I have replaced the computer, ingnition control mod. and fuel filter. The code read crank sensor, i replaced it , same problem. It will run fine then just quit, usually when i am coasting to a stop. I even tried another battery and cleaned all the terminals and Battery. Fuel pressure is 45 psi . Any help would be awsome!!!!
SOURCE: Buick Regal dying
You have a problem in the fuel pump relay circuit for sure then. I'm betting the relay, but it could be that dropping resistor.
SOURCE: My 95 Buick regal with 3.8 engine stalls while i am stopping.
Sounds like the EGR valve is bad.
SOURCE: how to remove headrest on 95 buick regal to
hold the release button in while pulling the head rest up,
SOURCE: replacing power steering pump in a 95 buick regal
i think you need to remove pully first it is a special puller gm has
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I got a new borg warner computer from the auto parts. and i had to use the old PROM chip. I followed the instructions that came with the comp. I just hooked it all up and ran it so it could learn the car. It ran better after that but still stalled and engine light kept comming on. I dont know what the multiple cycles is, i didnt do that but i disconnected the batt. when i changed it so it was erased and the engine light was off for about two days then started comming on again. After that , i changed the ignition module, it ran better but still had the same problems . I got the codes read at a shop , it read , crank/cam position sensor and also ignition module and also computer. The mech. told me the crank pos. sensor was the most likely so i changed it, it runs better and stalls less but still runs rough (bucks at cruse or partial throttle) still stalls at slow down for stop , i can hold my foot on the gas and the brake w/other foot and it will stall less at about a 1,000 rpm idle. Now the engine light is coming on again after being off for a while .Thanks for your help!!!!!
If it stalls under braking or sitting still with foot on the brake: make sure your check valve that plugs into the brake booster is not leaking. This will create a vac. leak when pedal is applied and cause this symptom. Otherwise, sounds like you need to have some real testing done, not just replacing the "most likely" part until someone guesses correctly. But sometimes luck wins out, by accident. Good luck in that case pal!
In order to get a good start on the diagnosis, which you have been at for awhile, tell me something:
1) What did you do when you replaced the computer?
2) DId you need to program it?
3) Have you cleared the code(s) or even scanned the new computer? Relearned through multiple cycles?
Any answers you can give to any above questions will help me.
Thanks, TT
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