Need a engine wiring diagram for a 95 Mustang Cobra 302. Alternator is not charging and the wiring harness was hacked in by previous owner.

Question edited for full 'year make model'.

Check out the link

https://www.google.com/search?q=1995+Chevrolet+C2500+wiring+diagram

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First check the light switch and brake switch. Under driver side is the rear light harness. Go to advance auto get a HAYES REPAIR MANUAL for mustang for that year I think they are all the same.

stock car YJ ? , or all hacked up. (old cars get hacked)
2.5 or 4.0 liter engine? still have a real jeep alternator not upgraded?

loss of electrical power (first rule, we never need to guess.!!!)
not with a voltmeter. (tool that costs $20 )
alternator good (by what means, autozoned?) ( we can find out one car)
but low on gauge. what gauge in dash voltmeter.? sure...
i think you car has no charge lamp only the dash VM.

own an volt meter? a DMM? hand volt meter?

1: if the alternator charge lamp is stuck on driving.
2: is battery voltage at 13.3 to 15vdc with engine at 800 RPM idling
alternator belt not slipping, for sure.....???
if the battery voltage is near 12.5v and falling running that is
an Alternator system failure, note i said, system. !!!

this is first. if we get to here. we can find the real cause.
test 3:
is the charge lamp on keyon, and goes out running?
make sure the big fuse for the alternator in the engine bay fuse
box is not blown, 50amp?

I have no 95 FSM and my online source sucks for 95

Alternator dead: (alt good)
1: belt slipping . engine at 300rpm, nah.
2: fuse blown, the big one. (engine bay fuse box)
3: ;wrong alternator, there are many, most others will fail, even good ones.......
4: alternator ground bad. (end to end, to battery minus)
5: bad wiring to same. bad connections, any to battery or alt.
6: some jeeps the PCM has the field regulator, see link below.
ECU pin 20 , is field pin, it is on 95, 4.0L (engine not stated)

is the CEL lamp on, and throwing code 41 DTC?, alt, field errors?

the alt has 4 pins, battery, field,ground and voltage sense.
The reg is in the PCM. and if bad is a bad $3 transistor..
see same form for fix for that issue..

i think this is same as your. 1996 is big change year.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/1993-wrangler-pcm-ecu-ecm-pin-out-diagram-1170004/


you can test the alt, PCM wire pulled !, by full fielding the alt.
grounding the field term, no wires on field pin of alt.
see FSM for details on that.
The PCM modulates the field pin to control charge at all times.

First off, disconnecting athe battery while the engine is running is the quickest way to damage an alternator. Unlike the old DC generators, the alternator needs the battery in circuit to protect it against voltage runaway.

If the alternator has been bench-tested and seems to be functional, I would start by verifying the related vehicle circuits. Witch a DC voltmeter, start out by measuring the voltage at the alternator's output terminal, the heavy black/orange wire. It should be full battery voltage. If it is anything less than battery voltage, you must determine why. Some things to look at are the gray 12-gauge fusible links A & B, and the various splices and connections in the circuit (see diagram below).

Next, disconnect the voltage regultor harness plug from the alternator and check the voltage at the wiring harness regulator plug's "A" terminal connector - the yellow/white wire. It too should be full battery voltage. If it is anything less than full battery voltage, you must determine why. In this case, look at the 20-amp ALT fuse in the battery junction box, and at the various splices and connectors in that circuit.

Then, turn the key switch to its "RUN" position and measure the voltage
at the wiring harness regulator plug's "I" terminal connector - the light green/red wire. It should be somewhere between 8 and 12 volts. If there is no voltage present, check Fuse 5 (15 amps) in the main fuse panel and the various connections in that circuit.

The final test is to measure the voltage between the batterty positive terminal and the alternator housing or frame. If it is anything less than full battery voltage, check the alternator mounting.

Hi, this is a 2 wire Delco alternator. The wire from the terminal on the back goes to the battery or starter, and the other (excite) wire goes to the battery light in the dash. It also goes to the PCM--not sure which pin, sorry.

Make sure the alternator main wire(the large one) is showing 12 volts,with the key off,if it is not,this is the problem,just run a wire as big,or larger than the one that is on there already.

1995 Ford Mustang 4.6 liter DOHC V-8 Cobra



Hope this help (remember rated this). Good luck.

You'll need the K-member from a 94'-95' v6 or GT, along with the correct motor mounts. once you have that it should drop right in. But there are many more parts you'll need to make it work like a 5.0 tranny, exhaust, wiring, pcm, radiator, and maybe more. Look in the Ford Racing catalog and drop a 4.6L Cobra motor in there. A lot fewer parts to buy. Also if your state has car inspections the 5.0 is not OBDII, and should only be attempted if its going to be a "race only" car.

Try your local library for diagrams and pictures of both engines and that way you can figure out how the wiring goes

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/