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Posted on Dec 17, 2017
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I had done over houling of my hundai crdi three cylinder,,, but after completing full overhouling my car stated now there are bubbles coming in the radiater why there are bubbles coming in the radiater can you explin was head was not face properly or there is head gas ket is not good original where is the problemr

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Lawrence Oravetz

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  • Hyundai Master 10,558 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 17, 2017
Lawrence Oravetz
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Joined: Jul 28, 2008
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The head gasket is allowing compression gas into the water jacket. Did you have the head ground flat before installing it on the head gasket?. Was the old head gasket completely removed from the block? It doesn't take much if a speck of old gasket remains on the block.

5 Related Answers

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on May 28, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 Hyundai Accent Overheating

well it would be a good guess that if u don't see a leak the coolant is going into the combustion chamber through a blown head gasket.

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Anonymous

  • 17 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 04, 2009

SOURCE: Water not staying in Radiator

yes, not having an overflow reservoir for your radiator will cause you to lose water. As your engine warms up the water expands and creates pressure in the cooling system. When the pressure reaches a certain point(usually about 15 psi.) the radiator releives the pressure by releasing water into the overflow tank. When the engine cools back down the water shrinks pulling water back into the radiator from the overflow. If there is no overflow, the everytime the engine warms up on a drive water will be lost and not recovered on cooldown.

Anonymous

  • 583 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 27, 2009

SOURCE: Water boiling out the bottle as the car overheat's

it is without doubt blown head gaskit,or cracked block---a quicktest at radiator centre will confirm this only takes a couple of minutes

mekanik84

  • 205 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 31, 2010

SOURCE: i have exhaust bubbling out of my radiator over

If you have excessive bubbling comming out of the radiator or overflow, its usually because of compression leaking into your cooling system caused by a blow head gasket or cracked block. If the watter pump isnt circulating coolant its most likely over boiling the coolant in the motor. Best suggestion is to leak down test the motor with the rad cap off. See if you're loosing pressure and if so, check if the pressure is comming out of the rad. If it is loosing pressure and comming out of there, you have one of the following issues above. If not repair the water pump, change the thermostat as well and re-check

Anonymous

  • 454 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 27, 2010

SOURCE: Radiator leaking and overheated. We replaced the

Hello Guest and thank you for asking your question, on Fixya.

Here is a simple process that will walk you through a few steps that will pinpoint the overheating problem on your 2001 Hyundai Elantra, without even using any tools. It has helped millions of people, and I am certain that it will help you, because I wrote it for people in your exact situation.
How to diagnose your overheating 2001 Hyundai Elantra
I am thinking something more along the lines of a burned up engine. It is possible that the starter was damaged, though.

Get more great (money saving) tips and tricks about your Hyundai from: twitter.com/acoates23234
*FYI - You can get all repair information about your Hyundai straight from the manufacturer at: hmaservice.com - Sign up is completely free.

Thanks for the vote, and good luck!

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Now the problem is that car s radiater is giving a bubbles and in radiater is giving a bubbles in hundai accent after uverhouling the engine , refinished and over houl the head and cylinder head where

Hi S, If the cylinder head is warped (which can happen if the cylinder head bolts were not removed in the correct order, more especially from a hot or warm engine) even if the correct tightening sequence and correct torque was used during assembly, the gasket can leak causing compression to leak into the radiator. If this info does not help, reply to me and give as many details as possible relating to all the work carried out on the engine and why that work was carried out. Also include all info regarding the engine type. Regards John
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You will need to BENCH BLEED your NEW MASTER CYLINDER.
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Hard time shifting. replaced clutch slave cylinder. still shifts hard. plenty of clutch fluid.

Sometimes the slave cylinder takes a little extra bleeding to remove the air in it & until it's all gone, the clutch won't open completely, causing the problem you are describing.

If the shifting can be done between all of the gears while the engine isn't running on level ground then the forks should be ok & not bent inside the transmission and you should be able to get the car to shift properly.

I've done several of these and found that if you start by making sure the Clutch Master cylinder is full, and remember when you add fluid, try to add without aerating the fluid. Pouring down the side of a funnel is better than pouring straight into the container as fluid picks up air during the splash. Hopefully doing it this way will prevent small new air bubbles from getting back into the lines when bleeding.

Next, after having one person pump the clutch pedal quickly 3 or 4 times & continuing to hold the pedal to the floor until you've completed this phase, instead of just releasing the pressure through the bleeder valve, also push on the clutch fork/rod to go ahead & force the fluid completely out of the slave cylinder, tighten the bleeder and have the assistant slowly pump the pedal to bring the slave cylinder back into contact to where it was before you pushed it to drain it. Refill & bleed as usual a couple of times. If you don't have a good clutch pedal now with good release, you need to check the Clutch Master Cyliinder since once the bleeding is done, this is a completely automatically adjusting system. good luck
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How do i bleed my brakes for my 1998 Ford Ranger? When i push the brake pedal it goes all the way to the floor.

First I would figure out why it needs to be bled, if it was leaking somewhere, or fluid low, new caliper, etc.

Brake bleeding is the procedure performed on hydraulic brake systems whereby the brake lines (the pipes and hoses containing the brake fluid) are purged of any air bubbles. This is necessary because, while the brake fluid is an incompressible liquid, air bubbles are compressible gas and their presence in the brake system greatly reduces the hydraulic pressure that can be developed within the system.

The process is performed by forcing clean, bubble-free brake fluid through the entire system from the master cylinder(s) to the calipers of disc brakes or the wheel cylinders of drum brakes). The brake bleeder is normally mounted at the highest point on each cylinder or caliper. Brake bleeding can be done easily by two persons working together and doesn't require much technical expertise besides a basic knowledge of brakes and car hydraulics. One wheel at a time, the brake bleeding valve for that wheel is opened while a drain hose is attached to that valve and immersed into a pool of brake fluid. The assistant then pumps the brake pedal. In this manner, fresh fluid is forced through the system into that wheel's caliper or wheel cylinder, and any old, dirty, water-saturated or bubble-entrained fluid is expelled from the system. When the fluid from the caliper or wheel cylinder runs clean, clear, and bubble-free, the brake bleeding valve is closed and the drain tube removed. The process is then repeated for the remaining wheels. During the entire process, the brake fluid reservoir must be kept full of fresh fluid lest new air bubbles be introduced into the brake system. (As found on Wikipedia)

It would be important to note that the person pumping the brake should press slowly and tell you when they are nearing the end of the pedal stroke to you can close the bleed valve before you **** air back into the system. REMEMBER to keep brake fluid in the reservoir at the master cylindermag-glass_10x10.gif.

Hope this helps. It's pretty easy and best done with 2 people, they hav vacuum bleeders which can be done with 1 person but the results are not consistant or perfect.
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Braking

take the top off the master cylinder and while someone is pushing the break pedal down, looks for bubbles coming up in the master. Master cylinder probably needs rebuilding or replacing.
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