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NEED TO PRESSURE BLEED FROM MASTER CYLINDER ! OR HAVE A HELPER PUSH ON BRAKE PEDAL WHEN YOU RELEASE BLEEDER VALVE @ EACH WHEEL, RR-1st, LR- 2nd, RF- 3rd, LF-4th. gravity doesn't cut it dude !
Yes, this is very normal. You'll replace the front 3 times before you'll have to replace the rears. The reason for this is because 80% of your braking is in the front. There is nothing wrong with your brake system.
You need a pullers to get it off.But if your lucky putting a screwdriver between the drum and back-plate and pize it when your hitting with a hammer it may come off.good luck.
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You need to manually adjust the brakes after putting new brake shoes on. The automatic adjuster has adjusted for wear in the old shoes which will make the new shoes too tight.
Brake linings that are worn to within 1/32 inch (0.79 mm) of a rivet
head or that have been contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil
must be replaced.
Potential brake shoe problems. Courtesy of
Wagner Brake Products.
Failure to replace worn linings results in a scored drum. When it is
necessary to replace brake shoes, they must also be replaced on the
wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle. Inspect brake shoes for
distortion, cracks, or looseness. If these conditions exist, the shoe
must be discarded.
Do not let brake fluid, oil, or grease touch the brake lining.
If a brake lining kit is used to replace the linings, follow the
instructions in the kit and install all the parts provided.
The two general methods of attaching the linings to the brake shoes
are bonding and riveting.
The bonded linings are fastened with a special adhesive to the shoe,
clamped in place, then cured in an oven. Instead of using an adhesive,
some linings are riveted to the shoe.
Riveted linings allow for better heat transfer than bonded linings.
Drum Shoe and Brake Installation
Before installing the shoes, be sure to sand or stone the inner edge
of the shoe to dress down any slight lining or metal nicks and burrs
that could interfere with the sliding upon the support pads.
A support (backing) plate must be tight on its mount and not bent.
Stone the shoe support pads brightly and dress down any burrs or grooves
that could cause the shoes to bind or hang up.
Using an approved lubricant, lightly coat the support pads and the
threads of servo star wheel adjusters. On rear axle parking brakes,
lubricate any point of potential binding in the linkage and the cable.
Do not lubricate nonservo brake adjusters other than to free a frozen
adjuster with penetrating oil.
The areas or pads where the brake show will
rub or contact the backing plate.
Reassemble the brakes in the reverse order of disassembly. Make sure
all parts are in their proper locations and that both brake shoes are
properly positioned in either end of the adjuster.
Also, both brake shoes should correctly engage the wheel cylinder
pushrods and parking brake links.
They should be centered on the backing plate. Parking brake links
and levers should be in place on the rear brakes.
With all of the parts in place, replace the brake drum.
Brake linings that are worn to within 1/32 inch (0.79 mm) of a rivet
head or that have been contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil
must be replaced.
Potential brake shoe problems. Courtesy of
Wagner Brake Products.
Failure to replace worn linings results in a scored drum. When it is
necessary to replace brake shoes, they must also be replaced on the
wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle. Inspect brake shoes for
distortion, cracks, or looseness. If these conditions exist, the shoe
must be discarded.
Do not let brake fluid, oil, or grease touch the brake lining.
If a brake lining kit is used to replace the linings, follow the
instructions in the kit and install all the parts provided.
The two general methods of attaching the linings to the brake shoes
are bonding and riveting.
The bonded linings are fastened with a special adhesive to the shoe,
clamped in place, then cured in an oven. Instead of using an adhesive,
some linings are riveted to the shoe.
Riveted linings allow for better heat transfer than bonded linings.
Drum Shoe and Brake Installation
Before installing the shoes, be sure to sand or stone the inner edge
of the shoe to dress down any slight lining or metal nicks and burrs
that could interfere with the sliding upon the support pads.
A support (backing) plate must be tight on its mount and not bent.
Stone the shoe support pads brightly and dress down any burrs or grooves
that could cause the shoes to bind or hang up.
Using an approved lubricant, lightly coat the support pads and the
threads of servo star wheel adjusters. On rear axle parking brakes,
lubricate any point of potential binding in the linkage and the cable.
Do not lubricate nonservo brake adjusters other than to free a frozen
adjuster with penetrating oil.
The areas or pads where the brake show will
rub or contact the backing plate.
Reassemble the brakes in the reverse order of disassembly. Make sure
all parts are in their proper locations and that both brake shoes are
properly positioned in either end of the adjuster.
Also, both brake shoes should correctly engage the wheel cylinder
pushrods and parking brake links.
They should be centered on the backing plate. Parking brake links
and levers should be in place on the rear brakes.
With all of the parts in place, replace the brake drum.
Brake linings that are worn to within 1/32 inch (0.79 mm) of a rivet head or that have been contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil must be replaced.
Potential brake shoe problems. Courtesy of Wagner Brake Products.
Failure to replace worn linings results in a scored drum. When it is necessary to replace brake shoes, they must also be replaced on the wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle. Inspect brake shoes for distortion, cracks, or looseness. If these conditions exist, the shoe must be discarded.
Do not let brake fluid, oil, or grease touch the brake lining.
