My alternator is draining my battery ive replaced all wires checked my grounds the only wire left is the L wire i tore my dash apart tried a jumper wire everything i could think of my alt was reading 11.34 volts an my battery lower
SOURCE: wiring problem
Check the fusible links at the starter. One of them may be burned. You mentioned that it shuts down when you turn a corner. Check the wiring going to the ignition switch under the steering column, you may have a loose wire there as well.
SOURCE: 84 CK TRK, 2500, 5.7L 55,000 miles have replaced
On some of the older style GM's you can take that brown wire and cut it and take the end leading from the alternator and hook it directly to the hot terminal on the alternator and just leave it hooked up and it will work. But I have ran into the occasional problem where leaving it hooked up will drain the battery when the vehicle isn't running. Hope this helps..
Testimonial: "I fixed the problem - the terminal at the brown wire was corroded - after cleaning and recrimping - everything works - thanks for the heads up"
SOURCE: 1996 chev cavalier, both left side headlights quit
there is a harness that runs along the bottom of the radiator that has solider connections in it and over time they break apart. pull wires out of loom and find the corroded connection and solider or use a **** connector to fix. while you have it apart you should redo all the solider joints.
SOURCE: alternator is not charging battery. checked wiring
the voltage regulator is prbably at fault here. with a voltmeter, test battery before and after you turn the engine on. before should read +/- 12.9 volts and while running, should read between 14 and 16 volts. the voltage regulator is in the alternator.
SOURCE: electrical problems: first the starter
I don't know what type of vehicle, model or year, but it sounds like a blown fusible link. This is not a fuse, but acts like one. They are generally wired in at the starter after the positive cable connection (again I don't know what vehicle). Sometimes they are wired directly off the battery at the positive cable. On the trucks they can be at the firewall R/S relay center. Regardless, most fuse panels, alternators and cooling fans are controlled by a fusible link. By you jumpering the fuse boxes you are just taking place of the blown link. They are usually in-line (mostly large red positive wires. They can be a black bulge in the wire or just covered with black heat shrink. Follow all the leads from the battery and locate them. Test after the fusible link for power (use a test light if availible).
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