Battery light on,positive lead 130 degrees

P0344: Camshaft Position Sensor Intermittent Interruption Bank 1 Sensor 1 http://www.autocodes.com/p0344_dodge.html

Sensor location:
2006 dodge stratus crankshaft position sensor location Google Search

Generally that indication implies generator failure. Generator failure can come in multiple forms. A faulty ground will cause the generator not to charge and potentially burn it up. A severed phase wind (remember, your alternator is really a three-phase generator with a six pulse front end rectifier set) will cause the light to intermittently come on along with weak charging output. A voltage regulator failure will cause zero field current in the rotor. A brush failure will also cause a generator failure light to come on and stay on. A rectifier failure (any of the six) will cause the generator not to charge properly and turn on the MIL and generator failure indicator (looks like a battery). The condition of the battery can also cause generator failure, if the battery is defective (buckled plates, weak electrolyte, low water, etc.) it will place a very high load on the generator continuously, causing it to 'full field' the rotor which can cause the rotor to overheat and fail. Never run a generator without the battery terminals connected as this will cause it to fail quite spectacularly. Do not attempt to verify output of the generator with the battery terminal leads disconnected.

If generator failure is indeed the cause, find out why. Generators rarely fail. When they do, it usually is caused by poor ground connections, corroded battery terminals, high continuous loads, electrical faults and poorly-wired ancillary equipment, such as head units, amplifiers, inverters, etc. Always check all these out when replacing the generator. Never run a generator without the battery terminals connected as this will cause it to fail quite spectacularly.

The battery light means the alternator is not charging the battery. The charging system would need to be checked out when the light is on.

My 2003 dodge diesel truck would loose all power while driving. I did have bad ground battery cables, thought it might be that changed them. Still did it. If my truck sat in the winter to long the batteries would go bad. Change them. Nothing. Changed to switch in the column still nothing. Next to the fuse box under the hood is a little positive terminal cap (it feeds power to the fuse box) I removed it to expose the screw. Then I followed the wire , it went straight to the positive battery cable terminal (it's molded into the terminal) I took a volt reading from the negative terminal to the positive bolt under the cap by the fuse box and took a reading (8 volts should be 12+) I took a jumper wire from the positive terminal of battery to the bolt under the cap and pow lights. I also noticed that the positive terminal would get hot before where the wire is molded into the lead must have a bad connection So I temporarily drove a screw right where the wire goes into the lead and problem temperately (probably just leave it) fixed. I'm so happy I hope this helps someone it took me a long time to fix this.

Best place to start is the positive lead on the battery . Remove the lead and clean battery pole and terminal using sand paper until you have shiny syrfaces. Replace the lead and tighten the terminal . Check the battery for charge condition as what you describe indicates a flat battery

You do not need to remove the battery to charge the battery. When you connect the charger you MUST be careful to connect the charger's positive lead to the positive terminal to the battery and the negative lead to the negative lead to the battery before you turn on the battery charger. Connecting the charger leads the wrong way around most likely damage the vehicle's electronics.
When you finish charging the battery turn off the charger before you disconnect the charger leads. This will prevent arcing between the leads and the battery.

The first thing you need to do is stop wasting your money by replacing parts. Then get a volt-ohm meter and a test light to test the circuits between the battery, the alternator, the ignition switch, the starter relay and the voltage regulator. (a.k.a. Charging System Circuits)

To start, the "B+" or "BATT" terminal on the alternator (large black wire) MUST have a solid, direct connection to the battery. Check for the proper voltage here. Then, the red wire on the alternator at the "F2" terminal should be HOT at all times. If not, you probably still have a bad fuse link that you missed. The "F1" terminal on the alternator (Light Green wire) is known as your "FIELD" wire. It comes from the "IG" terminal at the voltage regulator. It should be hot any time the key is in the ON position. If not, your voltage regulator is not working or your ignition switch is not providing power to the regulator. Finally, The "F" terminal (Red wire) at the regulator should be hot any time the ignition switch is in the ON position. This actually gets it's power from the starter relay, which gets its power from the ignition switch.

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My Car Won't Turn Over

The trunk latch is operated by a solenoid which it requires power to operate. since the battery is flat then it won't work. I'm not sure where the positive terminal is under the hood but you can connect the positive lead to the alternator wire terminal, and the negative lead can be connected any where on the engine.
Good luck......

There are only two problems with electrical circuits. Too much amperage or too little amperage.We have to determine what you have.
An excellent test is to put your test meter red lead on the positive battery post and the black lead on the negative battery post. Crank the engine and record the voltage. Then place the red meter lead on the starter's battery terminal and the black lead on the negative battery post. Again crank the engine and record the voltage. The two voltages should be with in one half volt of each other. If the voltage difference is greater that one half volt, there is a resistance in the circuit, somewhere. I would expect the voltage to drop a volt or two, max
If the voltage dosent drop, there is high resistance resulting in low amperage. If the voltage drops too low then there is low resistance resulting in high amperage.
High resistance=dirty terminals
Low resistance = shorted wire, slow turning cranking motor maybe caused by bad starter, bad battery or hard to turn engine. ( engine bad, alternator or power steering pump bad, a/c pump bad, etc)
Can use head light for test. Turn on lights and note the brightness. Crank engine. If while cranking, the lights stay bright= high resistance.
If lights go dim = low resistance.

I suppose this is what you want to know
The battery charger has 2 leads coming off it as well as the power lead to the external power source .THE TWO LEADS WITH CLAMPS ON GO TO THE BATTERY THE RED GOES TO THE POSITIVE TERMINAL PLUS SIGN AND THE BLACK GOES TO THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL.MINUS SIGN, THE POWER LEAD PLUGS INTO THE POWER. AND THAT IS ALL THERE IS TO IT..