No spark and everything seems good

Check there is a good spark from the ignition coil when the distributor is pulsed, if so check that the rotor is not earthing out on the distributor shaft. if no spark from the coil have it tested.

is the check engine light on. it sounds like a bad sensor crankshaft positioning sensor or camshaft positioning sensor will cause it not to start.

I guess you could have the ignition analyzed on an oscilloscope. Maybe a tech could see something then.
I always heard the only gap was the spark plug gap-the rotor has no gap-are you sure you got the correct rotor? And does it touch the top distributor cap coil wire tower?

Let us know. It is a mystery worthy of a solution.

If your tach does not work that is a symptom. Of course a timing light is most useful. If not you can coil wires (swap with known good wire) ; check ignitor,(swap trail/lead ignitor plugs at distributor) coil, check with ohm meter.
Trailing ignitors are very common failures, especially when either jump starting or being jump started when a battery is stone dead. What happens is there can be a huge power spike through the ignition system damaging the electronics in the ignitor. 90% of trailing ignitor failures happen during a jump start procedure.
At this age though, wires and coils can be suspect. My recommendation for ignition parts, Mazda Mitsubishi Cap/rotor and NGK wires and plugs. They are good enough for Mazda factory race teams and I have been using them since 72 with no ignition related failures in racing or all the street vehicles that have been maintained. Most critical is the fit of the rotor, it should be very hard to install, very tight fit. If loose the rotors have a tendency to rotate and move causing changes in timing and at worse damaging the cap and rotor.

the famous ignitor failure, but lets not condemd this device. The ignitor only generate current to the coil to collapse the magnetic flux that is built up. you may not have spark at the plugs but you need to know if you have spark at the coil, there are many times yes ignitor did solve the problem but the problem was the coil make it easy on youself open the distributor cap and have some one or you can do it. with the cap open remeber the position of the distributor rotor and crank the car,not to long is the rotor in the exact same position cause if it is it a timing belt.or that the rotor which is mounted in a fixed position may have spun allowing the shaft of the rotor to not move. disributor rotor do fail when the inner hold doent grip the shaft, and the cap yes it does fail its a carbon filled material and the do short out and so does the coil it short out internally then there is the ignition switch and yes it fails to provide power to the coil positive side.. Take this as a solution replace the ignitor, with a cap and rotor, and the coil it easier that way

cam position sensor?

remove distributor cap,check for moisture or poor condition of 'contacts' on rotor & inside cap.check for a clean connection at coil to distributor lead,check spark plug wires.

Find an inductive pickup indicator for spark. Place on distributor cap to see if spark is at coil internal tower. If no spark at internal tower, look at ignition module or pickup coil. Ignition modules are prone to failure on 626's. But if you have spark at tower but not at the wire end, then your rotor is gone.

I had the same problem recently but replacing the ignition Coil under the distributor (inside) solved the problem. Also replaced the distributor Cap and rotor at the same time.

check the ignition switch