Vehicle will start run for about 10 seconds and stop running set for a few minutes and does the same thing

What would cause 1995 Chevy blazer to run for 20 minutes ...

answers.angieslist.com > Auto > Auto Repair & Service

Mar 30, 2014 - For example, can you start the car cold, it will warm for 20 minutes, and shut ... While not a car, my Motorcycle (also fuel injected) would run for a little bit and shut off. The issue ... Answered 1 year ago by WoWHomeSolutions.

Car starts and it shuts off/loses power - CarGurus

www.cargurus.com > Questions > Audi > A4

CarGurusJun 20, 2013 - Car starts and it shuts off/loses power - I have a 2003 Audi A4 Turbo.93K on it. ... \n check out these few options 1. loose or faulty electrical connections at, .... After drying it for a few minutes and cleaning with a dry cotton cloth, I have ... you can't fill your car while its running the gas tank is a vacum while its ...

Car starts then dies in a few seconds - CarGurus

www.cargurus.com > Questions > Ford > Crown Victoria

CarGurusFeb 3, 2014 - Car was running fine, and then engine stops. ... 1 out of 1 people think this is helpful. ... my car will start run for a second an shut off . ... under load, dies,starts 15 minutes later, runs fine then stumbles and dies again 3 answers.

Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Questions - Engine Shutting off ...

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CarGurusMay 20, 2015 - Engine Shutting off after about 10-20 seconds on 2004 Silverado ...When the engine is hot, two things occur: (1) thermal effect on .... my 2000 chevy silverado just randomly die then it will start back up idle .... It will run fine for 15minutes. ... run down behind or beside the powersteering pump, that the car will ...

Check the alternator output while running.

FYI for anyone who finds this thread and is researching the same problem- Try this it fixed my problem. take off the AIC and spray it good with INTAKE CLEANER. do not use carb and choke cleaner, then put it back on. next take off the air intake hose. with someone in the vehicle to keep it running and to resart the motor when it dies, (which it will) spray an entire can of the INTAKE CLEANER into the intake with 10 second sprays. try spraying for 10 seconds , then start vehicle and it will prob die. thats ok. a few times with motor off have the person in the vehicle press the gas to open butterfly and spray a whole bunch. let it sit for 2 minutes then start again. repeat these steps untill the whole can is empty. next- THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT- put everything back together and disconnect the positive battery cable for 30 seconds. then put it back and get the motor running again. due to all the intake cleaner and the resetting of the computer it may take a few tries to get it running. once its running smooth take it for a drive and if you can go through a full cycle of driving conditions. example, stop and go , highway ect.. obviously im not responsible if it works or not but i messed with my truck for days untill i came across this advice and it cured my problem. hope it helps someone else.

Aftermarket Car Headlights

Hi Kathleen, I'm glad to help!

Kathleen, I can tell you this because I work at a dealer myself and through the years when a problem comes in like yours and we can't find anything wrong its because whatever is causing the issue is not setting a code. There is only a few things that can cause a problem like yours and not set a code. (1) Fuel pumps can cause intermittent problem but will never set a code. After running for a while they will simply stop working but then after sitting a while will cool down and work fine again. (2) Exhaust issues. After the exhaust system has a lot of years and miles on it, the debris inside it can restrict the air flow and in some cases cause the vehicle to die and run poorly after a restart, but after sitting awhile the debris falls back down and the vehicle runs fine again until it happens again. NOTE: I'm not saying that either of these is your problem BUT, you have to start somewhere. Your only other option would be to let it die until the check engine light come on and then you'll know for sure it has set a code. After it sets a code then the dealer should be able to find your problem. The problem is that if its one of the issues I mentioned it will never set a code. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Kathleen.

Here is the procedure for allowing system to run each of the separate mode tests.
EGR : Start engine and warm up completely. Make sure all electrical loads are off (A/C headlights, blower fan, and rear window defroster) Accelerate to between 49-57 mph and hold a very steady speed for 1 minute. Decelerate to a stop and turn off engine.
EVAP : Ensure Baro pressure is 21.3 inHg or higher, Intake air temp is 41-95 'F, Fuel tank level is between 25-75%, Battery voltage is 10.9-14.6 volts. Start engine and idle for more than 10 seconds then turn key to off. Leave vehicle to sit for 5 hours or more. Start engine and race to 3500 rpm to warm up completely the idle for more than 15 minutes. Accelerate and then drive vehicle at very steady speed between 40-50 mph for more than 5 minutes. Stop vehicle and turn key to off. Leave vehicle undisturbed for 20 minutes or more.
When I say steady speed in the above, try to keep dead on to a set speed to help ensure the test is run. Especially for the EGR as this is when the test will be performed and if speed/rpm is not very steady then test will not be performed. The Evap test will be ran during that final 20 minute or more sitting period (or should be anyway).

takes a long time to run the rediness test since there are 6 different tests to complete...

