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resonance at rpm when stationary can only come from those parts rotating
That limits the noise source down to the engine and transmission
Starting with the engine , the most obvious noise sources are the idler pulley bearings , water pump bearings , power steering pump, ac compressor pulley bearings (compressor if activated), drive belt-loose or failing and harmonic balancer rubber failing
There may be a noise source from a worn/loose timing chain and that noise will be as a harmonic rattle
moving on to the transmission
If manual , bearing noise can be determined by the application of the clutch
Throw out bearing noise will stop or get worse with the clutch depressed and gear /bearing noise will stop with the clutch depressed
Probably not a lot of help as the description of resonance is wide open to harmonic--rattle , whirring, hum or even loose material in the exhaust system such as failed cat converter moving around
If it is a 'squealing' noise it's probably the alternator/power steering drive belt. Before you turn on the engine in the morning, lightlt smear or spray some oil on the inside of the drive belt to lubricate it. If the squealing stops/disappears, then that's the fault ..
That squealing noise can be caused by an incorrectly tensioned belt, or a worn belt. Replacement is the only option.
The other frightening sounds can best be described as 'rattles' or 'tapping'. When a car stands overnight all the oil drains back into the sump (oil/pan).
There are two things (usually) that can be cause the rattle/tap:
1. Because the oil hasn't been pumped around the system, at start up worn big end bearings can rattle and tap on the crankshaft until the oil 'fills the gaps'. The tapping/rattling goes away as the engine warms and oil is pumped around the lubricating system.
A 'bottom end tapping' is a symptom of worn big ends (they are bearings at the bottom of the piston and fit around the crankshaft).
2. A rattle/tapping from the top of the engine can either be a worn camshaft or 'lazy tappets'. Again, when the engine warms and oil gets to the camshaft and tappets (also called 'hydraulic lifters) the noise will disappear.
If your car has this rattling/tapping noise - identify whether it is coming from just under the rocker box (ie the camshaft/tappets..) or the bottom end of the engine (big end bearings).
If the noise is coming from the top of the engine, try an oil change with a can of thick 'additive' included. A lazy tappet (lifter) isn't too much to worry about. A worn camshaft will affect the performance of the engine, though continue to do its job. An oil change with an additive included may help in quitening things down.
A bottom end tap/rattle (or 'knock') - the sooner that is sorted out the better.
could have a bad water pump or one of the pulleys or a bad wheel bearing should take to shop and let them check it out they should be able to tell u what it is
Hi there.
First thing to do is drive the car and when you start hearing the rattle,
lightly touch the brakes.This
effectively loads up the callipers and drive shafts.If the noise goes away, you might have
rattling calliper pins (even new Honda’s suffer with this) or it might be
either the inner or outer drive shaft couplings (more likely the outer drive
shaft couplings) which may be cracked or badly worn.It could be 100 things but as a tip, get
yourself a very good inspection lamp and check every nut and bolt connected to
the suspension, brakes and engine support systems.You should be looking for signs of wear,
rubbing and also rusting around and on joints – that’s a good indicator that
things are not tight.Hope this helps.
Scottech
Have your egr valvle checked, if not operating properly it can cause engine 'pinging' which sounds like what u are describing. Let me know how it goes. countrycurt0
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