Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

N. Torres Posted on Apr 15, 2013
Answered by a Fixya Expert

Trustworthy Expert Solutions

At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.

View Our Top Experts

04 saturn L300

When the car reaches a speed of 70 mph the acceleration dies. Car can travel at speeds less than 60 but once is goes past 70 mph the car sputters and the check engine light comes on, the acceleration dies and the car slows down till it stops. I turn the car off for 10 minutes then restart and I can move again but the acceleration takes a while to get up to even 50. After the car rests for hours the car acceleration returns to normal the engine light goes off but will only stay normal if I stay under 60 mph.. Im sure its fuel pump issues. Went to mechanic for diagnostic and nothing comes up. Even went when engine light was on and they couldnt figure it out. Can anyone help...

1 Answer

Chris Weiser

Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Master:

An expert who has achieved Level 3.

  • Master 563 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 15, 2013
Chris Weiser
Master
Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Master:

An expert who has achieved Level 3.

Joined: Apr 08, 2013
Answers
563
Questions
0
Helped
162479
Points
1650

Next time the engine light comes on, get the codes pulled and get back to me

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 160 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 12, 2008

SOURCE: check engine light coming on

valve body issue with trans

Ad

Jerry Parmanand

  • 449 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 17, 2008

SOURCE: 2005 lincoln town car limo 70 inch stretch

check your EGR valve. have a nice day

Anonymous

  • 4669 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 11, 2009

SOURCE: car forces me to slow down

I doubt it is a speed sensor. It is in the transmission near the passenger side cv axle. Have you scanned it for codes? You can do it with a paperclip.

Anonymous

  • 1187 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 25, 2009

SOURCE: Traveling at an estimated speed of 70 mph, car

No fire? There probably is fire, but out of time or some liquid (water, oil, PS fluid, etc.) got into the distributor cap and the rotor fire is shorting (sparking) to ground through the liquid.
Check spark anyway, pull a plug cable and set down on metal part of engine ground. Ahve someone crank starter while you look for spark from end of sparkplug cable to ground.
Let us know...

Testimonial: "Slowly but surely we're getting there! Thanks for the suggestions. The first comment about timing pointed us the right way. Overlooked that at first."

KCGTODAD

Shannon L Washam

  • 169 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 02, 2010

SOURCE: Transmission issue? Or worse?

Hello! Although the symptoms you've described could be a result of quite a few things, I have a few questions that might help determine your problem.

1) What year/make/model did the new transmission come from?
2) Is the SES (Service Engine Soon) light on? Is it blinking?
3) Was this transmission a rebuilt or used unit?
Some possibilites:
- you could have a faulty TPS - or Throttle Position Sensor.
- you could have a problem with the input shaft piston being worn. (Hence the used vs. refurb trans question). Once the inner sealing area wears it can prevent the inner lip seal for the piston from sealing properly. You may find that revving the engine up will finally get the car to move and it will BANG into gear. This is because the pump in the transmission is working harder and moving more fluid thus allowing the added fluid to overcome the leak which prevented the clutch from either initially applying or staying applied. Another area of concern that causes this is a boost valve in the valve body, not near as common but it can cause this problem on a lessor scale.

- Trouble Code P0742 TCC Stuck ON:
When this trouble code is set the pcm will command max TCC and lock adaptive shifting. This code can be broken down into three potential problem areas as found to be common in the field.

1. This problem can be a mechanical problem. Possible causes of this could be a bad or stuck TCC switch that signals the pcm of current TCC operation. Another cause though not common is a stuck TCC switch or apply valve. If it is physically stuck in the wrong position it can cause the TCC to be stuck on all the time and even kill the engine when the vehicle is put into gear.

2. This problem can be found to be an electrical problem. If the wire from the TCC pressure switch to the pcm is grounded anywhere in the path it can throw this code. This could be a wire shorted inside the trans on the internal wiring harness or the actual engine wiring harness. If the wire is grounded the pcm thinks that TCC is on when it shouldnt be and will throw the code.

