Clutch has no resistance, stays near floor after applying pressur

`Did it bleed, did fluid come out in a steady stream? Isn't there a spring to bring the pedal off the floor?
Check the linkage of the pedal to rod to the clutch master cylinder, make sure that is all together. Any chance the master has an internal leak and won't build hydraulic pressure down at the slave? If you get it bled, then watch the slave operation while someone works the clutch pedal. The piston on the slave should extend and push the clutch fork enough to disengage the clutch.

clutch pedals are suposed to go all the way to the floor , you sure you dont mean brake pedal (cus thats bad ! ) clutches should travel all the way to floor and release the "grab" of the engine about 2/3 down , this way they are more smoothly allowing shifting thru the gears and not jerking as you shift thru the gears , if clutch pedal does not start to "grab" the engines power by 2/3 off the floor and fully "grab"its power all the way up(slipping) ,and you have a hydraulic clutch (96's do) then the clutch disk may require replacement or there is a oil leak in the clutch/master/slave cylinder , look for small oil leaks from under car in area of foot pedals
clutches should be replaced as an assembly that includes , disk ,pressure plate, throwout bearing , with engine side clutch plate magnafluxed for heat cracks and any hydraulic oil leaks replaced or repaired

Probably bad clutch master cylinder and/or slave cylinder. I always replace both.

Is the clutch engaged now If you put it in netutral will it roll if so then put it in 1st gear will it roll .This will tell you if the pressure plate is engaged in short is the clutch on or off its like a light switch it grabs on it dosn't

the pedal freeplay should be about a quarter of an inch. This is the area the pedal travels before the first amount of pressure is applied. have you checked your clutch fluid? if its low you should scope for leaks, check the master cylinder and slave cylinder, pull back the rubber boot and check for any fluids. i would do this only if the fluid is low. have you had any clutch work done recently?

on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.

your clutch uses a hydraulic master and slave cylinder to disengage. It is likely that the slave has been leaking and the reservoir gone dry, thus allowing air into the system and reducing effectiveness. Check the clutch master cylinder reservoir (near the brake reservoir) fluid level. If low, also check the slave cylinder at the clutch for leakage. If leaking, replace the slave and bleed the system. If you need procedures or have more questions, please let us know.

A rattling noise from the transmission is never a normal condition no matter what anyone says, and the first thing to do is to check the transmission fluid level, but it sounds to me like the throw-out/release bearing is riding the clutch pressure plate, and when the clutch pedal is in the up position the throw-out/release bearing and the clutch pressure plate should not be touching each other, and the only time that they should make contact is to release the clutch disk in order to shift the transmission into gear. There should be about 1 to 2 inches of free play in the clutch pedal, and the clutch should start to grab within 1 to 2 inches of letting the clutch pedal up off of the floor, and if this is not the case you might need to have the clutch properly adjusted especially if the clutch does not start to grab until the clutch pedal is half way up from the floor. Also, the main bearing in the transmission could be going out due to low fluid, or a damaged pilot bearing that is allowing the transmission input shaft to wobble just enough to cause a rattle from the main bearing or even a vibration in the transmission.

A high clutch pedal is good.
There should only be about a half inch of pedal freeplay, before you start to feel resistance.
So the clutch should not engage until it is almost fully released, near the top.
The makes shifting the easiest.

If the shifting is difficult when cold, then put the transmission in neutral and let the clutch out when you warm up the engine.
That will warm up the transmission oil.

Of course you could also check the transmission oil level and change it.
But your question makes me believe you may need more experience on a stick shift. Make sure you do the H pattern carefully, and do not get lazy and turn it into an X pattern.

if it has a cable for clutch you need to adjust it. if its hydralic then the master cylinder may be not bleeding off properly when cold or slave sticks when cold. you need to measure pedal free play that is how far pedal goes down before resistance is felt there needs to be 1/2 to 1 inch or so free play to make sure that the release bearing isnt riding on the pressure plate [would be the same as riding the clutch] the 1/2 inch higher than brake pedal probem can be adjusted on the pedal stop but shouldnt be the problem. of course the clutch could be just plain worn out to.