Timming belt replacement Ford 2001 dual cam

FORD FIESTA ZETEC 1 4 TIMING BELT REPLACMENT part 1 FORD FIESTA 1 4 DURATEC TIMING BELT REPLACMENT pt2

Are you sure the belt tensioner spring is strong enough to keep the belt tight ?
You should have to move the tensioner to put the belt on, then it should keep the belt tight when you finish.

i do not know but give these websites a try www.alldatadiy.com and www.autozone.com if all fails top by your local library and get your hands on a Haynes auto repair manual for your car wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.

there isnt marks!the cam pulleys have do nothing with timing!remove the valve cover and see in the other end of the camshafts and find two eccentric cuts!turn the crankshaft to the top dead point on the cylinder 1 the two cuts must be in the same line on the upper or lower side.you need aspecial tool to lock the camshafts and another to lock the crankshaft!this is the timing procedure!now you can change anything you want!note!the cam pulleys are conejointed to the camshafts!no marks no pins no safe pins etc.isnt difficult but complicated simple!

Umm do you mean timing belt or drive belt?.. If its the drive belt then I recomend checking the belt tensioner. when they fail they are known to snap belts pretty fast.

Ther are none. It takes a tool to hold the cams in place while the valve cover is removed. Get a chilton book from the library.

yeah you can do it without the special tools, i work at a dealer and i dont even use the special tools,,,once you get the timing belt cover off,rotate the engine till all the timming marks line up,there are notches on the timing belt backing plate and they match the marks on the cam sprockets,now thew cam all the way to the left is 1 then 2 and 3 and 4 being all the way to the right becarefull the cams have more than one number on them so make sure the #1 on the #1 cam is up and #2 on 2 cam and so forth,otherwise you will bend the valves and ruin your engine,,,the crank sprocket has a mark on it as well as does the oil pump to line it up youll see it thru the passenger side tire well,,,then remove the 13mm nut from the tensioner,its the one all the way to the left under the cam sprocket #1,,and then remove the belt,,,now when u put the new belt on start atthe number 2 cam sprocket and put it on ,,there are no marks on belt to line up so its very important you have all marks on cams and crank lined up,,,then after its on #2 go around the upper tensioner pulley between #2 and #3 cam and make it tight and wrap it on #3 and the #4 sometimes u gotta move the cam a hair to get the teeth to line up on the belt so it goes on but it will all line up perfect in the end,then go around #1 make sure all cam are lined up and belt is tight,,you can not have it off even a tooth,,,then go around #4 to idler and around crank on right side and on left side go around crank too,now i usually use small vise grips with very light pressure to keep the belt on the cams,so they dont jump,,,then pull down on the right and turn crank front 2 teeth and put belt on crank and then put crank back to normal spot and then all you excess slack should be right where the tensioner is at the left that you took off before,keep all the slack there,,,,and the put the tensioner on while holding the belt tight and then use a allen wrench and 13mm wrench to adjust and tighten belt tensioner,,,,make sure all your marks line up,,, osometimes if you havent done this before it may be easier to have another set of hands to help you hold thingss

There is no room for error...... Zero clearance. If off one tooth it can and will bend valves. if you are one that just feels the need to get alittle dirty or just can't pay for the service, then get out your Haynes out and turn to .....Tune up, and look at replacing timming belt. Get a cam gear tool that locks them into place so as that they will not move when u have them lined up. make sure they are lined up with marks as said in book. then make sure crank as well as all marks are lined up acordingly. make sure belt marks are lined up with everything. i would reccomend using a volvo belt though cause it will have all the marks on it.However other company's make good quality belts also at a fraction of the price. So it is really up to you.
Good thing when doing timming belt is to also change out your timming belt tensioner. YES do this it will save you a engine in the long run. it is a moving part that will go bad, it will freeze up and snap timming belt. rip out teeth in thebelt and bend valves. So as a gen rule...When you change timming belt, Change belt tensioner at same time since you cant just change tensioner without changing or getting timming belt off. Remember to use your HAYNES. It is your friend and will save you money in the long run. Good luck... Hope this helps you.

your valve tiiming is way off. you didnt work counterclockwise installing the belt keeping it under tension. and pay close attention to cam positions the half moons face up pic here
now for the correct position of crank pulley






here is the full way to do it just make sure you start at crankshaft working counterclockwise keeping tension on belt as much as possible and when finished always turn engine 2 revolutions with a wrench on crankshaft bolt and double check the alignment before putting back together. but here is the link
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152801ecf2a

Probably the starter itself, or the starter solenoid on the side of the starter. Usually only available as one unit anyway for most vehicles. Make sure the starter motor connections are all tight before replacing it, wiring and retaining bolts, hopefully that's all it is. The other possibility is that the flywheel ring-gear could be damaged and not allowing the starter pinion gear to engage, in which case that would need to be replaced also, which involves removing the gearbox, so hope thats not the problem!

Hope this helps,
Mark.