1988 s-15 will only start and run, when driver side jacked up about 10 inches

Having a empty tank is real easy it is the ones half full that causes problems of balance But anyway jack car up and support then from drivers side remove the retaining screws around fuel cap and remove cap. then remove rock shield 8-10 bolts 13mm then access the filler pipe and vent loosen clamps these hoses are hard to free from tank.& on rear end side there are the pressure and return hose connectors squeeze clips and remove. With the jack and a small piece of plywood secured tightly to jack place against bottom of tank remove the 4 strap bolts 18mm slowly lower tank down 8 inches now reach on top of tank and remove 2 electrical connectors and vapor return line no clip just squeeze and pull. now as you lower the tank you will be fighting the filler &vapor hoses. But once out then this should have a snap ring holding assembly in tank. Blow dirt free then remove. To reassemble suggest coating inside of hoses with vasoline for easier install same with unit o-ring. A MUST examine the electrical plugs for burnt connections if so replace. Now put it back together.

• Car jack
• Jack stands
• Torque wrench
• Chain wrench
• 3/8 inch drive ratchet
• 1/2 inch drive ratchet
• 10 mm wrench
• 12 mm wrench
• 10 mm socket (3/8 inch)
• 14 mm socket (3/8 inch)
• 17 mm socket (1/2 inch)
• 19 mm socket (1/2 inch)
• Timing belt
• Balancer belt
• Bottle of Liquid Paper

Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Using a ½-inch-drive ratchet and the 19 mm socket, turn the center bolt on the crankshaft so that number-one cylinder piston is at top dead center (TDC). You will know you ware at TDC when the mark on the crank is in alignment with the arrow on the timing cover.

Disconnect the cruise control connector and remove the cruise control actuator. Loosen the upper mounting bolt with the 14 mm socket. Use a 12 mm socket to loosen the lower nut then use a 10 mm socket to loosen the adjuster from the power steering pump and remove the belt.

Loosen the upper air conditioner mounting bolt using the 14 mm socket. Use the 12 mm socket to loosen the lower nut and adjusting bolt on the alternator and remove the alternator/AC belt. Remove the valve cover using a 10 mm socket.

Place the jack behind the left front wheel where the arrow is located indicating the jack location, and raise the vehicle. Put the jack stand under the subframe behind the jack, then lower the jack. Remove the left front wheel for easy access to the crank pulley. Using a block of wood atop the jack, place the jack under the oil pan and lift with slight pressure to hold the engine in place. Remove the side engine mount using a 17 mm deep socket.

Take off the dipstick, pipe tube and upper timing cover using a 10 mm socket.
Then remove the timing belt adjuster rubber seal without loosening the adjuster nut. Take off the crankshaft pulley bolt. Use the chain wrench to hold the the crankshaft pulley while turning the crankshaft pulley bolt with a 19 mm socket. Use the 10 mm wrench and 10 mm socket to remove the bolts on the lower cover. Remove the lower cover and mark the location of the cam, crank and balancer shaft with Liquid Paper. Remove the balancer shaft belt and timing belt. Install the timing belt and the balancer shaft belt in the reverse order of removing them. During Installation of the crank pulley, coat the threads of the crank pulley bolt with engine oil and tighten it to 159 foot-pounds. Finally, adjust the tension of the power steering and alternator belts as well.

Hi, BMW's have a jacking point. If you are looking at the back wheel, look along the side skirts under the back passenger door. There will be a small disc with a horizontal hole. Use a screw driver to turn the disc until it comes out, that is your jacking point.

Place the jack's horizontal arm all the way into the jacking point and start to wind the jack handle. The car will then start to rise at the back. The same prinicple appplies for the front as well, the fronts jacking point is on the skirting under the front doors.

1. Place wheel chocks behind the passenger side wheels, and lift the driver side of the Blazer with a floor jack. Place jack stands under the frame, and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Supporting the truck with the jack stands in this manner prevents injuries that occur if the floor jack fails.
   
2. 2 Remove the fuel filler cap, and turn the ignition key to the off position. This relieves some of the fuel pressure on the system, and prevents the fuel pump from starting when the filter is removed.
   
3. 3 Locate the fuel filter on the driver side frame rail, just behind the front door. The filter is a cylindrical shaped part, about six inches long, that's in the fuel line on the inside of the frame rail.
   
4. 4 Place a drain pan under the filter to catch any fuel that spills. Loosen the filter fittings by using a 21mm wrench to hold the filter while turning the flare-type nut on the line with a 16mm wrench. Remove both sides of the fuel line from the filter and drain it into the drain pan.
   
5. 5 Check the rubber O-rings located on the fuel line ends for tears and nicks. Replace any O-ring seal that shows damage. These seals are available at your local auto parts store.
   
6. 6 Insert the fuel lines into the ends of the new filter, and thread the flare-nuts into the filter by hand. Be careful not to cross-thread them and cause the need for replacement fuel lines. Tighten both lines with the 21mm and 16mm wrenches.
   
7. 7 Raise the truck off the jack stands with the floor jack, and remove the stands from under the vehicle. Lower the Blazer to the ground. Reinstall the fuel filler cap.
   
8. 8 Turn the ignition key to the "Run" position--and then back to the off position--three times to prime the new filter. Each time the key is turned to the "Run" position, the on-board computer turns the fuel pump on and opens the injectors to add fuel for starting. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
   

Waterbed Pump Video Inst.


This has an electric fuel pump located in the gas tank.

To replace or check it you do one of 2 things. You can drop the tank or cut a hole in the cargo area to gain access as they are on the top of the tank.I would not suggest cutting hole

if anything is bending ,it probably isnt the frame you have the jack on (probably the rocker panel ),which will definately bend .the frame is further in under the vehicle ,but do make sure the jack you are using fits well on the frame .

In my raider to get to the jack I lift up on part of the seat you sit on Both sides rear passenger and rear driver seat lift up. :) hope this helps

place the jack on the pinch well about 6-10 inches away from tire,if you look at it there a notch to show you where to place the jack and also instructions on the spare cover depending on the year of the van it might be with the jack.

ex: front tire= right behind tire there is a lip of metal that sticks down and there is about a 3 to 4 inch part right behind the wheel that has been reinforced. Put your jack right there so the grove on the jack sits in it nicely. Before you jack up the car loosen the lug nuts a bit then lift the car and finish the job.

the starter is located under the intake. also the fact that the radio plays doesn't mean batt is good.

Did you pinch your gas line or break continuity in the fuel pump wiring? If it ran fine before, I would check your fuel line and wiring. Goes along the inside of the drivers side frame rail. YOu also could have jacked it up at the right angle where sentiment in the tank settled somewhere to where the fuel pump sucked it up. Make sure when you turn the key on, wait to turn the engine over and see if you hear the fuel pump purging the system.