The car starts easy when hot but when cold it takes long to start, what can be the course?

SOURCE: Audi 80e 1991 hard starting when cold

I've owned the same car. Check that the fuel relay 'primes' the system before you start the car. When you turn the key to the on position (all you dash lights, ready to start) you should hear the fuel pump run for a second or two. If it doesn't run you can replace the relay for about $30. If the relay is not the problem, it may be a check valve within the fuel line to the engine. This valve keeps fuel from draining back to the tank when the car is sitting. That way, there is fuel close to the motor when it's time to start. The temp senor was not a bad shot, they were thinking it was bad sensor not telling the cold start injector to run. Obviously not the case. However, the injector itself may be faulty in some way. As long as the car always starts, it's one of these problems, assuming the ignition system and engine mechanicals are in running order.  good luck. JK

SOURCE: the car is a 92

I don't know if this will help those b2600 owners, mine was a 92 automatic, it use to have all sorts of problems similar to like rough idling, stalling after it ran for a couple of minutes. Changed fuel pump and filter but did not help.Running out of idea so I removed the ECM (computer) and noticed a blown capacitor (ECM at passenger side kick panel). Goggled the ECM number and found out it is a common issue to that ECM built by Mitsubishi, common to Mazda and Mitsubishi cars and trucks on certain model years. Working fine now for almost a year after I sent it out for repair.

SOURCE: how can we check the ignitor and coil ? what are the specs?

What engine do you have? You could still hear your fuel pump running but if you haven't checked the fuel pressure you may still have a problem with your fuel pump. You should be around 38 to 44 PSI when key is turned on not running. Did you verify you are getting spark or is there nothing to the plugs? Your ignition coil resistance should be (cold 9000-15,400 ohms) Primary should be .36-.55.
Your pickup coil resistance depending whether you are California or excluding California
California is
cold- pick up coil terminals G1 & G- Ohms 125-200
cold-Pick up coil terminals G2 & G- Ohms 125-200
cold-Pick up Coil terminals NE & G- Ohms 155-250
Ex. California models
cold-Pick up coil terminals G+ & G- Ohms 185-275
Cold-Pick up coil terminals NE+ & NE- Ohms 370-550 ohms
You also need to check air gap between PIck-up Coil & Signal rotor
California is .008-.020
Except California .008-.016

Here are some of the suggestions from Mitchell books:
ENGINE CRANKS BUT FAILS TO START:
*Ensure proper spark exists from ignition system
*Ensure Fuel system performs properly (fuel pump, Fuel filter, Fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator).
*Check engine compression, valve clearance, valve timing and timing belt (if equipped)
Check airflow meter or MAP sensor and wiring
*Check idle air control valve (if equipped) and wiring.
*Check circuit opening relay and EFI main relay.
*Check STA signal at Engine Control Modual (ECM)
*Check Engine Control Modual (ECM) and wiring.

SOURCE: My hyundai is a '02 elantra. Turn the key and all

Check the starter relay.

Testimonial: "The starter relay was going to be my next purchase and you just confirmed it. I hope thats it. Thank you!"

SOURCE: car wont start when hot

I have a 95 that had the same problem. After the dealer replaced most of the engine, it turned out to be a Power train module relay that cost about seven dollars. Your problem might be different, but it seems the relays get hot and will have to cool down before they allow the engine to start.