Vibration in 1999 S-10 I have replaced the u joints and outer wheel bearings. with the rear end elevated the truck in gear I still have a vibration. I removed the rear half of the drive shaft and run

You might have a bad bearing in the tranny or rear end or you might have snapped a steel belt on one of your tires if tires are fine I would go for input bearing in the rear end first you will need to pick up an input seal as well. Let me know if this helps.

If a hub bearing was bad, it almost always would make noise, more so when changing lanes at higher speed. Outer CV joints make a loud low pitched rattle when turning (corners). Inner CV joints raise hell at high speed- bad shake! Sway links affect cornering and clunk when hitting rough patches of road surface.
Is the vibration worse at 65 than at 50? If so, you are dealing with a wheel balance situation. Find an old time front end shop that will check the balance on the vehicle. You will have to turn off the traction control to do this or use an on-the-car wheel balancer.
If you feel it at some low speeds at it comes back at other higher speeds, then you are dealing with tire roundness. Possible more than 1. More common than we would like.

GET IT TO A MECHANIC!! Something is loose or about to collapse! Remember that vibration and noise can travel away from the source so get the mechanic to start in that corner.
You need to get the following checked!
-Prop shaft mountings at transfer box.
-Prop shaft mountings at differential.
-Prop shaft bearings.
-Differential condition and oil level.
-Drive shafts at differential end.
-Drive shafts at the wheel end.
-All flexing joints in the system including UV joints and CV joints.

2006 Mazda 3


Applies to 2006 Mazda Mazda3:
Available engines
4 Cylinders 2.0L MFI DOHC
4 Cylinders 2.3L MFI DOHC


Could be a number of things - you're going to end up checking the entire car.

Off the top of my head:
a) exhaust component has rusted loose (usually catalytic converter heat shield). Any loose exhaust component (hanger/muffler, etc.) will vibrate at idle.
b) glove compartment door - loose hinge
c) motor mount - rubber part of metal/rubber mount vibrates loose & falls out.
d) transmission mount - ditto.

The Maintenance manual for your car says:

Clicking noise at idle or driving
--------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Main (Crankshaft) Bearing - Excessive Bearing Clearance.
1 Inspect Rod Bearing - Incorrect Rod or Main Bearing Clearances.
2 Inspect Rocker Arm - Worn or Incorrectly Adjusted Rocker Arm(s).
3 Inspect Piston Ring Set - Worn or Broken Piston Rings.
4 Inspect Piston - Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Piston.
5 Inspect Fuel Line Assembly - Fuel Line Leaking.
6 Inspect Hose Clamp - Loose or Missing Fuel Line Clamps.

Tapping noise at idle
------------------------------
1 Inspect Valve Lifter - Insufficient Oil Supply.
2 Inspect Fan Blade - Broken, Missing, or Faulty Fan Blade(s).
3 Inspect Oil Pump Screen - Clogged Oil Pump Screen.
4 Inspect Oil Pump Drive Gear - Damaged or Faulty Oil Pump Drive Gear.
5 Inspect Exhaust Valve(s) - Burned, Worn, or Sticking Exhaust Valves.
6 Inspect Oil(Crankcase)Capacity - Lifters Need Additional Lubrication.
7 Inspect Oil Filler Cap - Oil Filler Cap Damaged or Missing.
8 Inspect Oil Pump - Damaged or Faulty Oil Pump.
9 Inspect Oil Filter - Old or Clogged Oil Filter.
10 Inspect Oil FLow Check Valve - Damaged or Faulty Oil FLow Check Valve Caused Loss of Oil Pressure.

Vibration while Accelerating
-----------------------------------------
1 Inspect CV Half-Shaft (Remanufactured) CCT - Worn or Damaged CV Half-Shaft.

vibration while braking
--------------------------------
1 Inspect Brake Rotor - Warped or Uneven Brake Rotor Surface.

Vibration while driving - entire vehicle
-----------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Brake Rotor Specs - Warped or Uneven Brake Rotor Surface.
2 Inspect Ball Joint-Lower - Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Ball Joint.
3 Inspect Ball Joint-UPPER - Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Ball Joint.
3 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Front - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.
5 Inspect Tie Rod End - Worn or Damaged Tie Rod Ends.
6 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.
7 Inspect Wheel Hub Bearing - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Hub Bearing.

Vibration in rear axle area while driving
-----------------------------------------
1 Inspect U-Joint - Loose, Worn, or Damaged U-Joint.
2 Inspect Driveshaft - Bent, Loose or Unbalanced Driveshaft.
4 Inspect Differential Drive Pinion - Worn, Damaged or Broken Pinion Teeth.
4 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.
5 Inspect Pinion Bearing - Worn or Damaged Pinion Bearings or Yolk Shaft.


Vibration in steering wheel while driving
---------------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.

Vibration in tire/wheel area while driving
------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Front - Incorrectly Tightened or Installed Wheel Bearing.

Vibration under vehicle while driving
---------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect U-Joint - Loose, Worn, or Damaged U-Joint.
2 Inspect Muffler - Damaged or Burned Out Muffler.

Vibration in rear wheeel area while driving
------------------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.

Rev the engine while out of gear , if vibration check units driven by fan belts. if no vibration and is front wheel drive, check joints on both drive shafts, if rear wheel drive check front and rear tail shaft u / joints, check wheel balance or out of round tyre .

sounds to me like u need new u-joints

check ball joints, tie rod ends, inner and outer. sway bar links and bushings. shock mounts (bearing plate). control arm bushings.

If the wheel is in balance and there is no other signs of what is causing the vibration than yes that cv joint should be chk. Is the strut ok? might want to chk. that too.

Jack up the front end and put stands under it and block rear wheels. Look at axle boots and see if they are cracked. Try turning wheel back and forth sharply and see if you can hear any clicking. Problem could be outer axle joints. If the boots are cracked or you hear a clicking noise you will have to replace the axle. The axle and boot come as a complete unit. Please let me know what you find out.

Sounds a lot like a wheel balance problem, Does vibration go away over 55? In checking driveshaft joints...If you looked at them with the vehicle in park with the wheels on the ground, the shaft is "loaded" and cannot be correctly checked. To do this properly, vehicle should be in neutral with both rear wheels off the ground. Sometimes a joint can appear to be tight but still be bad. Check for traces of powdered rust around the rubber boots right where the end caps meet the cross on the inside. Any rust there indicates lack of grease and the likelyhood that the joint is frozen.
Check both balance and joints. Good luck.
Don't forget to rate my answer after you find the problem.