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My engine oil light comes on when i accelerate but theres enough oil. my car is not running the same its starting to kick back when i put into reverse and when i press the breaks
NO I TOOK IT TO THE SHOP ON FRIDAY TO GET A DIAGNOSTIC FOR EVERYTHING AND THEY SAID I NEED A NEW FLEXPIPE AND A OIL CHANGE BUT I DO THINK ITS MY OIL PUMP BECAUSE MY PERSONAL MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT IT WAS. WELL LETS SEE WHAT HAPPENS ON MONDAY WHEN I GET THE CAR BACK... THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELPNO I TOOK IT TO THE SHOP ON FRIDAY TO GET A DIAGNOSTIC FOR EVERYTHING AND THEY SAID I NEED A NEW FLEXPIPE AND A OIL CHANGE BUT I DO THINK ITS MY OIL PUMP BECAUSE MY PERSONAL MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT IT WAS. WELL LETS SEE WHAT HAPPENS ON MONDAY WHEN I GET THE CAR BACK... THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP
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Is the engine getting louder? You most likely have a bad oil sending unit or a failed oil pump. Have a pressure test done on the oil system. If its low it's time for a new motor...or a new car.
Sadly, all my experiences with Audi's have been horrid.
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check or replace fuel filter for clogging up. if it does clog up, then you will not get enough fuel to engine to run it properly. it will stall at stops, and be very sluggish on takeoff. check fuel pressure if need be. could also be a bad catylist convertor. so check above first. Rent a fuel pressure
guage from advance or oreilley's and check fuel pressure if needed. they will tell you the proper fuel pressure for your car.
To reset the oil change reminder light with the accelerator pedal, turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Do not start engine. After turning the ignition ON, depress the accelerator pedal fully to the floor and let it up again 3 times within 5 seconds. The oil change reminder light should flash a few times to let you know that it is resetting. If it does not flash, turn the switch OFF and repeat the procedure. After it flashes, turn the ignition switch OFF. Then start the engine. The light should come on for a bulb check then go out and stay out.
Slowly fully press and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 5 seconds. The reset is complete when the chimes sound and the "CHANGE OIL" lamp goes out. If the lamp stays on and no chime is heard, repeat the reset procedure.
Turn the key to "OFF".
If the "CHANGE OIL" lamp comes back on when the vehicle is started, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
Then what? It stays on forever. Comes on for just a second? You watch it till it goes out----you know just like the refrigerator light. But how do you know it's off when the door is closed? Man, you could spend you whole day at this. If the oil light comes on after it's running......now there's a problem.
Clearly not enough info to comment on this. Who cares if the light comes on when the engine is off. It's not running, it doesn't need oil.Quick, when the motor is off, and you've reached your destination. Unass the seat.
I have only seen this happen once in my entire life...as it happens it was to one of my own cars (also a chrysler product) Normally if asked I'd say that oil pumps don't fail. BUT, it is possible that the drive gear on the pump has become just loose enough on the shaft that when pumping hard, it will spin slower and result in the conditions you mentioned. To test it you need to actually take the pump apart and put the shaft in a vise and try to turn the gear with a pair of waterpump pliers Bottom line is: change the pump.
I had a similar problem with my 2003 Sante Fe (intermittant problem, the light went off when I accelerated). I took it to the dealership. They looked for a bad send oil switch (not the problem) as well as some other possible culprits but could not, at first, find what was causing the light to come on (but they did confirm that I had low oil pressure). So, they took the engine apart. What it was was the pan was "dented" upwards, so that less oil was able to come in. It wasn't the bearings. It wasn't the crank case. It wasn't the oil pump. So, they fixed the dent, put everthing back together and . . .it worked! The light went off and stayed off. It cost $337 in labor. I was very very very relieved.
(Apologies if this explanation is hard to follow-I'm no mechanic and am basing my response on my understanding of the mechanic's explanation).
NO I TOOK IT TO THE SHOP ON FRIDAY TO GET A DIAGNOSTIC FOR EVERYTHING AND THEY SAID I NEED A NEW FLEXPIPE AND A OIL CHANGE BUT I DO THINK ITS MY OIL PUMP BECAUSE MY PERSONAL MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT IT WAS. WELL LETS SEE WHAT HAPPENS ON MONDAY WHEN I GET THE CAR BACK... THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP
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