At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It sounds like maybe your altrenator is bad. Before you spend the money on a new one make sure your battery posts are clean. If they are clean, take your truck to your local auto parts store (autozone or checkers) and they can diagnose your charging system. Your vehicle does not need a full 12 volts to run so it's not surprising it will still run for a while until the battery gets too low.
hi-
So, when you had the old battery in you could hear a click when you went to start it ?
question 1. "Did you test the old battery? " you can do this with a multimeter or you can remove the battery and test it at auto parts store for free. Checker, Autozone, pep boys, etc. If the battery is still good and just dead they will also charge it for free.
After you established that the battery is bad and won't take a charge buy a new one. Since you already bought a new one you'll need to establish that the new one is fully charged. Test it and if it's low have them charge it.
Now that we established it's not the battery...
There is a few things you can try.
1. make sure you battery connections are tight, if you can wiggle or move the connection this is too loose.
2. fuse box = just take 1 fuse out at a time and replace if blown
3. you can get a multimeter and test the positive battery cable at the starter ( just follow the positive cable + (red one)) just ground 1 probe of the multi meter any where you can on the frame and touch the other probe to the POS. hook up point on the starter. you should have 13 amp or so dc current. if you don't get 12+ amps you may have a loose connection or a corroded positive cable.
4. also a good indication of corroded cables is if you see a white powder where the cable and connector meet at the battery there is a good chance this is you problem. you can strip back the sheathing on the NEG cable and look to see if the cable looks white and powdery. good cables should be bare copper inside. if it's good then just use electrical tape and tape back up the sheath if bad replace the cable.
sorry if this seemed to basic if you already knew these things just didn't know what your skill level was.i hope this helped - GL
amber or a yellowish orange color is normal for a check engine light take it to a autozone or a checker oriely's auto parts store and they can run a diagnostic scan on it to tell you what error code is popping up it it is a really major problem the light will be flashing if it is get it checked out!!!
Didn't see that as the fix for the problem. My guess is tires out of balance or worn cv joints in front axles. Cheaper to replace axle half shafts than a single cv joint kit at discount auto supplies like checker,autozone,etc. Lastly, wheel hub bearing/s. A tire shop with a mechanic could tell you.
Is it the original battery? Time for a new one. Pull it out and take it to Napa/Autozone/Checker...... and have them check it - you will probably come home with a new battery.
Or it could be the starter. On some cars the starter is very easy to change - unplug it and remove two bolts. Other cars you may need to remove something like the air cleaner - so a few more bolts. Search the internet for details on your car. Checker/Autone stores can also check your starter for free.
Your alternator may be going out, have it bench tested at a Checker's or Autozone to see if it needs to be replaced. If it's bad which it probably is, replace it, if not you may have draw on the battery.
You need to check for a trouble code at a service location. autozone , Checker Auto, etc. It could be one of the sensors. the Crankshaft position sensor or Camshaft position sensor. There are several sensors that could cause this problem. getting a code will make it easier to troubleshoot.
it definitely the pump. you can get a new one from any Toyota dealer or you can buy one at a auto parts store (Checker, Autozone, etc.). you may have to pull the pulley off the old pump and reuse it, if so then i would take it to a shop. if the new pump comes with a pulley installed on the pump then it should be pretty easy, probably take a couple hours.
It sounds as if your alternator may have gone out. If you take the Yukon by an autoparts shop (Checker, Autozone, etc.), they can run a quick charging system test for you. Good luck!
×