Starter spins when started but will not connect with flywheel
I will turn the key and the starter will just click, bypassed the starter and it will just spin it will not connect with flywheel. ran fine until went to go to work then it happened, the starter would occationally hiss when started but thats it. its not the starter i replaced the starter and it did the same thing
Re: starter spins when started but will not connect with...
I think you should go for manual first after that it would be easy for you to solve your problem. I had visited this site past 2 months before for my vehicle and find it quite helpful may be you will also get something useful here Best Manuals
sounds like the batterys good. check the connections on the battery and the starter to make sure everything is tight and has good contact with each other. if that doesent help comment back
you can try bypassing it like this turn the key on then take a screwdriver and touch the 2 bolts on the starter try that or try changing the fender mounted starter selonoid
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When you first turn the key to"on" most starter posts pop out to engage into the flywheel gears. If you don't hear a click when turning the key to "on" re-check the wiring.
chech the voltage at the battery with the key off it should be 12.5 volts going to start it should drop down to 11.5v>10.5v-with the motor running it should be 14.2v-put on a charger overnight and check out in the a m- Denny
either the starter is not kicking out its gear to meet the flywheel or the flywheel has missing teeth. either way the next step is to remove the starter so it can be tested outside of the vehicle and the flywheel can be looked at through the hole where the starter sat.
If your 1983 Buick Regal has a good battery but makes a clicking noise and will not start, you should check and make sure its getting spark, check your starter, also check your battery connections, and the starter cables.------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Multi-cardiag M8
Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger). Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables). Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections). Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay). Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store). Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary). Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective). Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start. Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up). Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).
Hello,
First check your battery connections. After that check all other connections on the starter and alternator to insure that you have a uninterrupted power feed. A loose connection can make this sound. If all connections are solid and free of corrosion then sounds to me like the bendix on your starter is stuck or otherwise not engaging the flywheel. When you turn the key on your ignition the bendix on the starter pops out and spins the flywheel turning the vehicle over. If you put a new battery in your vehicle and the connections are all good then you will need to replace your starter.
Regards,
Tony
Hi, this is what you should do when your car won't start. Diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start. When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.
If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Check it out.....
Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger). Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables). Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections). Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay). Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store). Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary). Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective). Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start. Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up). Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger). Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables). Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections). Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay). Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store). Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary). Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective). Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start. Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up). Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).
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