the brake to the floor for to stop need help what to do next

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Damian Clark Sr.

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  • Contributor 14 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 15, 2013
Damian Clark Sr.
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Joined: Sep 26, 2012
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Do what is called a gravity blead. open all bleeders slightly and do not let the master cylinder go dry. after this start at passenger rear then drivers rear, passenger front then drivers. if this does not help you must bring the car in to a garage for abs bleeding and/or new abs module.

  • 1 more comment 
  • Anonymous Apr 15, 2013

    I have taken the car in brake work fine for about 6 weeks I've done the same at home bleeding lasted again about 6 weeks some problem pumping brake thinking of replacing the proportion valve myself or replacing the master cylinder myself at lest i know the work was done.

  • Anonymous Apr 15, 2013

    how can you tell when your master cylinder is going bad what sign to look for.

  • Damian Clark Sr.
    Damian Clark Sr. Apr 15, 2013

    the master could and would exhibit the same scenario. roportional valves usually entail brakes grabbing at front or back but again it could be abs too but try the master cylinder first.

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1605 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 29, 2009

SOURCE: brakes to the floor(almost) 99 blazer

bleed the brake again. if the pedal goes to the floor with little resistance, then the master cylinder is your problem.
the shim is to depress the noise when you applied the brake. you can skip that, if the brake works without it.

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Rob Sinbad

  • 709 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 25, 2009

SOURCE: 1994 Cavalier -replaced master cylinder-no pressure to rear brake

The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.

Anonymous

  • 233 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 16, 2009

SOURCE: how do you bleed the abs unit on a 1997 chevrolet truck

start by bleeding the master cylinder bleed the line closest to the fire wall, then proceed to the right rear wheel, left rear wheel, right front wheel, and then the left front wheel.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 31, 2010

SOURCE: Brakes are still spongy after changing the pads, one caliper, and master cylinder. bled front brakes.

I just went to Brake Masters this morning and had them replace the Master Cylinder since I was experiencing the pedal very spongy and going to the floor. When they replaced the Master Cylinder and they gave me back the car, the brakes were still spongy and going to the floor. I addressed this to them and they took another look at it, but when I took it for a second time, the brakes were extremely spongy. It was almost like they gave me back my car in worst condition to when I brought it in. Can you help?

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 02, 2010

SOURCE: Hi i have a 1995 cheverolet silverado 1500. For

If you haven't already, check your rubber lines for weakness; they could be ballooning under pressure.

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when replacing the brakes you usually dont bleed the system ---usually bleed system when air gets in from like changing a line master cylinder or caliper-- and or master is empty .but to bleed you start at passenger rear first than drivers side rear,up to passenger side front ending at drivers side front
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I have replaced 3 disc brake calipers on my 2001 pt cruiser. after bleeding all 4 brakes 3 times, I started the car and brake pedal goes to floor. is my brake booster shot?

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You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, then the closest. If your master cylinder is at the left front of the car, start with the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. If you don't bleed the brakes in the correct order, you are just shifting the air in the lines from one line to another. Make sure that you close the bleeder before letting the brake pedal up, and the engine should not be running when you bleed the brakes... Make sure that the emergency brake is off. Make sure that the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid at any time that you are bleeding the brakes.
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Rear caliper on 2005 Ford F150 not releasing, replaced both rear calipers, now pedal goes to the floor - no brakes at all. What can/should i do?

Sounds like it still has some air in the system or a bad master cylinder. First try bleeding all air, there is definitely some air left in the lines and this is most probably causing the problem. Bled the lines at the bleeder screws on the calipers. ---------- There is air left in the brake line.Any time the brake system is opened to replace brake lines, caliper, pads etc etc.Mostly the air enters the system, and that air has to be completely bleed.Otherwise the same symptoms , what you are getting will be noticed.-------- Brakes can be bled manually, with a power bleeder, injector tool or vacuum bleeder.IIt does not make any difference which method you use as long as all the lines and components are flushed with enough fluid to remove any trapped air bubbles or air pockets.----
The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car or truck, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.--------- When the complete air is bleed from the line, the brake should be firm when car is on.In your case brake brake pedal is loose and goes almost to the floor when car is ON.This is due to Air in the line.Get the complete air bleed from brake line.------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech
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All of a sudden i have spongy brakes on my 92 f 250. changed master cyl and booster. and rubber brake hoses. still spongy and nothing is leaking.brakes went from being good to spongy in one...

Check the rear wheel cylinders? Was anything leaking at the master cylinder? Does it have ABS?
Check the front caliper slides are free. Check the front caliper pistons for leaks as well. This is all assuming you bled the brakes(all 4 wheels) properly after all that replacement! You're getting air from somewhere for sure or if it has ABS, the pump may have a problem.
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After putting on new calipers on both sides of my dodge ram 2005 1500 and bled brakes I have no brakes. What is the problem they worked fine until I did the caliper and brake

Did you bleed rear brakes also? Should do all 4 whenever bleeding brakes starting w/ right rear, left rear, right front then left front. Sounds like air in lines.
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How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn

The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
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    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
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WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
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  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

0helpful
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My brakes will not get hard. The pedal goes to the floor. I just changed rear caliper and rotor on the drivers side.

DId you bleed the system after you changed the caliper? If the Master cylinder lost it's fluid while you were changing the caliper, then there is air in the system and you need to bleed the entire system. start with the REAR RIGHT, then the REAR LEFT and then the FRONT RIGHT and last the FRONT LEFT. make sure the master cylinder NEVER runs low on fluid and DO NOT re-use any fluid that you get out of the calipers.
1helpful
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After replacing drive side caliper, both front disk brakes, and rear drum brakes, bleed all three lines, both my front calipers lock grinding my front brakes. I am going to re-bleed my lines tomorrow but...

I assume you mean that you replaced the front pads and rear shoes. Or did you also replace the disks and drums?? Either way you should be ok unless you also replaced the slave cylinders on the rears.
The fluid flows back up to the Master Cylinder as you squeeze the calipers and the slaves to fit the new parts in. Some people pre-fill the caliper to reduce the amount of air and make bleeding easier.Now .....Grinding better be a wrong choice of words. Possibly you spilled fluid on the pads while bleeding the lines. This will cause a binding and shuddering when you apply brake pressure. This will also make you think the lines are not bled properly because of the increased pedal pressure you are putting on the wet/lubricated front pads. If so, replace the pads. Don't try washing them with aerosol cleaner cause it takes more time and money than simply changing them.
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Got answer to my question about air in brakes but how do you bleed the master cylinder?

to bleed the brake line somebody as to pump the brake pedal
3 to 4 times and somebody opens the bleeder on the brake caliper

starting by the right rear wheel, then the left rear wheel, then front right wheel anf finishing with the front left wheel bleeder.

to bleed the master cylinder is the same principle pump pedal 3,4 times
but this time open the line at the master cylinder starting with the rear hoses

hope it is helpful
1helpful
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Unable to bleed front brakes

loosen the front brake line that goes to the master cylinder fill master cylinder up with fluid and bleed it first by attaching a flexible line from master cylinder front brake side submerge that line into jar of brakefluid keeping air from entering line get someone to pump brake pedal while ur holding line in a jar keep refilling the brake resivoir so no air gets in, once the master is bled front brake side then reattach the origional brake line then remove bleed screw from caliper and let fluid gravity flow down to calliper then bleed the normal way. more than likely your master cylinder has air trapped in the front portion good luck
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