1997 Ford Ranger 2.3L, 2-wheel-drive, manual trans., is hard to start: Typical Scenario--cold or warm engine: Occasionally will start on first attempt but usually takes 5-40 turns of the ignition key before starting: 1. an electrical clicking sound is heard from engine bay with each turn of the key then and the starter DOES NOT ENGAGE. 2. the power door locks will usually lock or unlock by themselves several times as I am turning the key in the ignition. 3. and then it eventually starts as I keep turning the key to engage the starter. Obviously it is not the battery! And when it does finally electrically engage the starter it is a firm fine clean quick start as though some genie finally flicked the kill switch back so I could start it! This must be a known concern!
I love my Rangers, and it sounds like you need a new starter drive, better know as the bendix. It is cheaper to buy a new starter. As far as the door locks, I would get the starter fixed first and the door lock problem may go away. sounds like the starter is dragging the power down and could cause a number of strange thing to happen. Hope I have help you solve your problem. I think It will.
The solution has been found. The concern was not the starter solonoid (the solonoid attached to the starter). The problem was a worn out starter relay solinoid. This puppy is located on the driver's side fender apron. It gets a relatively low voltage signal when you turn the ignition key and this relay solinoid then makes a connection between the 12 volt cable that attaches to it from the battery and then runs down to the starter (where there is the second solinoid that pushes the starter gear out into the flywheel so it can engage and turn over the engine. I used a higher quality replacement starter relay solonoid for the new unit and I still had to jury rig to make it fit right (had to cut some of the plastic housing), so you may wish to pay the extra $15 and get a perfect fit MotorCraft replacement. It starts every single time now in maybe a 1/2 second!
Thanks for everyones help on this. I also wanted to comment on the notorious Ford battery-cable-to-the-starter problems that affected millions of Ford vehicles in the mid 1990s like my Ranger. TO fix it just make sure the connections at the starter are sparkly clean & shiney by using a wire brush. I also added a little di-lectric grease (only a tiny bit is needed) to help ensure a good connection as I have had the truck just suddenly stop starting back in 2002 (after sitting for nearly 5 months as I was overseas). Somehow corrosion gets inbetween the cable and starter and its just enough to stop the connection. I started the truck by going underneath and wiggling the 12 volt cable to the starter!) Once the connections are clean and tightened it has never been a concern but I redid them again anyway to make sure that little genie was not the problem.
One way to check if the starter solonoid relay is starting to get fried and is what needs replacement is to jump the connections (between the battery cables of course) on the solonoid with a screwdriver with the key turned. It was kind of hard for me to do this and push down the clutch pedal (which has a switch to keep the engine from turning over if it is not pushed down) all at the same time, so as i was 95% the relay solinoid was the problem I just replaced it and bingo.
I already found the solution! It's at the top of my comments! I added a tiny photo but it will not upload no matter how small it is!
The poor interface here will not show my SOLUTION unless uou scroll up to it!
Click on "View Previous Comments" above!
×
SOURCE: 1996 Toy Tocoka ignition/starter
that is a starter solenoid problem.
starter has its own solenoid. the big round thing besides the real motor.
it has contacts inside which could be worn out .
that is why sometimes it make contact and sometimes not.
tnx 4 using fixya,
drcool
SOURCE: My '98 S10 ignition switch will click, then work.
first check all cables for corrosion on the battery. then go under the truck and check all cables that are on the starter. if they are clean then replace the starter because the solenoid is going bad.
SOURCE: 1996 Fleetwood Motorhome Start problem
First before we start buying any parts. Have someone tap the top of the starter solenoid on the pass side engine wall. Do this while you're turning the key.If it starts thats one problem out of the way. As far as the regulator and its condition the coach could have been asembled in several possible states and or countries. I've never seen two alike unless they were lined up at a dealership...lol. Just grab one of those 10 dollar meters and check the voltage at each battery while its running, while it's not running and while you are switched to dual mode.All may be well.or not. But you'll save a lot of time with that little meter.There is no practicle way(being a sealed unit) to actually check the regulator.Keep it simple and take your time. Good Luck. P.S. The alternator also has an internal regulator so run checks with the lights and fans on to make sure your getting sufficient voltage all the time. Thanks, Dana.
SOURCE: 1999 Camry; Starter won't work when engine is cold
There are contacts located inside the solenoid of the starter that fail with age.
As the contacts where down, the starter likes to 'stick' and can take
many tries to start, often requiring jostling like turning the wheel.
There are two options to correct this. The first obviously is to replace the starter.
To save some money you can replace the contacts instead.
Doing this requires unhooking your battery and removing the starter from the car.
Then remove the access plate on the back of the solenoid (3 8mm bolts), take out the plunger and spring. From there you can see the copper contacts, and how they have worn. Remove the 12m and 14mm on either side of the housing and push the bolts through to release the contacts and install new in the same order they came apart.
If you are taking this to a repair shop, be advised most independent shops will just try to sell you a $450 starter. Provide them these instructions or take it to a Toyota dealer and ask for "starter contacts" and they will know exactly what you need.
SOURCE: ignition switch problem 2000 town and country
you need new ignation switch
Testimonial: "everything works after replacing the switch - it seems all it was a piece of plastic missing on the tip of the switch - thanks"
520 views
Usually answered in minutes!
there is No Kill switch on the truck!
The Solution was Found by the Man who posted the Question (that's me)! Simply click on "View Previous Comments" above, and I explain how to fix the problem! It was caused by a failing starter relay solenoid located near the battery in the engine compartment--NOT the "starter solenoid" attached to the starter itself. The concern was not
the starter solenoid (the solenoid attached to the starter). This starter relay solenoid is located on
the driver's side fender apron, not far from the battery--just follow the battery cable to find it! The starter relay solenoid gets a relatively low voltage signal
when you turn the ignition key and this relay solenoid then makes a
connection between the 12 volt cable that attaches to it from the
battery down to where it connects to the starter (where there is the second
"starter solenoid" that pushes the starter gear out into the flywheel so it can
engage and turn over the engine).--In this way there does not need to be a thick 12 volt cable running all the way up to the ignition switch and back to the starter! I used a higher quality replacement
starter relay solenoid for the new unit and I still had to jury rig to
make it fit right (had to cut some of the plastic housing), so you may
wish to pay the extra $15 and get a perfect fit Motor-Craft replacement.
It starts every single time now in maybe a 1/2 second! If my solution helped you please let me know...( I have a picture of the starter relay solenoid and its exact location, but Fixya does not allow even the smallest size photos to upload. I'll try again to see if it works, but if not, it's easy to find and replace the part as described above.).
The SOLUTION is located above in the Question section. It was the starter relay solenoid that caused the no engine turn-over concern--see my comments above.
×