If a brake lining kit is used to replace the linings, follow the instructions in the kit and install all the parts provided.
The two general methods of attaching the linings to the brake shoes are bonding and riveting.
The bonded linings are fastened with a special adhesive to the shoe, clamped in place, then cured in an oven. Instead of using an adhesive, some linings are riveted to the shoe.
Riveted linings allow for better heat transfer than bonded linings.
Drum Shoe and Brake Installation
Before installing the shoes, be sure to sand or stone the inner edge of the shoe to dress down any slight lining or metal nicks and burrs that could interfere with the sliding upon the support pads.
A support (backing) plate must be tight on its mount and not bent. Stone the shoe support pads brightly and dress down any burrs or grooves that could cause the shoes to bind or hang up.
Using an approved lubricant, lightly coat the support pads and the threads of servo star wheel adjusters. On rear axle parking brakes, lubricate any point of potential binding in the linkage and the cable. Do not lubricate nonservo brake adjusters other than to free a frozen adjuster with penetrating oil.
The areas or pads where the brake show will rub or contact the backing plate.
Reassemble the brakes in the reverse order of disassembly. Make sure all parts are in their proper locations and that both brake shoes are properly positioned in either end of the adjuster.
Also, both brake shoes should correctly engage the wheel cylinder pushrods and parking brake links.
They should be centered on the backing plate. Parking brake links and levers should be in place on the rear brakes.
With all of the parts in place, replace the brake drum.
Your problem would appear to be something amiss in the rear brake on the locked wheel. If a wheel sylinder was leaking the brake shoes would become "sticky" and cause the shoes to "lock on" to the drum. Or if the brake was out of adjustment, the assembly could come apart and pieces of it jamb the wheel. This problem is fairly common with drum brakes. You need to have the rear brakes serviced, & checked for fluid or grease on the braking surfaces. All leaks fixed, backing plates cleaned, the wheel cylinders overhauled, & the brake shoes replaced.
Are the brake shoes on right, there are two size shoes, One shoe has a longer brake lining then the other. The short brake lining is towards the front of the van and the longer brake lining is towards the rear. The rear brakes also may need to be adjusted, you can do that by going in revers in a empty parking lot and push the brakes as hard as you can to stop the van. Don't give your self a whip lash, just push down gradually and as far to the floor you can about 7 to 10 times. The self adjusters should adjust the brake on both sides, try this first before you take the brakes apart again. It may just need a adjustment and after that check the brake fluid in the master cylinder. Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted, be glad to help
Item
Part Number
Description
1
2069
Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin
2
—
Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt (2 Req'd)
3
—
Washer (2 Req'd)
4
—
Anchor Pin (Part of 2211)
5
—
Wheel Cylinder
6
2028
Brake Shoe Anchor Pin Guide Plate
7
2A637
Parking Brake Lever
8
2296
Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Short)
9
2296
Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Long)
10
2200
Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Secondary)
11
—
Washer
12
2106
Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer
13
—
Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide
14
2A642
Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link
15
2A601
Parking Brake Link Spring
16
2068
Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring
17
2A176
Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever
18
2048
Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Socket
19
2047
Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut
20
2041
Brake Adjusting Screw
21
2049
Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring
22
2200
Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Primary)
23
2A178
Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable
24
2211
Brake Backing Plate
Heavy Duty Rear Brake
Item
Part Number
Description
1
—
Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt
2
00538
Lock Nut
3
2212
Rear Brake Backing Plate
4
2262
Rear Wheel Cylinder
5
2A642
Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link
6
2A601
Parking Brake Link Spring
7
2A637
Parking Brake Lever
8
2106
Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer
9
—
Parking Brake Lever Bolt
10
—
Secondary Shoe Assembly
11
2A179
Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide
12
2068
Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring
13
—
Adjusting Lever Pin
14
—
Adjusting Lever Return Spring
15
2A176
Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever
16
2047
Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut
17
2049
Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring
18
2041
Brake Adjuster Screw
19
—
Primary Shoe Assembly
20
2068
Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring
21
2200
Rear Brake Shoe and Lining
22
2035
Brake Shoe Retracting Spring
23
2A178
Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable
24
2092
Brake Adjusting Hole Cover
25
2069
Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin
The rear drum brakes:
Have internal shoes that expand against the brake drum (1126).
Are a single-anchor type.
Are actuated by one rear wheel cylinder (2262).
Have two pistons in the rear wheel cylinder (2261). One exerts force against the upper end of the primary shoe; the other exerts force against the upper end of the secondary shoe.
Adjust rear brake shoes and linings (2200) automatically.
Need manual brake adjustment if the adjusters are not operating properly or after the rear brake shoes and linings have been replaced.
When the brake pedal is applied, hydraulic fluid pressure forces the pistons in the rear wheel cylinder outward, moving the rear brake shoes and linings against the brake drum.
The rear drum brake system includes the parking brake mechanism. Refer to Section 206-05 .
After removing tire pull bolts holding brake calipers to rotor. Use a clamp or something in that nature to push old brake shoe into housing that way you wont have to bleed your brake system. Replace new shoes and reinstall caliper. Start vehicle and pump up brakes before traveling make sure to test brakes first to make sure no fluid was lost.
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