PROCEDURE 1
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SYSTEM LEAK MONITOR
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 30°C (75°F) or less (The engine is stopped before the test drive is started).
Atmospheric temperature: 5 - 30°C (41 - 113°F).
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Fuel remained in fuel tank: 30 - 50% is recommended.
Time required: 16 minutes or less after started the engine.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position. Well be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 89 km/h (55 mph) or more and travel for 16 minutes.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position.

PROCEDURE 2
FUEL TRIM MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 100°C (212°F) or less.
Atmospheric temperature: -10 - 60°C (14 - 140°F).
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 30 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 89 km/h (55 mph) or more and travel for 30 minutes.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 3
CATALYTIC CONVERTER MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Atmospheric temperature: -10°C (14°F) or more.
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Engine coolant temperature: Not set.
Time required: 16 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
Travel for 300 seconds or more while keeping the vehicle speed at 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
Decelerate until the vehicle speed is within 80 km/h (50 mph) or less.
While traveling at 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) for 10 minutes or more, fully close the throttle at least once in 2 minutes and decelerate for 10 seconds or more.
Do not repeat deceleration too often.
Vehicle speed may go below 56 km/h (35 mph) after the deceleration.
Stopping and braking are permitted. (If stopped or drive at 56 km/h (35 mph) or less for more than 5 minutes the monitoring may be stopped. In this case please restart monitoring from the beginning.)
After completing the above deceleration, bring the vehicle speed back to 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) and keep it in the range until starting the deceleration again.
Repeat the above deceleration at least 5 times.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 4
HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 100°C (212°F) or more.
Atmospheric temperature: -10°C - 60°C (14 - 140°F) or more.
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 16 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph).
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) and travel for 16 minutes or more.
Stopping and braking during this operation are permitted. Keep the accelerator opening degree constant for 1 minute or more after each acceleration.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 5
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) SYSTEM MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 100°C (212°F) or less.
Atmospheric temperature: 5 - 60°C (41 - 140°F).
A/C switch: OFF.
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 16 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph).
While traveling 16 minutes or more at 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) with engine speed 2,000 r/min or above, fully close the throttle at decelerate for 5 seconds or more until the engine speed reaches 1,000 r/min or under.
Do not repeat deceleration too often.
Stopping and braking are permitted (Rapid deceleration and sharp steering are not permitted).
After completing the deceleration, bring the vehicle speed back to 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) and keep it in the range until starting the deceleration again.
Repeat the above deceleration at least 8 times by fully closing the throttle valve.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 6
OTHER MONITOR (Main Components, Sensors & Switches, Wire Breakage & Short Circuit)
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature:
100°C (212°F) or less (Except engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
30°C (86°F) or less (Engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
Atmospheric temperature:
5°C (41°F) or more (Except engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
-10°C (14°F) or less (Engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 21 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 56 km/h (35 mph) or more.
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 56 km/h (35 mph) or more and travel for 16 minutes or more.
Return the vehicle to the shop.
After stopping the vehicle, continue idling for 5 minutes, and then turn the ignition switch to the "LOCK" (OFF) position. Moreover, the vehicle should be set to the following conditions for idling.
A/C switch: OFF
Lights and all accessories: OFF
Transmission: Neutral

i think the pipe from the pump to the sender outlet pipe in teh tank has perished

it is not how many miles but the type of driving.

here is a OBD2 drive cycle test.

Generic OBD II "Drive Cycle" Most OBD II ("On-Board Diagnostics II") diagnostic monitors will run at some time during normal operation of the vehicle.
However, to satisy all of the different Trip enable criteria and run all of the OBD II diagnostic monitors, the vehicle must be driven under a variety of conditions. The following drive cycle will (theoretically) allow all monitors to run on (??) vehicle. (Note: Drive cycle specifics vary by vehicle!)

1. Ensure that the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full.
2. Start cold (below 86°F /30°C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160° F (typically requires at least one minute; up to 3 minutes).
3. Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes.
4. Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
5. Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes.
6. Decelerate with using the brake [or the clutch!] by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.

the first suspect is the igniton switch. when this happens, take the ign key and just barlely turn it, either way, not enough to go off/on just a little tweak, it the lights come back on or flicker, that ign switch will need replacement.

It is your alternator by the sound of it.  You can jump start your car but without a working alternator, you car will not stay running.  Basically, the vehicle is running off of the battery only.  This is a good indication when your radio, lights, and all the 'extras' stop working.  Its a good point to pay attention to these things when you are driving too.  Its a little scary to have the vehicle just stop running when you are still driving!!   Have it towed in, don't try to drive it to a repair shop!