3. This problem can be a hydraulic problem. This is the most common cause of this code that I have found and stems back to a clogged TCC solenoid, not because it failed. Excessive debris in the transmission or a failing torque converter lockup clutch can cause the solenoid to have debris stuck inside and this causes a restriction in fluid flow through the solenoid. If the solenoid can not bleed off the pressure the TCC can be stuck on. If the wrong TCC solenoid is installed during an overhaul this problem can also arise as a late 4L60E solenoid is identical but does not operate the same and acts like a clogged solenoid. As mentioned in problem #1 a stuck TCC apply valve is a physical problem but causes a hydraulic problem because the fluid pressure will not properly bleed off because the valve is stuck in the wrong position instead of being able to move freely in the bore of the valve body.
Above are the common causes of this code, there are other possibilities but those are what generally causes the fault. A thorough diagnosis is the only way to determine what is really at fault and a new TCC solenoid should never be assumed as the actual problem until verified.


HTH - and thanks for using FixYa!

-KCGTODAD

Testimonial: "Excellent feedback, thanks!"

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1helpful
1answer

What is the maximum speed pontiac fiero 1983

In December 1983, Car and Driver clocked a four-speed Fiero SE from 0-60 mph (0-97 kph) in an uninspiring 11.3 seconds, reaching a top speed of 105 mph (169 kph).

Pontiac Fiero The Definitive History

Below are speeds related to 1984 and above.
Fiero Top Speed once and for all
0helpful
1answer

Idles fine, but at 35 mph and above why won't it hold speed?

That should still be under a warranty!

Acceleration problem - is it so tough? - Car Forums and Automotive ...

www.automotiveforums.com > ... > Buick > Century
Once I reach wanted cruising speed of 35 mph or above (and the car ... At that point I keep pressing pedal slowly but car does not accelerate or needs eternity to speed ...Fuel pressure within specs (40 psi in idle) and fuel pressure regulator holds ... "The 3100 V-6 engine is mated to a 4T60E four-speed automatic overdrive ...
0helpful
1answer

2002 protege periodically shakes between 50-60 mph, then stops when go less than 40 mph

possible a wheel alignment possibly from the rear wheels and loose/worn suspension rubbers
0helpful
1answer

04 saturn L300 acceleration dies

run the fault codes first to check for faulty sensors
what you describe indicates a problem in the exhaust in that when the exhaust gas volume reaches a certain level the sensors are reporting it and the ECM is not able to fix it
have an accredited exhaust shop check the cat converter
for failure and partially blocking the exhaust at speed
if it was a fuel pump you would run into problems long before the speed at which it occurs
AT best it could be an EVAP problem with the vent not working properly but I think that it is exhaust related
1helpful
1answer

Obd2 system rediness status won't clear so I can run the smog test due to replacing the battery.

takes a long time to run the rediness test since there are 6 different tests to complete...

PROCEDURE 1
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SYSTEM LEAK MONITOR
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 30°C (75°F) or less (The engine is stopped before the test drive is started).
Atmospheric temperature: 5 - 30°C (41 - 113°F).
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Fuel remained in fuel tank: 30 - 50% is recommended.
Time required: 16 minutes or less after started the engine.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position. Well be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 89 km/h (55 mph) or more and travel for 16 minutes.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position.

