When the pedal is depressed to floor clutch keeps turning the transmission and will not shift into gear or out. Replaced all of clutch assy. including pilot bearing. Orginal clutch had 50000 miles and was slipped when truck was new, ran orignal until now. Had flywheel resurfaced? Could this be problem? Thinking maybe slave cylinder is defected and not moving in far enough. Any advice or infomation on repair will be appreciated.
SOURCE: 1998/99 Dodge Dakota clutch and manual transmission problems
clutch needing replaced, very common on all manuals
pedal travel adjustment,yes
gear shift adjustment,no
SOURCE: 2002 dodge diesel 2500 5 Speed....... Clutch will
if master cylinder and slave cylinder.is good and have brake fluid is in system and no leaks.problem is in the clutch and pressure plate.
SOURCE: 1998 dodge dakota. i bought
U have air in the system. u will need to buy a MITYVAC brand vacuum clutch bleeder tool, it comes with full instructions and can be purchased at any good auto parts store like NAPA or CARQUEST AUTO PARTS. Please go to the link below and read the MITYVAC article on using a vacuum bleeder tool.
http://www.mityvac.com/pages/info_service_hcl.asp
SOURCE: We have an '01 Mazda
When it starts to slip again open up the bleeder screw on the clutch slave cylinder. If the slipping stops then the problem is with the clutch master cylinder. The fluid is not able to return to the reservoir as it expands with heat and is keeping pressure on the clutch. Replacement of the master cylinder would be the best option but first clean out the master cylinder and ensure that the fluid supply hole between the reservoir and cylinder is clear. Renew the piston and rubbers. Check for scoring in the cylinder bore and replace the whole cylinder if scoring is found. If a good cleaning of the master cylinder does not cure the problem a quick-fix on a shoestring budget repair is to fit spacer washers between the firewall and master cylinder or filing down the actuating rod to shorten its length by about 1mm although this is not recommended.
The only other problem I can imagine is that the clutch lever in the transmission is sticking on the guide, although this is highly unlikely.
SOURCE: I replaced the clutch disc,pressure plate and
You could have put the clutch plate in backwards.
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The ignition switch is turned to the RUN or the START position.
When the ignition switch is in the RUN or the START position, the current flows from the B/U Lamp fuse located in the underhood bussed electrical center (UBEC) through CKT 839 (PNK) to the park/neutral position switch. The park/neutral position switch also feeds the backup lamps portion of the switch. With the transmission in the PARK position, the current flows to the BTSI fuse located in the underhood bussed electrical center (UBEC) through CKT 275 (LT GRN). The current then flows to the TCC/stoplamp switch through CKT 584 (LT GRN/BLK). The current continues to the BTSI solenoid through CKT 1135 (DK GRN/WHT). The ground path is provided through CKT 1850 (BLK) to G207. When the brake pedal is depressed, the normally closed contacts in the TCC/stoplamp switch open and the current flow is interrupted. When the current flow is interrupted, the BTSI solenoid de-energizes. The transmission may then shift to another gear. When the transmission shifts to another gear (except PARK), the contacts in the park/neutral position switch open. This condition stops the current flow to energize the solenoid when the brake pedal releases.
Whic
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