It's leaking water not sealed correctly Radiator

Put some Bar Seal in it and don't worry where from. If you can't see where it is leaking, it may be leaking in the cylinder head. Is your oil okay?

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no
loosing water is a concern but the correct method before adding anything to the cooling system is to find the leak
A head gasket can be checked by a compression test
leaks can be determined by a cooling system pressure test
The leak can be from a rusted out welsh plug, water pump seal , radiator cor hole , heater core failure

Sometimes the leak can be so small it only leaks when driving.
It can be that the water pump was not sealed correctly or bolts not tighten enough or a hose clamp needs to be tighten more.

Vehicles: Any with the above symptoms

A cracked cylinder block will cause either:
(a) motor oil contamination of engine coolant
(b) coolant contamination of motor oil
(c) white exhaust smoke, due to coolant seeping into one or more cylinders.
(d) more than one of the above
(e) all of the above

Oil infiltrating into coolant is easy to see - drain some coolant out through the pepcock at the bottom of the radiator, and place it into a styrofoam coffee cup. Oil droplets floating on top of the green (or orange) coolant are easily seen. Or visualize oil by looking into the top of the radiator through the radiator cap.
Coolant infiltrating into and mixing with motor oil will permanently damage the engine (seizing it up through loss of lubrication), and must be prevented.
A leak from above the front suspension is, as physicians like to put it, "nonspecific", with the most likely cause a water pump seal or hose/hose connection.
A leak from near the fire wall will usually be a heater core hose, or hose connection.
A coolant leak on the same side of the engine as the water pump is a leaking water pump or water pump seal until proven otherwise.

To rule out everythng else, here's the 1999 Honda CR-V Troubleshooting Guide for Coolant Loss/Coolant Leaking:

Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Water Pump - Worn, Cracked or Leaking Water Pump, or Water Pump gasket.
2 Inspect Head Gasket - Leaking Head Gasket.
3 Inspect Radiator - Leaking Radiator Hose(s).
4 Inspect Radiator Cap - Worn or Damaged Radiator Cap.
5 Inspect Radiator Hose - Ruptured, Cracked or Leaking Radiator Hose.
6 Inspect Freeze Plug - Leaking Freeze Plug(s).
7 Inspect Intake Manifold Gasket - Leaking, Worn, or Damaged Intake Manifold Gasket.
8 Inspect Water Outlet - Cracked, Leaking or Damaged Water Outlet.
9 Inspect Heater Control Valve - Leaking or Faulty Heater Control Valve.
10 Inspect Radiator Drain Pepcock - Loose, Damaged, or Faulty Radiator Drain Pepcock, or Pepcock O-ring.
11 Inspect Engine (DOMESTIC ONLY) - Cracked Cylinder Block Leaking Coolant into at least one Cylinder, causing white exhaust smoke.

WAIT UNTIL YOUR ENGINE IS COLD,YOUR RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP IS LOCATED ON THE COOLANT OVER FLOW RESERVOIR, THATS WHERE YOU ADD COOLANT WHEN COOLANT LOW,YOU POUR COOLANT IN THE OVER FLOW RESERVOIR UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL REMAIN AT FULL COLD MARK DONT OVER FILL OVER FLOW RESERVOIR, WHEN COOLANT LEVEL STOP DROPPING WHEN ADDING COOLANT AND COOLANT LEVEL STAY AT COLD MARK ON THE RESERVOIR YOU RADIATOR HAS THE CORRECT COOLANT LEVEL IF COOLANT LEVEL KEEP DROPPING CHECK FOR COOLANT LEAKS AROUND RADIATOR AND THE TOP AND BOTTOM RADIATOR HOSES, LOOK FOR COOLANT LEAK AT WATER PUMP GASKET OR SEAL OR LEAK AT WATER PUMP WEEP HOLE IF YES REPLACE WATER PUMP.

make sure the engine is fully warmed up (check the temp gauge and feel the top hose from the radiator to the engine) that hose should be HOT and it you should NOT be able to calopse it-it should feel hard. If you do not have a leak under these conditions, you probably just have an overfull surge tank and it 'puked' out some fluid. If you top radiator hose is NOT hard after the engine is fully warmed up, you have something wrong-it could be as simple as a radiator cap that is not sealing properly, or a leaky hose, an intake manifold leak, or an internal leak in the engine (don't rule out a leaking radiator, it has end tanks that can and do leak).

Most radiator start draining water if there is microscopic leaks or punctures. The system is a sealed unit and is not supposed to drain unless there is huge pressure within due to heating that can release the pressure cap on the radiator to release water to the overflow tank.
So the radiator must be filled and allowed to stand and if there is loss after a day or after the engine is running for sometime , you must check the pressure cap or else there is fault on the radiator ASSUMING that the engine is working normal- timing and tuning in correct condition.

These cars are prone to small water leaks either within the block or around the radiator base. They are also difficult to refill correctly when the system has been drained as they will appear full but are really only part full due to airlocks caused by the system having hoses at higher levels than the fill point. Now you have refilled the system - watch the header tank for level - if it loses water at a very slow rate and you cannot find where the leak is - it is probably internal to the engine. Exactly what I had on my daughters mini !! .... I used ''K Seal'' in the end and have had no trouble or loss since. Make sure you check the coolant mix is still correct - as you have been adding water and this will dilute it ! .............. Hope this helps - good luck !

If it is in the front of the car it could be the radiator, a radiator hose or the water pump. If you can see that it is not the radiator or a hose, look under the snout of the water pump. There is a weep hole there that will leak anti-freeze when the seal is out of the pump.

If it is leaking at or slightly past the firewall on the passenger's side, then your heater core is leaking and will need to be replaced.

replace your radiator cap.