PROCEDURE 2
FUEL TRIM MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 100°C (212°F) or less.
Atmospheric temperature: -10 - 60°C (14 - 140°F).
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 30 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 89 km/h (55 mph) or more and travel for 30 minutes.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 3
CATALYTIC CONVERTER MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Atmospheric temperature: -10°C (14°F) or more.
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Engine coolant temperature: Not set.
Time required: 16 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
Travel for 300 seconds or more while keeping the vehicle speed at 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
Decelerate until the vehicle speed is within 80 km/h (50 mph) or less.
While traveling at 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) for 10 minutes or more, fully close the throttle at least once in 2 minutes and decelerate for 10 seconds or more.
Do not repeat deceleration too often.
Vehicle speed may go below 56 km/h (35 mph) after the deceleration.
Stopping and braking are permitted. (If stopped or drive at 56 km/h (35 mph) or less for more than 5 minutes the monitoring may be stopped. In this case please restart monitoring from the beginning.)
After completing the above deceleration, bring the vehicle speed back to 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) and keep it in the range until starting the deceleration again.
Repeat the above deceleration at least 5 times.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 4
HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 100°C (212°F) or more.
Atmospheric temperature: -10°C - 60°C (14 - 140°F) or more.
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 16 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph).
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) and travel for 16 minutes or more.
Stopping and braking during this operation are permitted. Keep the accelerator opening degree constant for 1 minute or more after each acceleration.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 5
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) SYSTEM MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 100°C (212°F) or less.
Atmospheric temperature: 5 - 60°C (41 - 140°F).
A/C switch: OFF.
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 16 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph).
While traveling 16 minutes or more at 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) with engine speed 2,000 r/min or above, fully close the throttle at decelerate for 5 seconds or more until the engine speed reaches 1,000 r/min or under.
Do not repeat deceleration too often.
Stopping and braking are permitted (Rapid deceleration and sharp steering are not permitted).
After completing the deceleration, bring the vehicle speed back to 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) and keep it in the range until starting the deceleration again.
Repeat the above deceleration at least 8 times by fully closing the throttle valve.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 6
OTHER MONITOR (Main Components, Sensors & Switches, Wire Breakage & Short Circuit)
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature:
100°C (212°F) or less (Except engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
30°C (86°F) or less (Engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
Atmospheric temperature:
5°C (41°F) or more (Except engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
-10°C (14°F) or less (Engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 21 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 56 km/h (35 mph) or more.
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 56 km/h (35 mph) or more and travel for 16 minutes or more.
Return the vehicle to the shop.
After stopping the vehicle, continue idling for 5 minutes, and then turn the ignition switch to the "LOCK" (OFF) position. Moreover, the vehicle should be set to the following conditions for idling.
A/C switch: OFF
Lights and all accessories: OFF
Transmission: Neutral
0helpful
1answer

My 2003 Mazda Protege has 111,700 miles and makes a roaring noise with some vibration at around 20 mph but goes away when I accelerate to higher speeds. I have 17 inch custom rims with low profile tires on...

Bring in the car to a PROFESSIONAL shop. Mention your problem & ask about a wheel balance, alignment & make your problem clear before any work is done. Mention bearings etc. Ive dealt w millions of csrs at my own private shop & that would be your best approach. NO JIFFY LUBE TYPE SHOP
0helpful
1answer

Oscillating vibration around 60-70 mph in 6th gear

sounds like a cv joint to me. That is what usually occurs when one is showing wear. C.V joints usually wear out between 80,000 and 120,000 k.m.
0helpful
1answer

Transmission knocks at 20-30 mph and 40 mph, like it can't shift.

Well if you would elaborate some more on what kind of car you have,...that would be helpful as my ESP is very low today....
0helpful
1answer

Car forces me to slow down

I doubt it is a speed sensor. It is in the transmission near the passenger side cv axle. Have you scanned it for codes? You can do it with a paperclip.
0helpful
1answer

1.6 Automatic Jumps When Accelerating From Rest - GB Oil Prob?

your transmission is gone... i had the same problem.. be carfull you may loose first gear.... check your fluid level.. that might cause it... to do that you have to worm up the tranny then there is a square head bolt on bottom side off passenger side... leave car running. pull the bolt and keep an oil pan underneath... that happened to me. i left it for to long and ended up blowing the tranny. i got a rebuild and i was told i had too much fluid. i hope that helps..
Not finding what you are looking for?

563 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Cars & Trucks Experts

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

john h

Level 3 Expert

29494 Answers

Arnie Burke
Arnie Burke

Level 3 Expert

7339 Answers

Are you a Car and Truck Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...